1978 Wagoneer buying advice

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tedlovesjeeps71
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Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2016 4:39 pm

Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by tedlovesjeeps71 »

thecantaloupeman wrote:
tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:https://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/ ... 94815.html

Save a few more bucks and be willing to haggle and you may find something like this is a better investment.

And be willing to travel a bit.
Hey that's a pretty nice one

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There are still an occasional "deal" to be found if your patient and lucky. You have to search a lot and be ready to buy. Being able to travel further to find that deal and be able to get it home helps. Best thing to do is keep saving as best you can so you can broaden your search n price.
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babywag
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Location: Land of Fruit Loops & Coconuts

Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by babywag »

I'd run far far away...
guarantee you'd regret a purchase like that one.
buy crappy one that needs so much + fixing = still crappy jeep and empty bank acct.
that is one rusty turd of a wag
-Tony
'88 GW (aka Babywag)

KJ Ryu
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Location: Casper

Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by KJ Ryu »

Are you on facebook? I found a Wag in Gillette, WY for $1500. Just needs fuel line. Message me and I can lead you to the ad/owner.
Ron

2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled. :mad:
1977 SJ J10, 4v360, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly.
1978 SJ Wagoneer, 4v360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall :-bd NOT Running :(
1977 SJ J10, SniperEFI 401, QT, D44s, 31X10.5s :fsj:
2006 KJ
Mars wrote:One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil :D

KJ Ryu
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Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by KJ Ryu »

Here's a link to it. Not real sure what they mean by "jeep rat." Except for the back seat, it looks decent. It may be 2wd only. Looks like it sits low, to me.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/2995976 ... 2285179528
Ron

2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled. :mad:
1977 SJ J10, 4v360, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly.
1978 SJ Wagoneer, 4v360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall :-bd NOT Running :(
1977 SJ J10, SniperEFI 401, QT, D44s, 31X10.5s :fsj:
2006 KJ
Mars wrote:One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil :D

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thecantaloupeman
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Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by thecantaloupeman »

Well I've also just found a way listed in silt CO that has a seized engine but is 100% rust free and 1200 bucks. The interior and exterior are near perfect. Is it hard to fix a seized engine?

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tedlovesjeeps71
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Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by tedlovesjeeps71 »

thecantaloupeman wrote:Well I've also just found a way listed in silt CO that has a seized engine but is 100% rust free and 1200 bucks. The interior and exterior are near perfect. Is it hard to fix a seized engine?

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Fix? Just expensive as it would require a FULL rebuild. Better option for a limited budget would be a used, running motor swapped in. Finding a clean, rust free body is a better direction as you'll put money into something of value.

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thecantaloupeman
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Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by thecantaloupeman »

KJ Ryu wrote:Here's a link to it. Not real sure what they mean by "jeep rat." Except for the back seat, it looks decent. It may be 2wd only. Looks like it sits low, to me.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/2995976 ... 2285179528
Can you resend the link it wouldn't work

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letank
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Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by letank »

[quote="thecantaloupeman]100% rust free[/quote]

rust free is impossible.. sorry to be sarcastic... rust free if it is kept in a vault deprived of oxygen.... the same as does not leak oil...

pop up the carpet at all 4 corners by the wheel wells... you will find some rust because those riggs construction let water drips in the corners and the carpet will keep the water so metal can be oxydized
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)

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thecantaloupeman
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Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by thecantaloupeman »

tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:
thecantaloupeman wrote:Well I've also just found a way listed in silt CO that has a seized engine but is 100% rust free and 1200 bucks. The interior and exterior are near perfect. Is it hard to fix a seized engine?

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Fix? Just expensive as it would require a FULL rebuild. Better option for a limited budget would be a used, running motor swapped in. Finding a clean, rust free body is a better direction as you'll put money into something of value.
Well if I was able to unseize it using diesel fuel or something, would it be safe to run? Or would it still require a rebuild?

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tedlovesjeeps71
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Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by tedlovesjeeps71 »

thecantaloupeman wrote:
tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:
thecantaloupeman wrote:Well I've also just found a way listed in silt CO that has a seized engine but is 100% rust free and 1200 bucks. The interior and exterior are near perfect. Is it hard to fix a seized engine?

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Fix? Just expensive as it would require a FULL rebuild. Better option for a limited budget would be a used, running motor swapped in. Finding a clean, rust free body is a better direction as you'll put money into something of value.
Well if I was able to unseize it using diesel fuel or something, would it be safe to run? Or would it still require a rebuild?

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Depends on why it is siezed. If it was run into the ground and the bearings were worn and/or spun, a rebuild may save it. If it got water in it and sat it could be nothing but a boat anchor now. Impossible to say either way so it's a crapshoot. Lots of folks have been lucky and been able to bring a motor back to life but it is never a guarantee what you have once it's freed up. It may run ok, it may run but like crap, or it may simply be able to turn but has bad compression, knocks, smokes, etc.
I hate sounding like a negative person and I usually encourage people to try. But with a limited budget and skills (no offense), you could quickly find this to become a money pit and source of frustration. But like the saying goes, "I ain't yo momma to tell you what to do".Image whatever you get, we will be here and try and answer your questions to help as best we can.

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thecantaloupeman
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Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by thecantaloupeman »

tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:
thecantaloupeman wrote:
tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:
Fix? Just expensive as it would require a FULL rebuild. Better option for a limited budget would be a used, running motor swapped in. Finding a clean, rust free body is a better direction as you'll put money into something of value.
Well if I was able to unseize it using diesel fuel or something, would it be safe to run? Or would it still require a rebuild?

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Depends on why it is siezed. If it was run into the ground and the bearings were worn and/or spun, a rebuild may save it. If it got water in it and sat it could be nothing but a boat anchor now. Impossible to say either way so it's a crapshoot. Lots of folks have been lucky and been able to bring a motor back to life but it is never a guarantee what you have once it's freed up. It may run ok, it may run but like crap, or it may simply be able to turn but has bad compression, knocks, smokes, etc.
I hate sounding like a negative person and I usually encourage people to try. But with a limited budget and skills (no offense), you could quickly find this to become a money pit and source of frustration. But like the saying goes, "I ain't yo momma to tell you what to do".Image whatever you get, we will be here and try and answer your questions to help as best we can.
Yeah I appreciate it a lot it really helps to hear it from other people who are more experienced than me. I did text the guy and he said it was run out of oil. He says there is an AMC 360 town that is 350$ and he would go down to 900$ for the car. I don't know, is replacing an engine something I could figure out relatively easily?

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tgreese
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Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by tgreese »

I would comment - for the amateur, mechanical problems are much easier to repair than issues with rust, collision damage, and completeness. Back in the day, they would advertise such old cars as "mechanic's special!" because it was not economical to repair them unless you were spending your own time. Also, I would not be put off by transmission or transfer case problems, if you are willing to do the work. Axles can be swapped out as units, but you probably don't want to take on axle repair unless it's somthing simple like a broken axle or bad wheel bearings. Completeness really matters - buying a vehicle with a bunch of missing parts will drain your budget very quickly, if you can find what's missing at all.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
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derf
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Re: 1978 Wagoneer buying advice

Post by derf »

thecantaloupeman wrote:Yeah I appreciate it a lot it really helps to hear it from other people who are more experienced than me. I did text the guy and he said it was run out of oil. He says there is an AMC 360 town that is 350$ and he would go down to 900$ for the car. I don't know, is replacing an engine something I could figure out relatively easily?

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Swapping an engine isn't rocket surgery. But there are 100+ little details you have to keep track of as you do the work. The more swaps you do the faster you can do it. You'll need a hoist to lift the old engine out and the new one back in. You'll also want a good floor jack with some jack stands to support the transmission with the engine out. You'll need a decent set of tools but nothing exotic. Wrenches and sockets, with a good assortment of extensions, screwdrivers, etc.

You also want to look at the "as long as the engine is out, what should I replace" list. So many maintenance things are much easier when you don't have the rest of the engine bay in the way. But parts can add up quick, so you have to look at that as well. Rubber motor mounts and hoses, as well as rebuilding the oil pump are the bare minimum I would do. Swapping out the water pump and fuel pump isn't a bad idea. Getting deeper into it and replacing the timing chain is an option. A cam upgrade with new lifters and pushrods is easy with the engine out.

But, of course, this is assuming the donor engine is in good shape. If it's worn out and tired, there's no point putting it in without a full rebuild.
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