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I am having a helluva time getting the 3/4" heater hose connected to my water pump. is there a secret to getting it on? I have tried lightly heating it with a heat gun, "lubing" the nipple with coolant concentrate, etc. more than my fair share of cusswords have been dropped. I have pulled the alternator out to the side but I still cant get that 'ing hose on there!
A) That is brilliant! Going to do that!
b) I feel validated that some other folks had trouble with it.
c) 424K miles on your Cherokee! THAT is awesome. I hope it hasn't done its last mile.
Isn't it a 3/4 vs 5/8 hose? The 304 in my CJ there fits such type of hose, those are available molded with the two diameters...
I found it when having the same issue...
I can post the part number, if it is of interest, when I am home...
WJ Overland 4.7 HO, bright and friendly black, 2004
CJ7 304cui Quadratrac, firecracker red, 1979, all stock
ZJ Limited 5.2, black, 1998 (sold)
XJ Limited 4.0, dark green, 1997 (sold)
Hey rang-a-stang - Lutry is correct. The hose from the heater core to water pump is 3/4 and the other hose to the manifold is 5/8. Nothing special about the hose, just go get the correct size bulk heater hose from the auto parts store and you're in.
- John (aka JR)
78 Chief Dad bought new in Kenosha WI, 401, RV cam, Part time kit, Edelbrock+Holly 600, DUI, 3" Rancho, Skyjackers, Crossflow rad, Rust, rust, rust
78 J10 Bob's (Becca's) old J-Truck, Tired 360, Tired TH400, Tired QT, Just really tired, but keeps on runnin
Rang a stang, is not just you. Yeah, the 5/8 goes to the back of the manifold and the 3/4 guess to the water pump, but my old cast iron water pumps nipple is a bear too. Some silicone spray and a few curse words uttered through gritted teeth usually does the trick, as well as the blood offering from my knuckles when the hose clamp from the big hose gets me.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
Pot of very hot water, near boiling if you can get it.
After fighting hoses replacing a water pump and radiator in the parking lot of my apartment complex in the middle of winter with air temps in the teens and blowing sleet I learned that little trick. Run up to the apartment and get a pot of water on the stove, get it up to near boiling stick the hose end in, carry the pot with hose still in the water down to the car, immediately pull the hose out of the pot and work it onto the nipple. Work quick and you can put the other end of the hose in the still hot water and get it on as well. If you do not work fast enough a pot of water cools down quickly with below zero wind chill factors.
That was more than 20 years ago and now I have a heated garage, life is good.
1964 J-200 360/TH400/BW1339 - "Hodge" - as in Hodge Podge
GM FF 14 Bolt 4.56:1 Yukon Posi rear / GM D44 4.56:1 front
Looking for 8 lug H1's and 37"s
Mmm. Re the Continental part, I looked at my '82, and it appears to have two different sized outlets on the core. So it's a 3/4" hose all the way from the core to the water pump. The Continental part would work well if the outlets are different ODs.
Pretty sure my J10 has a Dorman size-adapting coupling in that line.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.