Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

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jaber
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by jaber »

Craftsman should have a good set. Get an impact set, those bolts can be a pain to remove.
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dodgerammit
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by dodgerammit »

I used a breaker bar to get mine loose.
84 Grand Waggy-Radio Flyer (Garnet Red/3M Ebony Metallic woodgrain, with honey interior) AMC 360 :cry: 2004 4.8LS/Advance Adapter/727/242 D44/AMC20 Serehill tailgate and headlight harnesses :fsj: Ongoing thread-viewtopic.php?t=11897

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Lumpskie
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by Lumpskie »

jaber wrote:Craftsman should have a good set. Get an impact set, those bolts can be a pain to remove.
dodgerammit wrote:I used a breaker bar to get mine loose.
Good to know, I'll pick up craftsman impact set and be ready for a bit of a fight getting the bolt loose.
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb

Nikkormat
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by Nikkormat »

Lumpskie wrote:The driver's seat belt buckle wasn't staying reliably buckled. So, I ordered a new one off of Team Grand Wagoneer. The belt color isn't great but at least the buckle will match the rest.
Image

Looks like Jeep used a big torx fastener to hold the belts on. I think I might as well just buy a nice set. Anyone out there have a recommendation for a good torx set I can order? Or should I just go to Sears and see if Craftsman has a set?
My Huskys from Home Depot have served me well. Big set of them for $20 with lifetime warranty.
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tedlovesjeeps71
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by tedlovesjeeps71 »

Lumpskie wrote:
jaber wrote:Craftsman should have a good set. Get an impact set, those bolts can be a pain to remove.
dodgerammit wrote:I used a breaker bar to get mine loose.
Good to know, I'll pick up craftsman impact set and be ready for a bit of a fight getting the bolt loose.
Try and clean the threads that are protruding out the bottom. All the ones I've broken got partially out before the built up goo got em stuck. Only thing worse is spinning the torx bit out in the head! Image

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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by Nikkormat »

Oh yeah! That's darn good advice Ted!

So here's my process for successful seat belt bolt removal.

#1 - Pray to your chosen dietys for success.

#2 - Locate the offending bolts from above and below. Make sure you have the correct bit! T40 T45 T47 T50 T55

#3 - Heat the bolts from below to loosen crud on the shank and nullify the locktite. Take a wire wheel to the threads and clean those threads like you're going to eat off of them.

#4 - Lubricate the threads liberally from below.

#5 - Knock on wood.

#6 - Attempt to remove the bolt. An impact gun (on a low setting or a weak one) is less likely to strip the Torx head then the 200lb gorrila on the wrench is.

#7 - If (when) it starts to strip... STOP and re evaluate.

#8 - Hammer in an oversized Torx. If it starts stripping again weld in an oversized Torx.

When you're going to reinstall use antiseze liberally! I've screwed myself not doing so before.
Gabe, "reformed" Jeep hoarder.
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tedlovesjeeps71
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by tedlovesjeeps71 »

^^ sage advice ^^

I've only had one instance where the belt bolt came out easy. Had a YJ come in the shop one day for an "emergency!" Seat belt replacement. Guys buckle didn't work but the cop followed him to the shop to make sure it was fixed and not just a BS story. I grabbed the boss's Snap on Big Cat and the torch bit. I swear that bolt came out just from me threatening it with the cat.
Iif you're gonna use an impact, put all your weight against it and go super slow. Using the loose/tight/loose method may help as well.

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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by SJTD »

I'll say it. Seems obvious but some guys don't do it:

CLEAN the dirt, paint, rust, whatever out of the socket so the tool bottoms in the hole.

Use the right size. Sometimes the next smaller tool seems to fit.

Back up the head of the wrench with your other hand so you're putting only torque on the bolt especially if you're using an extension. I prefer using an extension to keep the wrench centered over the bolt. Do it one handed and the bit likes to lean out of the hole.
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Lumpskie
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by Lumpskie »

Wow, thanks for the advice, you guys. I might start by cleaning and soaking the bolt in PB blaster. Then, I'll try using my impact gun on a low setting on it. Will report back!
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
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ProTouring442
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by ProTouring442 »

Lumpskie wrote:Looks like Jeep used a big torx fastener to hold the belts on. I think I might as well just buy a nice set. Anyone out there have a recommendation for a good torx set I can order? Or should I just go to Sears and see if Craftsman has a set?
Nope, not a Torx. Well, sort of not a Torx.

Anyway, it's a special socket. Mac called it an SC88

Here's one on Fleabay (no affiliation): https://www.ebay.com/p/Mac-Tools-SC88/1530192668

I think most call it a T-47, but note that it has the points machined flat. A regular Torx will usually strip the head out or break break off in the head while trying to remove the bolt
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Lumpskie
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by Lumpskie »

ProTouring442 wrote:
Lumpskie wrote:Looks like Jeep used a big torx fastener to hold the belts on. I think I might as well just buy a nice set. Anyone out there have a recommendation for a good torx set I can order? Or should I just go to Sears and see if Craftsman has a set?
Nope, not a Torx. Well, sort of not a Torx.

Anyway, it's a special socket. Mac called it an SC88

Here's one on Fleabay (no affiliation): https://www.ebay.com/p/Mac-Tools-SC88/1530192668

I think most call it a T-47, but note that it has the points machined flat. A regular Torx will usually strip the head out or break break off in the head while trying to remove the bolt
Bought it! Thanks for the heads up!
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
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derf
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by derf »

I had good luck with a T50 on the bolts on Truck Norris when I did the TGW seatbelts a couple weeks ago. Follow nikkormat's advice, especially #3. Wire wheel those threads until clean and do the 50/50 ATF/acetone mix to soak from below. Heat them up to loosen the locktite just before removing.
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Lumpskie
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by Lumpskie »

derf wrote:I had good luck with a T50 on the bolts on Truck Norris when I did the TGW seatbelts a couple weeks ago. Follow nikkormat's advice, especially #3. Wire wheel those threads until clean and do the 50/50 ATF/acetone mix to soak from below. Heat them up to loosen the locktite just before removing.
With every post, I take this job more seriously. I'm going to start on this job on Saturday. In the end, I might just clean and soak Saturday and give loosening a first try on Sunday.

Did you put Locktite on when reinstalling?
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
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derf
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by derf »

Lumpskie wrote:
derf wrote:I had good luck with a T50 on the bolts on Truck Norris when I did the TGW seatbelts a couple weeks ago. Follow nikkormat's advice, especially #3. Wire wheel those threads until clean and do the 50/50 ATF/acetone mix to soak from below. Heat them up to loosen the locktite just before removing.
With every post, I take this job more seriously. I'm going to start on this job on Saturday. In the end, I might just clean and soak Saturday and give loosening a first try on Sunday.

Did you put Locktite on when reinstalling?
I did not use Locktite. I probably should have and may go back to add it.

One thing I forgot that may be worth considering. As long as you have it apart, you may want to look at the condition of the bolts. A couple of mine were fairly rusty. And replacing them with some new grade 8 bolts (with real heads instead of Torx) might not be a bad idea.
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by Lumpskie »

The Waggy was having an issue where it would start fine when cold but would turn over reeeaaaalllly slow when warm. I guessed it was a bad ground.

I decided to swap this guy out:


Image


I made a new cable with 2 gauge I had in the garage, mated to a welding terminal and a universal terminal on the other side.


Image


Image


I worked like a charm! The Waggy is starting normally again.
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
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Lumpskie
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by Lumpskie »

Got the seat belt swapped. I was a little disappointed in the Team Grand Wagoneer belt, especially given the price. The belt and plastic sheath didn't incorporate an opening for the front middle seat belt, so I had to run both out of the same opening. Also, the belt and sheath are slightly shorter than stock. But the biggest annoyance was the fact that the mounting hole was too small. It would fit over the threaded portion of the bolt but not the shoulder.
Image

Luckily, there was plenty of material to open the hole up and get it to work. I just expected a perfect bolt-on deal, given the price. But, the buckle is perfect and it all looks right with installation complete. So, I am happy.

Image

Thanks for all the tips and pointers, you guys.
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
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derf
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by derf »

I was able to make the factory bolt fit by just cleaning the shouldered area thoroughly on mine.
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Lumpskie
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by Lumpskie »

derf wrote:I was able to make the factory bolt fit by just cleaning the shouldered area thoroughly on mine.
Wierd! On mine, the hole size was one size smaller (on my step bit) between the stock and TGW belts.
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
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derf
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by derf »

Maybe the truck belts have a different attachment part.
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Lumpskie
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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Post by Lumpskie »

derf wrote:Maybe the truck belts have a different attachment part.
Maybe. But good to know that some of their belts fit better than mine did!
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
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