My 1976 Wagoneer Build

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bbuenger71
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My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby bbuenger71 » Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:07 am

So here she is, The newest member of our family. She doesn't have a name yet, but I'm kind of leaning towards Nancy. She looks like a Nancy. lol. I picked her up in Oregon this last weekend and towed her all the way home to Southern California. Can't wait to start tearing into it and getting her all cleaned up.

My original intentions were to drive it daily and work on it as I go. Its current condition is not going to allow me to do that for a little while. Have a few safety issues that need to be worked out first. Overall its in pretty good shape. Floor boards are solid with only superficial surface rust.

Engine: I was hoping it was going to be a 401 car but it has had a heart transplant at some point in its life. VIN states that it is a 401 but block is cast with 360 on it. Still has the 401 air cleaner on it. Right now it has a 360 with a motorcraft 4 barrel carb. It starts up pretty easily with no hesitation or extended cranking. It does smoke a little bit when first started so I think one of the valve seals is leaking or maybe a bad ring. I'll be doing a compression test soon. Speaking of leaks... It has a lot of leaks. I de greased and pressure washed the engine as best as I could yesterday. So now I can start with more of a clean slate and see where the leaks are coming from. I already plan on replacing most of the gaskets on the engine anyways. I plan on eventually rebuilding the motor.

Drivetrain: It has a TH400 trans that shifts pretty smooth. Only issue with the trans is that the front pump seal is leaking pretty bad. I will be bringing that into my work soon and fixing that. Not sure of the condition of the diffs or the QT yet. I ordered some QT fluid from bjs and will be changing out all fluid in the car before I start driving it more.

Interior: The interior is pretty shot. Front bench needs new upholstery. Headliner is torn out. Carpet is thrashed. Dash is cracked. Most of the interior lights do not work. Probably has to do with the mess of wiring under the dash. I will be sorting out the wiring very soon. As far as the dash goes... I plan on taking off the padded portion and just running the metal frame till I figure out what to do next. Can I put a dash from any year Wagoneer or Cherokee in here? I kinda like the full metal dashes out of the late 60's early 70s. Oh I almost forgot the most important thing that preventing me from driving more than a few feet... The steering column is extremely loose. The entire column just past the tilt portion moves side to side. I'm going to pull the steering wheel off and see whats broken in there. Probably just going to end up replacing the entire column. What vehicles are a direct replacement for this? This will be my first repair to be done.

Body: Body is pretty decent shape with no horrible rust. Roof interior has a bit of surface rust from water getting in from the roof rack holes. The exterior trim is all there but is beat up in some spots. So that all will probably have to be replaced.

Suspension: Not quite sure of the condition of the suspension at this time. My immediate plans are to repalce shocks and steering stabilizer and install rustys 2" AAL to accomodate 31" tires. My future plans will be SOA/SF and run 33s.

To Do list:

1. Fix steering column and flashers

2. Check brakes and replace pads/shoes

3. Replace all vital fluids

4. Check condition and chain tension of QT

5. Clean up disconnected wiring from under dash

6. Perform Ammeter bypass (Do I have to change the alt when I do this?)

7. Replace tires

8. Replace cracked windshield

9. Replace all window wipes

10. Weatherstrip

11. Replace door locks and ignition cylinders

12. Carpet

13. TFI upgrade

14. CS144

15. Fix busted A/C compressor


This is obviously a very preliminary list and will be edited as time goes on. I will be asking a ton of questions since this will be my first FSJ build. Thanks in advance for all of the advice!!


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Hole in the A/C compressor :shock:

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Greasy!

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PLEASE let me know if something I'm doing is wrong or doesn't make sense. I appreciate constructive criticism.

Better to ask stupid questions than to make stupid mistakes!! :-bd
1976 Wagoneer
360/TH400/QT
Edelbrock non EGR, Holley 600cfm, 32" BFG Mud Terrain KM2's. Lots of Bondo.
http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7276

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jsinajeep
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby jsinajeep » Mon Nov 10, 2014 2:08 pm

Look like a good start to me. Congratulation. What kind of interior parts you need :D

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bbuenger71
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby bbuenger71 » Mon Nov 10, 2014 2:12 pm

jsinajeep wrote:Look like a good start to me. Congratulation. What kind of interior parts you need :D


Thank you! Well I need to get a steering column or fix the one I have. Can't drive it like it is. I will eventually be needing carpet for the passenger area (doing line-x in the back), front headliner board, dash pad, front ashtray, Seats... I need a lot.
1976 Wagoneer
360/TH400/QT
Edelbrock non EGR, Holley 600cfm, 32" BFG Mud Terrain KM2's. Lots of Bondo.
http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7276

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jaber
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby jaber » Tue Nov 11, 2014 6:26 am

Jerry will have it for you... :-bd

Looks like a descent starting point, congrats... :-bd
Jeff

'46 cj3a
'51 Willys p/u
'51 Willys Parkway Conversion
'74 CJ5
'75 J-20 Wrecker
'75 J-20 Cummins service truck
'77 J-10 p/u
'79 Cherokee
'88 Grand Wagoneer
http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh14/jeffaber/

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bbuenger71
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby bbuenger71 » Tue Nov 11, 2014 9:43 am

Is there supposed to be a vacuum line attached to this?

Image
1976 Wagoneer
360/TH400/QT
Edelbrock non EGR, Holley 600cfm, 32" BFG Mud Terrain KM2's. Lots of Bondo.
http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7276

twisted frame
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby twisted frame » Tue Nov 11, 2014 8:48 pm

I don't recognize that part. Is that where it's mounted or is it just sitting there for the photo? Nice score on the Wag though. Minimal rust!
73 J4000. 360, MC 2100, T18A, D20, stock closed knuckle Dana 44 front, 60-2 rear. Warn Lock-O-Matics, Warn/Belleview electric winch, true duals with glasspacks, old-school front diff skid plate, used 265 Toyos on 16" AR wheels.

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bbuenger71
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby bbuenger71 » Tue Nov 11, 2014 9:50 pm

twisted frame wrote:I don't recognize that part. Is that where it's mounted or is it just sitting there for the photo? Nice score on the Wag though. Minimal rust!


Thank you! I was very shocked with how little rust there is. I'll post some pics of the floor boards after I get all the carpet remnants cleaned out.

The part is mounted on the left inner fender. I believe it has to do with the shift linkage. I've worked on a few older cars and haven't seen it before.
1976 Wagoneer
360/TH400/QT
Edelbrock non EGR, Holley 600cfm, 32" BFG Mud Terrain KM2's. Lots of Bondo.
http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7276

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bbuenger71
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby bbuenger71 » Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:29 pm

Also, the vacuum line that is still attached to this thing goes nowhere. It's routed behind the booster and is broken off at that point. On the other side of this thing there is a large AMC logo and a small stamping that says it's made by the Dana Corp.
1976 Wagoneer
360/TH400/QT
Edelbrock non EGR, Holley 600cfm, 32" BFG Mud Terrain KM2's. Lots of Bondo.
http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7276

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jaber
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby jaber » Wed Nov 12, 2014 6:21 am

That is part of the cruise control. One vac line went to the ball on the firewall behind the carb and the other to an accordion type bellows right behind the carb on the intake.
Jeff

'46 cj3a
'51 Willys p/u
'51 Willys Parkway Conversion
'74 CJ5
'75 J-20 Wrecker
'75 J-20 Cummins service truck
'77 J-10 p/u
'79 Cherokee
'88 Grand Wagoneer
http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh14/jeffaber/

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bbuenger71
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby bbuenger71 » Wed Nov 12, 2014 8:34 am

jaber wrote:That is part of the cruise control. One vac line went to the ball on the firewall behind the carb and the other to an accordion type bellows right behind the carb on the intake.


That makes perfect sense now. I was wondering how the cruise control worked on these. Was also wondering what that funky accordion thing was. Not sure if I'll keep it hooked up. Are these sought after units?
1976 Wagoneer
360/TH400/QT
Edelbrock non EGR, Holley 600cfm, 32" BFG Mud Terrain KM2's. Lots of Bondo.
http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7276

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lkmarsh
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby lkmarsh » Wed Nov 12, 2014 8:41 pm

Good looking Waggy you got there, is the paint original? If it is, would you mind posting the code off of the body tag?
Looking at your list, #6 should be #1. Ammeters like to fry. Steering column fix has been covered here, GM column, few special tools, bought or made, and some locktight. All new hoses and belts, including brake hoses, fuel tank hoses, and dash vacuum hoses, all causes of grief when neglected. I too like the metal dash without the pad!
Lyle
69 1414x Buick350/Th400/D20
PDB, HEI, relays, rallyes, rhino, rust...
73 Wagoneer parts donor

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bbuenger71
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby bbuenger71 » Wed Nov 12, 2014 9:49 pm

lkmarsh wrote:Good looking Waggy you got there, is the paint original? If it is, would you mind posting the code off of the body tag?
Looking at your list, #6 should be #1. Ammeters like to fry. Steering column fix has been covered here, GM column, few special tools, bought or made, and some locktight. All new hoses and belts, including brake hoses, fuel tank hoses, and dash vacuum hoses, all causes of grief when neglected. I too like the metal dash without the pad!


Thank you! To the best of my knowledge it is the original color. Code on tag is "H4" it's Dark Cocoa Metallic. I really like the color and will more than likely stay with it.

As far as the ammeter bypass... I think I'm going to take your advice and tackle that first. The underside of this dash scares me. There are so many cut wires and wires showing with no shielding. That's all getting cleaned up this weekend. Is there a way to do the bypass without buying a voltmeter? I want to integrate a voltmeter in the cluster to look original but I need a quick fix to get me by for now.
1976 Wagoneer
360/TH400/QT
Edelbrock non EGR, Holley 600cfm, 32" BFG Mud Terrain KM2's. Lots of Bondo.
http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7276

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Renodemona
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby Renodemona » Wed Nov 12, 2014 9:58 pm

Very good looking for a start! Have no idea how rare that cruise control stuff is but unless you're really stoked to have working CC I'd just get rid of it. If you need to smog it for California DMV there's going to be more than enough vacuum hose under the hood as it is, no need to add more to the soup unless you really want that CC feature. On the steering, check the rag joint up near the steering box. It is probably shot. Replacing it will help the steering a lot. Also make sure the box is properly attached to the frame rail. Sometimes they try to escape when off roading and/or gravel pits strike back! From the picture showing the front underside, that is a crazy amount of goo all over everything. I'd double check that the rear main, pan, timing cover, and front main seals are there. Some or all of those are probably bad with that much goop all over everything. A little leak here and there is ok, but too much gets expensive. Also, could just be for the pic, but the hose from the oil fill cap should be attached to the nipple on the air cleaner. Very helpful for proper crank venting. :) Good luck keep up the good work!
"Wait, what's on fire!?"
--------------------------------------------------------------
1976 Cherokee w/t 'Susan' 401/TH400/QT(PT)
FiTech Go EFI, Edelbrock Performer intake
3" Rough Country Springs, HEI Dizzy
-------------------------------------------------------------
1972 Wagoneer 'Meredith' 360/TH400/D20
FiTech Go EFI
4" Alcan Springs, HEI Dizzy
-------------------------------------------------------------
2018 Cherokee Trailhawk V6 'Sedna'

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bbuenger71
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby bbuenger71 » Wed Nov 12, 2014 10:19 pm

I am going to get rid of the CC. Can't see myself using it on this in the future. I also like having a cleaner engine compartment, I'm going to be taking off the smog equipment since I will be keeping the vehicle registered in Oregon where that won't be an issue. Already have a 600cfm Holley and am waiting on the edelbrock intake.

As far as the leaks... The undercarriage was soaked in oil. I cleaned most of all the old residue off and am going to check and see where the largest leaks are coming from and start there.

With the steering, it is internal In the column. I believe the torx bolts that hold the upper column to the tilt mechanism have come loose or broke. The rag joint probably needs to be replaced but isn't affecting the specific issue I'm having right now.

If I get a different air cleaner housing do I need to route the hose from the filler cap somewhere?
1976 Wagoneer
360/TH400/QT
Edelbrock non EGR, Holley 600cfm, 32" BFG Mud Terrain KM2's. Lots of Bondo.
http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7276

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bbuenger71
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby bbuenger71 » Mon Nov 17, 2014 8:23 am

So with the recent time change, getting off of work after dark and not having a lit garage to work in I have not done too much on the waggy since I pulled up some carpet last Sunday. Yesterday I was able to fix my loose steering column issue tho. It took me a few hours to complete the job. Would've been a lot quicker if I didn't forget one little spring and have to tear it completely apart again :banghead: . But I guess thats how these things go. The cause of my loose steering column is the four star point bolts at the base of the tilt assembly had come loose. I removed them all, applied loctite and re-torqued them all down. Pretty easy to get down to those bolts if you have the right tools. The steering wheel puller and lock plate puller are pretty easy to come by and inexpensive. I bought both of those at Napa for $20 total. The last tool I needed was a steering pivot pin removal tool. You cannot access the bolts without one of these and I was having the hardest time finding one. Luckily the light bulb went off in my head and I realized that the tool was sitting right under my nose. Well actually in one of my technicians tool box. lol. Glad I work for a jeep dealership and have a couple older guys here with old special tools :D Oh and I also fixed my broken turn signal cam and put in a new ignition cylinder. I was able to start it without a key with the old one.

I started to take out the instrument cluster to take a look at the gauges that weren't working and to fix the loose lenses, but I stopped due to the lack of light. I will continue on that this next weekend. Does anyone know where to get replacement knobs? All of the knobs on my dash come off with the slightest tug.

Broken turn signal cam
Image

The 4 bolts causing all the trouble
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Steering pivot pin removal tool
Image
1976 Wagoneer
360/TH400/QT
Edelbrock non EGR, Holley 600cfm, 32" BFG Mud Terrain KM2's. Lots of Bondo.
http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7276

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jsinajeep
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby jsinajeep » Mon Nov 17, 2014 9:18 am

looking good

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Tatsadasayago
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby Tatsadasayago » Mon Nov 17, 2014 9:27 am

I haven't seen that tool in years!
You lucked out Sir.
Thanks for sharing your progress.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation

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bbuenger71
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby bbuenger71 » Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:08 pm

So yesterday I pulled my instrument cluster out to fix the loose lenses and get it cleaned up and decided that now would be a good time to do the ammeter bypass. I need some help with this one. Electrical is my weak point. It confuses the crap out of me. I have read a TON of posts about ammeter bypasses but it just isn't clicking for me. What is the easiest way to do this? Any helpful links? I'm a visual person and need to see something to understand how it works. So pictures are crucial. I can somewhat get the gist of wiring diagrams but all the ones I've found online are such bad quality I can barely read them. Please Help!!! I don't want this project burning down to the ground.
1976 Wagoneer
360/TH400/QT
Edelbrock non EGR, Holley 600cfm, 32" BFG Mud Terrain KM2's. Lots of Bondo.
http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7276

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ghcoe
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby ghcoe » Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:40 pm

This is the simple way. If you look on the back of the cluster you will see two post sticking out behind the amp meter location. When you removed the gage cluster you had to remove the wires that attached to these two posts, right? So, when reinstalling you just attach both wires to only one post. It does not matter what post you attach them to.

Or you can do it this way. http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... uges.shtml A little bit more complicated, but redirects the power directly to the battery instead of routing behind the dash. This makes for shorter power runs from the alternator to the battery and also doubles up on the wires to the power distribution under the dash.
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1977 Jeep Cherokee WT
All-Terrain T/A® KO2
Safari Kit
Factory Brush Guard
Factory Tire Carrier
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bbuenger71
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Re: My 1976 Wagoneer Build

Postby bbuenger71 » Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:14 pm

ghcoe wrote:This is the simple way. If you look on the back of the cluster you will see two post sticking out behind the amp meter location. When you removed the gage cluster you had to remove the wires that attached to these two posts, right? So, when reinstalling you just attach both wires to only one post. It does not matter what post you attach them to.


Well that is simple enough! At this point I just want something simple like that so I get it ready to drive around. I will eventually do a cleaner bypass to redirect it from behind the dash and incorporate a volt meter in the cluster. Thanks for the info!
1976 Wagoneer
360/TH400/QT
Edelbrock non EGR, Holley 600cfm, 32" BFG Mud Terrain KM2's. Lots of Bondo.
http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7276


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