Brake conversion

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ArchitectJS
Posts: 293
Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2015 5:01 pm

Brake conversion

Post by ArchitectJS »

ok- im on a very slow rebuild of my jeep. Thinking about going over the brakes next.
Pretty sure i have the AMC 20 rear- this seems to jive with what i see in the FSM. Summit racing has the conversion kits to disc brakes for this axle type.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/mak ... conversion

1. Lots of talk about CJ, will this work for my Cherk?
2. Cherokee has 2-piece axle?
3. Do i want to do this conversion? Or, keep the drums? I will never go off-road. This jeep is a pris jeep, for occasional driving.
1982 Cherokee, base (Bumppo)
AMC 258 / A727 - AMC 20 / NP208
Holley Sniper with Hyperspark
3" Rough County Lift
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tedlovesjeeps71
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Re: Brake conversion

Post by tedlovesjeeps71 »

Unlike CJs, waggy rear drums are not undersized or problematic. For a stock waggy the only benefit I think you'd see is ease of servicing. If you don't work on your own Jeep then that's a moot point. May as well keep what you have and save the money.


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dodgerammit
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Location: Middle TN

Re: Brake conversion

Post by dodgerammit »

I have this page bookmarked for future reference. Maybe it'll benefit you: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=56862
84 Grand Waggy-Radio Flyer (Garnet Red/3M Ebony Metallic woodgrain, with honey interior) AMC 360 :cry: 2004 4.8LS/Advance Adapter/727/242 D44/AMC20 Serehill tailgate and headlight harnesses :fsj: Ongoing thread-viewtopic.php?t=11897

92 Wrangler Islander 4.0/32RH/231 D30/D35 RHD

prospector
Posts: 91
Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 9:40 am

Re: Brake conversion

Post by prospector »

tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:Unlike CJs, waggy rear drums are not undersized or problematic. For a stock waggy the only benefit I think you'd see is ease of servicing. If you don't work on your own Jeep then that's a moot point. May as well keep what you have and save the money.


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I completely agree, contrary to popular belief drums are efficient binders, (more efficient than disc brakes) but they do tend to fade when heated or when wet, and for an occasional driver stock brakes will be just fine. I always enjoyed rebuilding drum brakes, it's a sit-down job, nothing strenuous, complex enough to be a bit challenging but not hard to do at all. There are far worse ways to turn wrenches.

Topic author
ArchitectJS
Posts: 293
Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2015 5:01 pm

Re: Brake conversion

Post by ArchitectJS »

Thanks for the replies- that the kind of reply i was looking for.

Rock auto has a pile of drums. Any should work, except the Dana44, i presume. Anything i should replace at the same time? Wheel bearings?
1982 Cherokee, base (Bumppo)
AMC 258 / A727 - AMC 20 / NP208
Holley Sniper with Hyperspark
3" Rough County Lift

Charles Kline
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Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2015 8:00 am
Location: Golden, Co

Re: Brake conversion

Post by Charles Kline »

Step one is going out to your rig and looking at what you actually have. No book is going to tell you for sure.
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HeavyMetalThunder_81
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Location: Haze Gray

Re: Brake conversion

Post by HeavyMetalThunder_81 »

I can't get your link to work but a disc brake kit for a CJ will not work with your Cherokee as your Cherokee has one piece 6 lug axle shafts. The AMC 20 found in FSJs (also known as the M23) is quite different than the CJ and AMC car axles.
-Jonny B.
1979 Cherokee Golden Eagle - UNDER CONSTRUCTION
7" lift, 35x12.5x15
AMC 401 - Pro-FLo 4 FI
NV4500/NWFBB/NP205 - Triple Stick'd
F D44 - 4.10, Eaton E-Locker
R M23 - 4.10, Detroit Locker

1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
1979 Wagoneer - Sold
1981 Cherokee Chief - Cubed

prospector
Posts: 91
Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 9:40 am

Re: Brake conversion

Post by prospector »

Charles Kline wrote:Step one is going out to your rig and looking at what you actually have. No book is going to tell you for sure.
Absolutely right. If you have another car then you can pull the rear brakes on the chero apart and take a drum, and a shoe with you to a parts store for exact replacement parts, or use rockauto and hope they get it right.

A full brake repair kit is a good idea and isn't expensive, it should include new springs, nails and keepers, one set for each wheel.

Also I'd get new reverse adjuster cables, pay close attention to how these are installed, make sure you get the new ones installed correctly. Inspect the star-wheel adjusters, if the little star teeth are worn, it'd be good to replace them too, otherwise the reverse adjuster cables won't be able to keep the rear brakes adjusted properly.

New drums and shoes, and you'll need a couple of cans (at least) of Brake-Kleen, and a bunch of rags to clean up the mess.

And if you don't have the proper brake tools now would be a good time to get them, they're cheap and make life SO much easier when installing the return springs.

Inspect the wheel cylinders for any sign of leaking, hopefully they'll be good, or you'll be buying new ones and bleeding the brakes, may as well buy brake fluid too.

Finally, if the backing plates don't have the brake adjusting slots plugged, buy new plugs, they keep the brakes from being swamped when driving in water, and will keep the brakes from rusting out.

Topic author
ArchitectJS
Posts: 293
Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2015 5:01 pm

Re: Brake conversion

Post by ArchitectJS »

Thanks, prospector.
1982 Cherokee, base (Bumppo)
AMC 258 / A727 - AMC 20 / NP208
Holley Sniper with Hyperspark
3" Rough County Lift
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jpswapmohn
Posts: 657
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:08 pm
Location: CO

Re: Brake conversion

Post by jpswapmohn »

Timely.. I have a 77 J10 with D44's, so maybe a little easier on the parts department. Noticed the drivers rear was wet when i went out to it on Saturday morning. A trip to O'reilly's and i had new cylinders, hardware kit and pads for both sides. Took about 3 hours this morning to redo both sides and bleed all 4. Stops much better now.
I don't recall exact price, but with a couple of cans of brake cleaner and mil discount, I was under $75. Figured if i was going to do one, might as redo it all while I was at it. Not a tough job at all, done in the driveway with a jack stand and a jack.

I think the wheel cylinders were $8.50 each.
One day I will wake up and realize that my jeep is complete...one day, I just know it.
88Wag, LT1/4L60E/NP242, J20 axles, etc. http://imgbox.com/g/rNuIasKYrS
95YJ, STaK, D44's, SOA, ARB's, Bilstein 5150s, 35" KM2's
50 CJ3A
77 J-10 (sold)

prospector
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Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 9:40 am

Re: Brake conversion

Post by prospector »

ArchitectJS wrote:Thanks, prospector.
:-bd :fsj:
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derf
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Re: Brake conversion

Post by derf »

ArchitectJS wrote:ok- im on a very slow rebuild of my jeep. Thinking about going over the brakes next.
Pretty sure i have the AMC 20 rear- this seems to jive with what i see in the FSM. Summit racing has the conversion kits to disc brakes for this axle type.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/mak ... conversion

1. Lots of talk about CJ, will this work for my Cherk?
2. Cherokee has 2-piece axle?
3. Do i want to do this conversion? Or, keep the drums? I will never go off-road. This jeep is a pris jeep, for occasional driving.
1. Kits for the CJ won't work on a stock full size Cherokee. The bolt pattern for the hubs is wrong and the rotors won't fit.
2. From the factory, the full size Jeeps had "1 piece" axles which were the 2 piece but welded together.
3. Whether to do it or not is up to you. Drums, when properly maintained, are fine for daily driving. Discs are easier to maintain and stay in adjustment better over the long term. Discs also provide better resistance to fading.

I built my J10 to tow with and went with the disc brakes for the fade resistance trying to control and stop heavy loads. I built my XJ and stuck with the drums because they're fine for daily driving and moderate off roading.

If you're really wanting disc brakes, you can find kits that are full size Jeep specific from some vendors like this: http://www.bjsoffroad.com/Rear-Disc-Bra ... p_318.html
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