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"After years of being paranoid about my Jeep’s temp going towards that 220F mark, I’m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy
"After years of being paranoid about my Jeep’s temp going towards that 220F mark, I’m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy
Look at www.fuelfillerneck.com they have full rated reducers. Prices are good except for fuel hose they charge by the inch what mcmaster carr charges by the foot.
79 Cherokee WT QT Golden Eagle white with gold windows "Pigger" only blows hubs the night before a road trip or the clodest night of year. Has only been towed cause of stupid.
The center is the vent/ vapor line there should be a V on top of the fitting that is a check valve for one way flow. F is fuel R is return (fuel) line there may be a size difference between the 3 lines. Go off the size of the hard line at the tank end.
79 Cherokee WT QT Golden Eagle white with gold windows "Pigger" only blows hubs the night before a road trip or the clodest night of year. Has only been towed cause of stupid.
Cheap Hobby wrote:The center is the vent/ vapor line there should be a V on top of the fitting that is a check valve for one way flow. F is fuel R is return (fuel) line there may be a size difference between the 3 lines. Go off the size of the hard line at the tank end.
Thanks guys! Where should this connect to on the other end? The stock Jeep vapor canister?
"After years of being paranoid about my Jeep’s temp going towards that 220F mark, I’m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy
"After years of being paranoid about my Jeep’s temp going towards that 220F mark, I’m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy
Cheap Hobby wrote:The center is the vent/ vapor line there should be a V on top of the fitting that is a check valve for one way flow. F is fuel R is return (fuel) line there may be a size difference between the 3 lines. Go off the size of the hard line at the tank end.
Thanks guys! Where should this connect to on the other end? The stock Jeep vapor canister?
You have to connect it to the vapor canister that came with the vehicle the engine was in. You can't use the stock Jeep one.
1977 Cherokee S, Ford 5.0, 5 speed, BW 1356, 33 x 10.50 BFG's. No longer my DD.
2007 Mercury Milan, 2.3L, 5-speed, now my DD. 29 mpg average.
srobertsfsj wrote:Can I block it off for now or would that be bad?
The entire EVAP system has to be connected as it was in the vehicle the engine came out of. If not, the IM monitor won't pass and you won't pass emissions inspection.
1977 Cherokee S, Ford 5.0, 5 speed, BW 1356, 33 x 10.50 BFG's. No longer my DD.
2007 Mercury Milan, 2.3L, 5-speed, now my DD. 29 mpg average.
That is why I asked if you could get hoses to fit either end. When I said make one, I meant actually making a metal reducer. I make mine from aluminum. It is so much easier to cut than stainless.
1977 Cherokee S, Ford 5.0, 5 speed, BW 1356, 33 x 10.50 BFG's. No longer my DD.
2007 Mercury Milan, 2.3L, 5-speed, now my DD. 29 mpg average.
"After years of being paranoid about my Jeep’s temp going towards that 220F mark, I’m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy
srobertsfsj wrote:For those of you who are not running emissions (evap). Where did you plug the vent port on the fuel pump in to?
I used one of the little vents from an axle/transmission/ect, put it on the end of some rubber hose and fastened it to the crossmember right next to where the rear axle vent is.
-Rick
87' GW 5.3/4l60E/NP241C, Dakota Digital dash, high steer, 31's, still needs a bigfoot gas pedal to tie it all together.
90' YJ 3 link coils front, 4 link double triangulated coils rear, D44s, ARBs, 4.56, 35's
getting a chance to do a little work on the Jeep today. I am test fitting the radiator and fan and I was wondering if you guys think fans are too close? I am going to be running stock mechanical fan and using an electric fan as backup. I am going to wire a switch in the dash to turn it on when needed. I had this electric fan leftover from my old setup. so is this too close for comfort?
"After years of being paranoid about my Jeep’s temp going towards that 220F mark, I’m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy
If the mechanical fan comes into contact with the electric, you have bigger issues than just the fans, as in for some reason your engine moved. I hope you build a shroud over the whole thing. Dodge Dakotas have a similar setup, so it is a setup that will work.
1977 Cherokee S, Ford 5.0, 5 speed, BW 1356, 33 x 10.50 BFG's. No longer my DD.
2007 Mercury Milan, 2.3L, 5-speed, now my DD. 29 mpg average.
As its stands now, I am not sure that mechanical fan is going to do anything at all. For a double pull/pull setup to work, the secondary fan has to be able to move more air than the primary. If it doesn't, then it can actually hurt your cooling. It would also need a shroud to help pull air through the other puller fan.
I don't see how the mechanical fan will pull any air through the (relatively) little hole that the electric fan shroud has now created. :- /
Also, with the electric fan blocking airflow to the fan clutch, it might take a while for it to heat up and engage the mechanical fan. Do you NEED to have both?