'83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

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Atla
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Atla »

Pictures.

HEI

Image
Image

Needs to be brushed off.

Rhino Grill.

Before.
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After 'tin foil' buffing.
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Still needs a little work.

Mystery part. This was mounted between the Trans Rubber Mount and the Trans.
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Dunno if this is needed back on or not. It looked like it had been hacked off for the running of the exhaust pipe.

And, a couple diagrams of Vac Hose Routing... that I need to replace all of that as a proactive measure.

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And... info.

Image
~Atla. (I'm just here for the pictures)
1983 J-10
2001 TJ

My Build Thread - http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2722
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jaber
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by jaber »

The part of the tranny mount you removed needs to go back on. The stud and bushings still on it keep the torque of the engine from ripping out the trans mount. The hacked end had 2 holes in it for an exhaust clamp that kept the pipe steady. ;)
Jeff

'46 cj3a
'51 Willys p/u
'51 Willys Parkway Conversion
'74 CJ5
'75 J-20 Wrecker
'75 J-20 Cummins service truck
'77 J-10 p/u
'79 Cherokee
'88 Grand Wagoneer
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Atla
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Atla »

Awesome thanks, I forgot about this piece when I reinstalled my trans/transfer case.

The exhaust is pretty long, I doubt I could buy another one of these. If anyone has a pic I can use to have this one fabbed up - share away please.
~Atla. (I'm just here for the pictures)
1983 J-10
2001 TJ

My Build Thread - http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2722
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Nutz-n-Bolts
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Nutz-n-Bolts »

Hey Bud, Here ya go. There are two rubber stops that when slipped over the special stud form a "hourglass" shape to let that bar move up and down with limits as the engine/trany assembly twists. That stud and rubber stop set up is standard on most FSJ's and CJ's, so you can get it from any Jeep outfit. On the right side you can see how the channel bends up and then actually has the cut outs for the exhaust to sit in. The there are just two holes in the center-line of the channel for a U bolt to slip through. Your trucks looking Great! I love those mirrors. I'm trying to find a set like that for mine.

Image
Lover of all Old Iron

60-79 CJ5 The best parts from several years combined to make one tough ALL JEEP CJ
81 J10 Pickup My newest acquisition undergoing a complete restoration
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Atla
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Atla »

Ahhh, good picture. Thank you both!

Guess I'll be dropping my trans bar again and installing that piece back in.

My 'test piece' that I sent out to be powdercoated came back yesterday. All I see from this company is their 'industrial' type powdercoating that goes onto cast iron. So I wanted to send a 'non critical' piece out and see what it looked like coming back. I'm very happy with the result.

This is the hood release assembly from the J2000 I found.

Before:
Image
Image


After:
Image
Image

So pretty.

And of course, after smacking my head repeatedly on the hood latch assembly 'hook' on the driver side while working under the hood(thanks for the bloodshed!) - I had decided to go with hood latches instead.

Leaning towards the older M715/CJ/etc type.
Image

It's pretty nice out, so hoping to get some work done today. We will see.
~Atla. (I'm just here for the pictures)
1983 J-10
2001 TJ

My Build Thread - http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2722
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Atla
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Atla »

So, that AMC 20... :banghead:

Stripped a couple of those horrid Torx bolts on the Diff Cover. Tried to remove the Pinion Nut to replace the seal. With the axle on the truck, I was hoping the weight of the truck would keep the tires/pinion from turning while I try to get the nut off. That might have worked, except I have such a small area under the truck to turn a breaker bar that the tires will rotate just a little and my bar won't budge the nut. (I need an Impact...)

Hello PITA.

Debating if I want to go ahead and pull the axle off and drop it off at a shop. Should be a pretty cheap and quick job.

Also considering if I want to yank the D60 out of that J200 I found and do a rebuild with disc brakes.. :-bd

I'm going to overhaul the brakes on this AMC 20 anyways.

This will take some more investigating, I'm going to take a closer look at that D60 and check the gear ratio and if it has a limited slip or not. It's going to be a nightmare to pull, it's in a very bad spot on the side of a muddy hill.

Oh look - some pictures:

Plugs? It looks like the PCV Valve is still attached at the front... Maybe some weird aftermarket cover?
Image

Here is the sticker, it looks like the rear missing plug is supposed to go into the stock air intake. But what is the other front plug?
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This:
Image

Leads to this:
Image

Still not bad: ;)
Image
~Atla. (I'm just here for the pictures)
1983 J-10
2001 TJ

My Build Thread - http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2722
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Cecil14
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Cecil14 »

That's a stock valve cover, someone just got tired of it leaking and attempted to "fix" it by using those giant washers. Do yourself a big favor and find a good aluminum one. Better yet find yourself a good 4.0L head to swap in, that'll come with a nice aluminum cover. :)

And personally....don't put hood latches on it. lol The hook can suck at times, but the security of an interior hood release is a good thing. You can keep it with a rhino grille, I did.

Couple other thoughts:

When you install the fuel filter near the carb, make sure the return nipple is on top, ie: the 12 o'clock position. You want fuel vapor and EXTRA fuel to go back to the tank after it gets to the carb, not before.

For the pinion nut get yourself a large pipe wrench and put it around the pinion. The square jaw of the pipe wrench fits very well there, and you will be able to brace it against the garage floor. Might need to stick a small pipe on the handle to make it long enough, but it works very well when you don't have an impact wrench.


aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
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Atla
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Atla »

I actually have a 4.0 head off my 2001 TJ, I forgot all about it. It's at my buddies house where we did the engine swap.

I'll need to get it decked and checked, I had a blown head gasket previously. Is it a direct swap? I had read that the newer 4.0 heads change the airflow and is supposed to be a significant improvement.

I'm just not sure how I mount a carb onto a head set up for EFI... I'll have to do some digging into that.

I'm used to side latches with my TJ, but living in a crappy area where we have a lot of foot traffic within 20 feet of the vehicles being parked - I've worried a lot about some ass unhooking them. Bad things happen to unhooked hoods at 80mph on the Interstate...

I guess I can just designate a piece of styrofoam to stick on the hook whenever I work in the bay. :)

Here is how the fuel filter is set up currently:

Image

And bonus points to anyone who knows what those loose wires in my hand are for. Apparently, nothing REALLY important as it runs.

GREAT Idea on the pipe wrench!
~Atla. (I'm just here for the pictures)
1983 J-10
2001 TJ

My Build Thread - http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2722
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Cecil14
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Cecil14 »

Carb'd 4.0l details

Fitting the 258 intake is very straightforward, simply grind a small bit in the metal under the locating pin holes then set the intake on top of the pins instead of over them. Grind small amounts at a time and check, you don't want to take away too much metal.

The 4.0l is a HUGE improvement over the 258 head, 30 years of fluid dynamics ahead. You will also need the 4.0l exhaust manifold if you swap to the 4.0l head. There are details all over the internet about the swap...I believe you have to block off the outer water jackets on the 4.0l before you bolt it on. I would compare the two heads and head gaskets before you make any permanent changes, though.

As for the wires? The first things that jump to mind are:

electric choke
BBD computer control
heating element under the intake

Can't say for sure as it's been eons since my truck had the original harness (and even then mine looked a lot like yours) but those are my first guesses....none of them are really necessary, though the heater is nice to help with faster warm ups. The other two would be replaced by your MC2100 anyway.


aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank

SJTD
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by SJTD »

On my '85 I had to block the coolant holes. I welded them, not something I would trust to epoxy. Supposedly some blocks don't require this. I think you use the 4.0 gasket.

The 258 head bolts are 7/16", 4.0 are 1/2". I rethreaded the block. Some guys use bushings in the head to make up the difference.
Sic friatur crustulum

'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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Cecil14
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Cecil14 »

These are the mentioned spacers:

http://www.hesco.us/products/7735/cylin ... zkdc_ldVhE

They are likely available from other sources as well.


aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
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Atla
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Atla »

Excellent! When I do this I will probably start a separate thread. In the meantime, I've started doing some research and will pick up my head in a couple days. I really wish I had kept the manifold ;/

So, today was a three steps back day. And zero steps forward.

First, I work on the AMC 20 Torx Bolts. I decide to try my manual impact driver, except I can't find my T40 bits that fit the thing. So I crawl under, take a wire wheel and clean the bolt heads and around them. (Someone saved what was left of the frame with some sort of underspray). Then I dripped some Kroil on it and smacked the bolts around to try to loosen them.

Gave up on that and decided I should fire it up. It hadn't run it maybe five months or six months now. I pulled the battery from my Wrangler, hooked it up - dropped some fuel in the carb, and tried to get it to run. It sort of did. For some reason my 100% awesome suckage from my fuel tank after replacing rotten softlines and a new fuel sender, decided to drop to about 45% suckage. According to the clear fuel filter that went from filling 100% up to filling less than half.

So I crawl under and followed the lines to see if I had missed anything. Nope. Checked the hookups and wires to the fuel sender. Looked legit.

And then the second step back showed itself.

I've installed my NP208 four times now. Because since I took it off to replace a bearing in the transmission, I have not been able to get a good seal between the two. This last time, I sanded both surfaces, tossed the new gasket, and Red RTV'd the hell out of it.

Now, six months later. It's leaking. Very, very slowly. It's been slowly filling the cross member up below it. So I never noticed until now when it looked wet.

Great. Add that back onto the list.

So, the lines looking fine, I unhook my return line from the new fuel filter I added -after- the pump. And plug it. Cause its the only thing that's changed since it ran before.

Same thing.

In disgust, I rehook my return line - and noticed my third step back - my radiator decided to leak some coolant on the top edge. Really, wtf?

Add that to the list as well.

Stinkin' thing is falling apart. :banghead:
~Atla. (I'm just here for the pictures)
1983 J-10
2001 TJ

My Build Thread - http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2722
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Cecil14
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Cecil14 »

For the 4.0l exhaust manifold...don't bother with a stock one. They crack...almost every one of them. Some of the later year ones they added some expansion joints and that helped a lot, but you can get new ones on ebay that work well and are pretty cheap. I'm running an ebay manifold similar to this one and so far it's been great. I've had it for at least 5-6 years now, no complaints for the price.

As to your fuel issues...couple thoughts. Firstly the filter does not need to fill all the way...in fact if it does that would lead me to believe there's a blockage somewhere. In reality it really only needs to fill to the level of the input/output. Ideally fuel will be coming in at about the same rate it leaves, thus only providing the amount of fuel you actually use. Typically the pump pulls a little more than you will actually use at most times, thus the return line. You are still very unlikely to actually fill the filter 100% completely, though.

It almost sounds like you're building pressure somewhere...have you pulled the line off the carb to see if you've got good flow there? Fuel pressure is important, but fuel volume is far more important. The carb doesn't really care how fast the fuel gets there, as long as the bowl is full when it needs it. Check that you're getting a good amount of fuel flow AT the carb before digging any further, then I would start working my way back from there. If no flow at the carb then pull the closest filter...fuel before that? No - check at the pump outlet, the next filter down stream, etc. The fuel system is pretty simple on that guy, so it shouldn't be too hard to track down.

Might be a good idea to pull the pump off the block, too. Check to make sure that the diaphragm in it didn't get ruptured somehow. If it did then the pump will dump fuel into your crankcase (eating the bearings) instead of sending it up to the carb.

Also be sure that your tank is well vented...if the vent line got blocked off somehow you will build a vacuum in the tank, ultimately overpowering the fuel pump and losing any fuel flow.


aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
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Atla
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Atla »

Good ideas. Especially on the manifold, I was reading about the cracking issues on them earlier at work.

Thanks for correcting me on the fuel volume of the filter, I assumed it should run full. So perhaps before when it was running filled I had an over pressure problem that was relieved by adding the return line?

I'll try and run those tests tomorrow, pull the pump, and hopefully check on that fuel tank vent - it's been so long since I re-installed the fuel tank I don't remember. I know the check valve was a pita hooking up properly.
~Atla. (I'm just here for the pictures)
1983 J-10
2001 TJ

My Build Thread - http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2722
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Cecil14
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Cecil14 »

If I remember right mine had a crappy little plastic valve somewhere in the middle on the top? I remember the grommet being rock hard and a major PITA to get reinstalled. Looks like BJs offers that grommet now (http://www.bjsoffroad.com/prod-204.htm). If in doubt I would replace the valve, even leave it out long enough to test everything if you're pretty set on that being the problem. Looks like Quadratec offers one for pretty cheap (http://www.quadratec.com/products/52449_1200.htm). I imagine it's available other places as well.

Good luck,


aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
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Nutz-n-Bolts
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Nutz-n-Bolts »

Hey Anthony, I think from some previous conversation I've had with him that he has a new check vale and his tank is vented properly. Not sure about is vapor canister though.

Alta, Did you run the line from the check valve on the gas tank to the vapor canister? And is the canister hooked to your carb? If it is hooked to the carb (as it should be) the rubber diaphragm in the canister can go bad causing vacuum leaks that would contribute to your problem.
Lover of all Old Iron

60-79 CJ5 The best parts from several years combined to make one tough ALL JEEP CJ
81 J10 Pickup My newest acquisition undergoing a complete restoration
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Atla
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Atla »

The PO removed the vapor canister. I had been planning on researching if I need to get a replacement or not. I've read conflicting things about our emissions being good/bad to keep. I do have this:

Image

And I do not know what it is... I figured some sort of filter.. It hooks up the carb(As you can kind of see in the picture)... not sure where it runs to. I started looking at it this weekend and got distracted before I could trace the vac line.

I'm can't recall where the check valve vapor line runs to now(You are correct that I do have a new one already, the old one snapped when I tried to remove it). I was thinking it just dead ended like an axle breather tube up near the tail lights...

My return line goes straight from the filter to the return line in the fuel pump.
~Atla. (I'm just here for the pictures)
1983 J-10
2001 TJ

My Build Thread - http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2722
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jaber
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by jaber »

Atla wrote:The PO removed the vapor canister. I had been planning on researching if I need to get a replacement or not. I've read conflicting things about our emissions being good/bad to keep. I do have this:

Image

And I do not know what it is... I figured some sort of filter.. It hooks up the carb(As you can kind of see in the picture)... not sure where it runs to. I started looking at it this weekend and got distracted before I could trace the vac line.
Vacuum ball. It stores vacuum like an air tank stores air. It is attached to the heater controls on the dash and also controls the T-case shifter. It keeps everything engaged when you stomp on it and the engine has no vac... ;)
Jeff

'46 cj3a
'51 Willys p/u
'51 Willys Parkway Conversion
'74 CJ5
'75 J-20 Wrecker
'75 J-20 Cummins service truck
'77 J-10 p/u
'79 Cherokee
'88 Grand Wagoneer
http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh14/jeffaber/
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Atla
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Atla »

I'll have to trace it tonight after work, but there is only one line going into it from the carb and one line going out of it.

I don't have any vac lines running to my Transfer Case(NP208), the only thing close would be my vent breather tube.

The lines are pretty loose, the In Line fell off when I removed the ball from the fender to look at it.
~Atla. (I'm just here for the pictures)
1983 J-10
2001 TJ

My Build Thread - http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2722
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Cecil14
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Re: '83 J-10 Daily Driver Build

Post by Cecil14 »

The only thing the vacuum ball does there on your rig is the heater controls. It has nothing to do with the emissions. Your tank should breathe just fine without the vacuum canister there, though there will be no "positive" removal of vapors as there might be with the vacuum canister hooked up.

On my 'burb tank the vent lines are just dead ended with vent caps on them, like the axle vent you mention. Essentially it just needs to be able to pull in air to prevent a vacuum build up in the tank.


aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
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