Need pics of your Webber Throttle Linkage

[Nutz-n-Bolts]

I was hoping someone could share a picture or their set up. When I got my 81 J10 with 258 it had a VERY improvised cable set up on it. This constituted using the corner of an aluminum framing square to create a bracket that bolted to the intake cover. This had a piece of bent brake line JB welded in place in a hole drilled in the "bracket" to turn the cable routed through it 90 deg. toward the carb. The final touch was the cable being tied into a brillo pad like knot to the arm on the crab. Needless to say this arrangement is not up to current restoration standards and I'd like to invest some time and cash into making a professional looking and properly functioning assembly.

Does every one use the stock throttle cable?

I've read about an adaption kit, but I'm not sure if mine has the appropriate part on the carb or not. Also maybe there is more than just what gets bolted to the carb?

Pointers would be much appreciated, and the bracket that is there now is so cool I'll promise to post a pic when I get home tonight.

[Stuka]

I can take photos tonight. I am using the stock throttle cable with the weber provided linkage adapter.

[Nutz-n-Bolts]

Here it is, I pulled out the brake line sleeve with the cable, so it's just the bracket. Poor carpenters square.

[Stuka]

Uhg. Didn't have a chance to grab photos when I got home. But will tomorrow.


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[Stuka]

So here are some photos, I realize they are a bit on the large side. But wanted them to have detail so you could see. The throttle cable goes to its factory location, which connects to a pivot down below to reverse the direction of the movement.

Note to self, the back half of the intake REALLY needs to be cleaned to match the front half.

[Nutz-n-Bolts]

Wow, so I guess I can start by spinning my carb around 180 degrees. Then I guess I'll be ordering those brackets and rods, because I have none of that stuff. I like this set up better because it hides all that stuff below and behind the carb. Thanks for all the pics Stuka! Makes things so much easier. I don't know what we'd all do without you.

[jaber]

I don't know what we'd all do without you.

Fumble around like Ford or Chevy owners...

[Nutz-n-Bolts]

After staring at Stuka's pictures for a wile, and a lot of studying the Webber site, I think I have found that a standard vehicle doesn't need all that linkage. I think it's only needed if you have an automatic trans. This way it lets things use the stock trans kick down system and incorporates the new carb. While looking at Webber's site they show a bracket that made total sense in the photo of the stock kit. They mention the linkage kit in Stuka's photos as needed only when it's an automatic vehicle. Sooo, I made my version of the missing bracket:



Viola! It Works!


Stuka, Was your J10 an automatic at some point? Or did your motor come from an auto donor?

Hope this helps the next guy that is as confused as I was....

[Stuka]

Factory T176. Every. 81+ 258 equipped FSJ that I have seen uses the same linkage. But your setup should work fine. Just be sure it's lubed well (graphite or the like) due to that S turn.


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[haminawag]

Yup, I'm with Stuka on that last entry, that S-turn looks pretty tight, be sure you have a throttle return spring that's got some umph, as well as the graphite lube too.

[Nutz-n-Bolts]

X3 For that concern on my part. After I bent it to that position the cable still seemed to move pretty freely. Right now it is working without any return spring at all, but I'm defiantly going to add one for a bit extra help. I'll see how it rides and if it starts to fail I guess I'll find the stock cable bracket and buy the conversion kit from Webber. Look for me to resurrect this thread in about a year to report back.

Kind of a separate question but related to the addition of the return spring, Will the motor vacuum tend to keep the butterfly open/closed or is it neutral

[Stuka]

Should be mostly neutral. It will be trying to close one half of the butterfly while simultaneously trying to open the other half. But they also depends on far it is open.

If its 100% open, it may stay open provided there is enough air velocity to do so. If its nearly closed, it may stay that way.

This of course assumes there are zero springs involved. The carb has a return spring built into both butterflies, so the above is really not real world.

[Nutz-n-Bolts]

Thanks, I guess the reason behind my question was so that I can pick a spring that will be strong enough but not overly strong that would cause premature wear of moving parts because of extra tension in the mechanism. I tend to over analyze sometimes.

[VOX]

Thanks, I guess the reason behind my question was so that I can pick a spring that will be strong enough but not overly strong that would cause premature wear of moving parts because of extra tension in the mechanism. I tend to over analyze sometimes.

nothing wrong with over analyzing, 'cept it slows you down a bit. you're solution is a lot neater looking and simpler than using all the bellcranks and things, is it still working out alright?? Hope so.

[Nutz-n-Bolts]

Hey Keith, Realistically I'm looking at two more month's before its inspectable, so I'll have to post back after some use. The cable does seem to move pretty easy in the housing. Maybe only slightly more effort than when straight.