Full Size Jeep Network

My brother turned me on to this idea. I thought I'd share. I don't know if anybody has tried it already. He has it working somewhat.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4yYF8gSHdA

I'm sure it takes some experimentation to get it working properly. But it looks very useful.

I have done this a lot. Navy ships do this continuously to protect the hull also.

To expand the knowledge of everyone reading this, and so that they remember how to took the wires up if/when they decide to try it:

The part you are sacrificing is called a "SACRIFICIAL ANODE", the part you are taking rust off of is called the "CATHODE". A particle that has a POSITIVE CHARGE is called an "ANION" (pronounced "an-ion"), an particle that has a negative charge is called a "CATION" (pronounced "cat-ion"). I learned to remember that in a fight between a cat and an ant, a cat would win, so in the electrolytic process, the cat is the one that going to win. Also, cats are very NEGATIVE. Always biting the hand that pets them and what not. So in short CAT=NEGATIVE=WIN (opposite of damaged).

Now the electrolytic solution. WATER IS A POOR CONDUCTOR OF ELECTRICITY. Water alone will do the job, but the amps you would need using regular tap water to overcome the ohms is beyond the limits of a battery charger or small welder. I can go more into that if people want to know more, but you add stuff to the water to increase it's conductivity. That's what he was using the "washing soda" for. Powdered laundry soap works. Baking soda works. Table salt works(note to follow on table salt). I USE BORAX out of pure habit.

If you do a lot of research on this on the internet you will see that ammonia is used a lot commercially. If you try to use ammonia you will make a lot of poison gas and have a vat of acid when you are done. Stick to stuff you put in food or rub on your body anyways. If you use table salt (which when emulsified is an active oxidizer) it works great until you pull your cathode out of the bath. At that point, it's not just covered in salt water, it's covered in ANGRY salt water. Surface rust will be almost immediate.

I was about to go into the "what is actually happening" but then I remembered I have to wake up in 5 hours. So, here's the "need to know" stuff. The thing you're cleaning get's the black clamp. Use soap. And the main thing that that video didn't touch on is it's LINE OF SIGHT. Instead of a brake rotor, get some cheap rabbit fence from the hardware store and bend it to the shape of whatever NON-CONDUCTIVE tub you are using. Suspend the part being cleaned in the middle so that as much surface area as possible is in direct line of sight to the wire mesh as possible. Don't let them touch, you'll short your power source and either blow a fuse or burn your house down. That's the short of it. Have fun!

Three questions

If I put my FSJ in a vat will there be anything left?
Who has a vat big enough for my FSJ?
How on earth do you remove rust from rust?

wewillsurvive wrote:Three questions

If I put my FSJ in a vat will there be anything left?
Who has a vat big enough for my FSJ?
How on earth do you remove rust from rust?

1) Tires and windows
2) 4"x4" posts, 3/4" laminate press board, and a honkin' big tarp from Harbor Freight
3) Differential metals.

My dad have done this with items that fit into a similar sized box as the video. It works great but you need to protect the item you removed the rust off, and protect it quickly.

I'v done the electrolisis myself and it does work great. Was watching a video on youtube where the guy used a carbon stick as his sacrifical material. Said it made everything black because of the carbon but it didnt rust back as quickly. (his story, not mine). I'v been wanting to try another rust removal trick I saw on there where the guy uses molasses and water mixture to get rid of the rust. It takes longer, but seems to work good. He was using a huge vat like a horse trough and submerging fenders, doors, dashes, or whatever else.

If you do a good tank setup you can get extremely rusted cast iron down to bare clean metal real fast. Or any steel or iron for that mater. I de rusted a complete flood damaged head in one night of cooking. I was amazed at the results, I had stalagmites of rust growing and they were gone within hours. Keep your piece suspended off the bottom of the tank and move the anode around to cover the whole part. I stripped my oil pan to bare metal in 4 hours!

I'll try and throw some pictures in my build thread eventually.

It is really quite useful technique for rust removing through washing soda and electric current or electrolysis.

I always use white vinegar. Takes awhile but it works.

These were dissolved overnight in a $12 electrolysis tank. In freezing temperatures, none the less.

kathyrose wrote:It is really quite useful technique for rust removing through washing soda and electric current or electrolysis.

I've used that method on tools. Slow but it's safer on the tool.

Molasses works. No electricity required.