Offroad Tool Trailer build.

[Irocz327]

So I picked up an old 70's style pickup frame trailer last weekend that I got in a trade. It has a matching chevy dana 44 6 bolt, same as the waggy.

The Reason:
Because we tend to break alot of stuff when we are on the road, & every where that's worth driving to is a long haul from home. So we want something to be able to do almost anything next to a drive train swap on the road. It's not meant to drag across the Rubicon just enough to drag on mild trails & general off road use. Also to be completely self sufficient from the truck during repairs.

The Plan!

*35's+full size spare mounted some where on it.
*Duel Aux fuel tanks, 1 diesel & one gas for those longer trips in the backwoods.
*Decent size water tank. both the fuel tanks & water tanks mounted in the frame rails to keep the COG low.
*Small storage deck in the back, along with some sort of tool box/cubby set up
*On board Homemade generator (small gas or diesel engine to power and Alternator & arc welder) Mainly to charge the batteries.
*The 120v AC will come from 1 2000watt inverter & a 800 watt inverter mounted in the battery box.
dual batteries. Outlets will be ran to several spots in the trailer.
*Otherwise, just to carry spare parts (hubs, full axles, etc)
*Also to carry most shop tools, electric powered my the inverters, And air powered tools.
*Forgot, Im gunna run 2 or 3 HD Harbor freight 12v air compressors inline (seperated by check valves) to fill a 5g air tank.
*2 sand legs for the back & one next to the landing wheel up front.

Where I am right now,




My current rough plan.. budget & materials will determine final plan.




Current to do:
*Tear down axle, new bearing & fluids & replace missing wheel studs.
*Find tires (see signature)
*find fuel tanks & figure out pump set ups. Same for the water tank.
clean up & chassis saver the frame & replace sway bar bushings & maybe spring bushings with greaseables
*weld up lower frame & substructure (rock rails, & tank Mounts)
*weld up basic frame of everything, & debate if a roof rack is feasible.
* Wire up trailer.
*remove bolted on 2in receiver & replace with 2in tube receiver to swap between a ball hitch & 3 axis hitch.


There's more I'm sure but that's off the top of my head.

Any input or advice would be appreciated, other wise this is gunna be slow build until the trucks finished, just wanted to get this out there. Thanks for looking, Mike

[nc wagoneer]

I would run the same axle/gears as your front or rear end. That way if you blow it, you have a spare. Just a thought.

Sent from my Motorola Moto X

[Irocz327]

Nc- that's the plan. I'm hoping I get lucky on the ratio. But I'll find out when I change the fluid.

[Stuka]

Looks like a GM frame, so its going to be a 10B or 12B in back. Unless you swapped a 10B or 12B into your waggy?!

Looks like a good starting point though. Should be able to carry plenty of gear in it.

[jeremyji]

I had one that I sold a while back, but all I did for it was take the back of a pickup frame and stop a ready made pickup tool box on it. It had a tank up top a already for air, but I kept a gas powers compressor on it and a gas powered stick welder with ac outlets on it. That trailer always worked out pretty well for me, and it's not hard to find used boxes. Better to get the ones with doors instead of tool drawers do you can switch out tool sets or whatever to suit your needs. Plus, if you ever plan a long off-road trip or whatever, you can use it for gear storage.

Sent using my toaster oven

[Tad]

I would not use a truck axle for a trailer axle I needed to go long range.
You can build a real trailer axle with matching lug pattern for less than $150 through Etrailer.com.
Want trailer brakes add another $150.

[AwesomeJ10]

Looks good.

But it also looks very, very heavy....

[Nutz-n-Bolts]

I would not use a truck axle for a trailer axle I needed to go long range.
You can build a real trailer axle with matching lug pattern for less than $150 through Etrailer.com.
Want trailer brakes add another $150.

Tad, while I see your point, I think your passing up on an opportunity to encourage Mike to extend the drive line back to power the trailer axle too!

[Cecil14]

Instead of running 12v compressors why not use an A/C compressor along with the alternator? It would be a whole lot beefier than the electric compressors, if you're going to have a motor available anyway that'd be the way to go.


aa

[Irocz327]

Looks like a GM frame, so its going to be a 10B or 12B in back. Unless you swapped a 10B or 12B into your waggy?!

I'm already running a chevy 10 bolt front & back of the waggy right now. Thou in the future if I don't truss it I'd like to swap in a chevy 12 bolt, but then I'd have to swap one under the trailer. The trailer acts as rolling spare parts axle for the waggy.

Jermey- if I can find a box off of a utility truck I'm gunna go that route instead of building my own framing for the trailer box.

Tad-

I would not use a truck axle for a trailer axle I needed to go long range.

Its not intended for major off road, but more for a mild off roading (basically to get it to our campsite) & also I wanted the better load bearing weight off the tools & gear better then a normal trailer axle.
Thou I am trying to figure out some brake set ups. because lord knows I'm gunna need help stoping that pig! lol

Blake-

But it also looks very, very heavy....

Yes it will be!, but that's the point of going with a full frame & truck rear end set up.

Nutz-

I think your passing up on an opportunity to encourage Mike to extend the drive line back to power the trailer axle too!

Haha!! you come up with the plans man & I'll see what I can do! I wonder how many U joints I'd need.. hmmm

Cecil-

Instead of running 12v compressors why not use an A/C compressor along with the alternator? It would be a whole lot beefier than the electric compressors, if you're going to have a motor available anyway that'd be the way to go.

I have been thinking about going that route to, but I know a welder will put a large load on the engine when its running & I wonder if the compressor was running at the same time if it would stall the engine..
I am considering it thou, thanks for the advice.

[Irocz327]

I would not use a truck axle for a trailer axle I needed to go long range.
You can build a real trailer axle with matching lug pattern for less than $150 through Etrailer.com.
Want trailer brakes add another $150.

I just looked up Etrailer.com thats a sweet site!!

Also just looked up the gross axle weight of a dana 44 (10 bolt) & its #3500, so maybe in the future I'll look in to going to a trailer axle & full e brakes set up. Thanks for the heads up!

[Stuka]

Looks like a GM frame, so its going to be a 10B or 12B in back. Unless you swapped a 10B or 12B into your waggy?!

I'm already running a chevy 10 bolt front & back of the waggy right now. Thou in the future if I don't truss it I'd like to swap in a chevy 12 bolt, but then I'd have to swap one under the trailer. The trailer acts as rolling spare parts axle for the waggy.

I know its a bit off topic, but don't bother with a 12B. The strength difference is negligible at best. With a diesel up front, I would be looking to a 14B swap, and put 8 lug hubs on your front axle.

[Irocz327]

I know its a bit off topic, but don't bother with a 12B. The strength difference is negligible at best. With a diesel up front, I would be looking to a 14B swap, and put 8 lug hubs on your front axle.

if I do go to a 12B its more likely because of the axle housing strength & not the internal strength. A 6.2 isn't gunna put the power to the rear end anywhere near a mild 350sbc. In the future I might hang a turbo on it, but not right away.

[66stepside]

I am liking the planning of the trailer concept. I can't wait to see it evolve.

Does anyone think it is possible to modify an alternator set up and the pulley on the axle's yoke to charge a battery for use for LED camping lights or to run a small compressor with a power inverter? Would that even be feasible? I thought about doing that on my trailer.

[jeremyji]

Why would you want to do that? You could just run power from the tow vehicle if you really wanted that. Running an axle that turns will just complicate your project, and mocking up something to turn an alternator will just increase rolling resistance of your trailer and add parts that may fail. If it came down to not wanting to use the tow vehicle, just throw a couple deep cycles on your trailer, and charge them with a trickle charger when you get done using them.

[Tad]

I would not use a truck axle for a trailer axle I needed to go long range.
You can build a real trailer axle with matching lug pattern for less than $150 through Etrailer.com.
Want trailer brakes add another $150.

I just looked up Etrailer.com thats a sweet site!!

Also just looked up the gross axle weight of a dana 44 (10 bolt) & its #3500, so maybe in the future I'll look in to going to a trailer axle & full e brakes set up. Thanks for the heads up!

I have dealt with them 3 times now, very fast shipping.
I had 3 rims with tires, fully mounted and balanced shipped to AZ in three days for no extra cost and all we'd spot on.
They will work with you on any axle build.

[66stepside]

Why would you want to do that?

I was thinking of a self-sustaining trailer, but apparently there's also a little Avirl Lavigne in my thinking- you know, having to make things complicated. Lol. Your way is a bit more sensible.

[Irocz327]

Hey folks, so I found a good deal on an old ford ranger bed & topper on Craigslist for $150 for both. So seeing how this is a budget build that's the direction I'm gunna go. I'm picking them up in a couple weeks because I have family in town this week. I also got my hands on a free running 16hp small engine for my charging system /generator & welder / compressor setup.

The problem I'm running in to now is how to lay out the parts because the engine is a vertical shaft. I can turn the alternator & weldinator on they're heads (pulley down) but I cant do the same with the air-compressor out of fear of all the oil draining to one side & causing the pump to seize. So any ideas there?

I've also did some research & found that running with fuel tanks hard mounted to the trailer is illegal in my area. so I guess I'll be adding more jerry cans & holders.

[nc wagoneer]

I'd see if you could get around the hard-mounting law by having a clamp-down or bolt-down system so it isn't like it's permanently mounted.

Sent from my Motorola Moto X

[Irocz327]

I'd see if you could get around the hard-mounting law by having a clamp-down or bolt-down system..

Do you mean like a pick up bed tank? Like the diesel pickups & farms usually have?