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Why do you need them? Did you install longer shackles or something? The degree shims will help get caster back, but handling will still not be great as the longer shackle will allow the axle to move side to side more.
The way I've installed these is to put the spring center bolt through the spring and the caster wedge. The wedges I used were made by a machinist-member on earlycj5.com, and they are made so the bolt goes through them, not the center pin. You want steel wedges, not aluminum. NAPA has replacement bolts, and you can get them on-line too.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
steering wanders badly, no lift all original except for RHD. Steel wedges not available unless custom made, aluminium ones everywhere so if this works I'll get steel ones made up seen some US manufacturers advertise these . The wedge I have is about 6mm thick where the pin will be so would there be still enough bight left on the pin to do a test drive. Thanks for the replies
After being down this same road, you most likely have something else going on, and the increased caster won't help. On mine it was overly stiff ball joints... Make sure everything else is right, because you really shouldn't need wedges with stock springs/shackles. Have you had an alignment check? Whats your current caster?
Was also told something like -if it drives good in reverse at speed it needs more positive caster- probably got it mixed up but something like that, is this correct or close to it ?
Have heard that in most cases that the wedge will mask a underlying problem & the real cause should be addressed but thinking RHD might be it so just have to do trial & error. Had it checked for alignment & told all good dont know any of the figures though.
The alignment shop can give you a printout from the alignment machine. The Jeep should drive fine with factory springs and factory shackles, if all the rest of the steering and suspension parts are in good condition.
There is a difference between too little caster and a worn-out steering or suspension. Increasing the caster will make the steering come back to center by itself more forcefully, but it won't change the steering accuracy. If the steering is sloppy, the Jeep will choose its own path unless you correct it.
Lie under the Jeep and have a helper turn the steering back and forth slowly. Look for worn parts that allow movement, like the steering gear, ball joints, tie rod ends and spring bushings.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I'm with everyone else here, if your truck original, or at least older, parts down on the suspension and steering it's likely your issues lie in age/use related wear and tear. Ball joints and bushings don't last forever.
DARREN LILLY wrote:steering wanders badly, no lift all original except for RHD. Steel wedges not available unless custom made, aluminium ones everywhere so if this works I'll get steel ones made up seen some US manufacturers advertise these . The wedge I have is about 6mm thick where the pin will be so would there be still enough bight left on the pin to do a test drive. Thanks for the replies
I bought my steel wedges from WFO concepts if I recall. Everything I have ordered from them so far was top notch. I removed a leaf when I installed them and reused my center bolts. The front packs on mine are 9 leaf so I figured removing one wouldn't hurt, which it didn't