Manual hub installation help

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cpfeifffer
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Manual hub installation help

Post by cpfeifffer »

I have a 78 Cherokee. I am trying to install Warn locking hubs and can’t seem to get the hub in far enough to insert the wire keeper ring. I have checked to make sure the nub on the nut is properly aligned with the lock ring and that the races are fully seated. What am I missing? What else do I need to look at?


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1978 Cherokee Chief
5.3L L33, 4L60E, Atlas II 5.0
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jsinajeep
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Re: Manual hub installation help

Post by jsinajeep »

Your axle is sliding back in on you. If there is a hole in the front of the axle with thread
put a bolt in it and pull the axle back out and hold it while putting the ring on.
If you are still running the stock QT t-case you will ruin it unless you leave it lock in all the time.
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Cecil14
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Re: Manual hub installation help

Post by Cecil14 »

You can also push the axle shaft out at the u-joint.

aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank

Topic author
cpfeifffer
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Re: Manual hub installation help

Post by cpfeifffer »

I am unable to put on the retaining ring or the lock ring, even if I push the axle forward.

Image


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tgreese
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Re: Manual hub installation help

Post by tgreese »

Usually these axles have a 7/16"-24 (NF) threaded hole in the end. Put a bolt in and pull strongly, and the groove should be exposed.
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derf
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Re: Manual hub installation help

Post by derf »

Just to be sure, I'm going to go through the "you probably did it but just in case, it doesn't hurt to double check" questions:
  1. Did you replace the bearing races and if so, did you make sure they are fully seated?
  2. You did use the correct bearings for your application?
  3. You tightened the inner lock nut with the pin facing away from the bearing?
  4. You fully tightened the inner lock nut and torqued it to 50 ft-lbs while spinning the rotor to make sure it's fully seated?
  5. You backed off the inner lock nut 1/8 of a turn after torquing it to 50 ft-lbs?
  6. You got the lock ring to line up with the pin so it seats fully flat against the inner lock ring and isn't standing off at all?
  7. You checked it with your fingers to make 100% sure?
  8. You tightened the outer lock nut (the one without the pin) to 50 ft-lbs?
  9. You triple checked that the stack of lock nuts with ring are fully flat against each other and the bearing?
  10. If you didn't replace the bearings, did you make sure you pulled out everything down to, but not including, the outer lock nut?
Not being able to seat the hub means the outer lock nut is sticking out too far or there's something in there that shouldn't be there. If the lock nut is out too far, it wasn't put together right. Either wrong parts or improper procedure during assembly. Something in there that shouldn't be is just a matter of pulling it out.

Topic author
cpfeifffer
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Re: Manual hub installation help

Post by cpfeifffer »

I really appreciate the help. I am new to the FSJ world and so I ordered a lot of these parts from BJ's Offroad to take advantage of their expertise.

To your questions:
1. Yes, I did replace the races and they are fully seated. Timken JLM104910 for the inner races and LM501310 for the outer race.
2. Inner Bearing - Timken LM104949 and Outer Bearing LM501349, as sent from BJ's. Where is a good place to check to see if these are the right ones?
3. Pin, yes facing out.
4. Yes, with a torque wrench.
5. No, because the TSM didn't advise this. I will try this, but moving the lock nut out isn't really going to help me, right?
6. Yes, the pin went into the hole on the lock ring and I checked to make sure it wasn't pivoting on the pin.
7. Yes sir.
8. Yes, with a torque wrench.
9. As much as I can, yes.
10. Bearings were replaced.

The only thing that I did differently was that I used the hub from BJ's that didn't have the rotor attached:
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/Forged-Dana-4 ... _1939.html

I liked the idea of being able to replace just the rotor the next time I needed to do the brakes. I hope this isn't where I went wrong.

I am going to try to pull it out with the 7/16" bolt later tonight.
1978 Cherokee Chief
5.3L L33, 4L60E, Atlas II 5.0

rocklaurence
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Re: Manual hub installation help

Post by rocklaurence »

Pull the hub off and see if the lock will seat deep enough to seat the ring. That way if it sets deep enough when its not on the spindle you can look to the bearing nuts and washers.

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cpfeifffer
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Re: Manual hub installation help

Post by cpfeifffer »

Based on rocklaurence’s recommendation, I pulled off the hub and tried it out. I wanted to make sure the spindle and/or nuts were not interfering. It still didn’t fit.

I also tried it on the old OEM hubs and it didn’t fit either. I have reached to Warn to see what they can do for me.

Frustrating when a part that should bolt on doesn’t.

Thanks for everyone’s help. I’ll let you know what Warn says.


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Stuka
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Re: Manual hub installation help

Post by Stuka »

If the old hub doesn't fit, something is up. This is the hub you had just pulled out right? Nothing else changed?
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Cecil14
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Re: Manual hub installation help

Post by Cecil14 »

If you are having problems with the hub you got from BJs, I would contact them and not Warn, since that is not an OEM or OEM replacement part. I do not, personally, see any benefit to the BJs hubs...stock hubs have never really been a weakness that I've seen? Do you not still have to press the studs through the hub and rotor with those BJs hubs, or are they designed for a slip fit rotor not mentioned on the page? If pressed, then again I see no advantage to those over stock...and the price...ouch.


aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank

Topic author
cpfeifffer
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Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2018 6:03 am

Re: Manual hub installation help

Post by cpfeifffer »

The Warn hub lock doesn't fit the original hub or the new hub from BJ's. I think it is an issue with the hub lock, not the hubs.

I contacted Warn's technical support. After sending pictures back and forth, they told me this:

So I have only seen that a couple times ever and usually it’s if they have an after market hub/brake rotor which being 40yrs old there’s a good chance it’s the case. But the short answer is our hub body will be too thick. Unfortunately there is no solution other than switching over the SuperWinch hubs as they use a thin body hub.

Has anyone ever seen this before?
1978 Cherokee Chief
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Stuka
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Re: Manual hub installation help

Post by Stuka »

Ahh, did you replace the brake rotors at this same time? That wasn't mentioned in your post.

A thicker disc could certainly cause this issue as it would push the bub out. If this is the case, you can either try to find another rotor, or have the ones you have now machined down. Would not cost much to have a machine shop knock some material off. But you would need to determine how much to knock off.

PS: Its good to see Warn's tech support still has knowledgeable Jeep guys there.
2017 JKU Rubicon
Pevious Jeeps: 1981 J10, 1975 Cherokee, 2008 JK, 2005 KJ, 1989 XJ
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