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We are in the process of buttoning up little details and have noticed that the clutch push rod has been welded twice on our 69 Gladiator project. I believe the tranny is a 14 or 15 bolted to a 232 . The PO bolted a 2" block behind the clutch pedal.So i am assuming the rod isn't right I know the clutch is almost brand new. I would like to make up a new rod but have idea what the original length was.
Stuka wrote:I have made the clutch rods on my J10 and Cherokee. I used 3/8" all thread with heims on each end so that there is some adjustment.
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I did the Heim joints on my J10 and CJ-6 too. I could write up the J10 clutch linkage upgrade if anyone is interested. No all-thread; use the original rods.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
The PO of my J10 was handy, but cheap. he drilled through the ball joints of the original rods and put bolts through the rod ends, where the ball joint was. This worked, but the Heim joints are smoother. Usually the joint of the rod that presses against the throwout arm wears out, and the rod by the bell housing falls off and often is lost.
I used two of the 60645K451 http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rod-ends/=tcl1em 7/16"-20 female rod ends. The material of the original rod is 7/16" diameter (CJs are 3/8"), so I ground off the orignal ends, shortened the rods a little to preserve the original length, threaded the end of the rods, and screwed on the new joints. I bought a 7/16"-20 die from Grainger locally for about $5. I did not replace the joint under the dash, since it seemed to be in good condition and does not suffer from the elements like the two joints down by the bellcrank. The threaded ends of the original joints are 3/8" diameter, so I had to enlarge the holes in the bellcrank arms slightly to accommodate the new 7/16" joints.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Our rod has a adjustable ball in the end that fits into the throwout bearing fork which is held in by spring tension. The other end has a loop. So I dont think two Heim joints will work.
69gladiator wrote:Our rod has a adjustable ball in the end that fits into the throwout bearing fork which is held in by spring tension. The other end has a loop. So I dont think two Heim joints will work.
Stuka is talking about the one from the pedal to the bell crank. He built his the same way I did mine
Thanks. Since the fork portion(outside) on the rod has been welded in two places, I am just not sure how long the original was. I would be most appreciative If anyone can give me an approx length.
Hey Stuka-Do have any idea why the PO bolted a 2" block to the floor under the clutch pedal ? Thats why I want to make sure I make the rod up the exact length. Something does not seem right.
Thanks so much for the photos. We have a 232. I did not crawl under the truck yet to compare the bell cranks. After looking at your linkage, I think the rod may be too long. Thus, necessitating the block under the pedal.
My son and I have made a spiffy new linkage rod, complete with a heim joint. We are having an issue trying to hold the ball bearing into the ball socket/stud behind the clutch fork. I was told to load it up with grease and the pressure of the fork and linkage will hold it in. It is very hard to fit my fingers in there. Forget installing the dust boot. Someone else told me that there is a loose coiled spring that holds the ball into the socket. If this spring exists, we don't have it. The TSM shows nothing useful. Would JB Weld be inappropriate? The fork would still swivel on the ball.