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I'm not going to be doing any hard wheeling at all until I address the d35 and 35" tires! All in all, it's in good shape, low mileage (87300 or so) and minimal vibration. The PO stuck some 4.11 gears in it so it's not a complete dog off the line.
Once I fix the "little axle, big tire" issue, then engine breathing will be the primary concern. I'll start pricing d44s out of TJs first, then go from there.
D35! eek!! Those things don't hold up with stock size tires.
And yeah you have a few options. Ford 8.8's from an Explorer are popular as you get disc brakes, same width, and the same lug pattern. Requires a little fab work for the control arm links. But you can buy a kit that has weld on brackets. Or you can find a D44 from a Wrangler, but they go for more money.
It's possible that the PO installed some upgraded axles, but I won't know till I look.
I need to give some attention to the steering to. It wanders a bit and the steering isn't what I'd consider to be the norm. I'm hoping it just needs an alignment, but I suspect it's due to the lift. Again, I won't know until I can crawl under it in the daylight and get a good look at it.
And so far, the avg price on d44s is running around the $1200 mark. Alloy does sell some 27 spline upgrade axles for about $300. If nothing else I can install those and run the d35 till it grenades, then up the ante for better axles... :ymdevil:
The weak point of the D35 is the c-clips. They break easily and then you end up with an axle sliding out.I have actually not seen many break shafts. Its always the c-clip.
As for the steering, it doesn't have adjustable control arms. So I am sure your caster angle is way out. Some from lower control arms that are adjustable should get it driving the way it should. Also check the rear pinion angle, you may need to get some rear uppers to get the pinion angle dialed in.
That would be my guess on the steering too. I think lowering the air pressure will help too, but I need to see what it is with the tires cool (tomorrow morning). I'm figuring about 25 psi, but some chalk marks will tell.
For the rear, I hadn't thought of the c-clips, but I'm not all that familiar with D35s either. Is there a cure aside from a different axle?
There are c-clip eliminator kits for it. Basically switches it over to a D44 style bearing retainer. Not sure on their cost. It would get rid of their weakest point. But then you still are stuck with a small ring and pinion. If you only had 33's I would say you would be ok. But with 35's, a D35 is just all around marginal.
So price things out. I think the most cost effective would be a D44 or an 8.8.
EDIT: Oh yeah, the 8.8 does use c-clips, but they are MUCH larger and not really known for failing. But they also have eliminator kits for it as well.
As always, thanks for the tips Brandon. I'll probably tap on your shoulder from time to time. New tires are going to have to wait for the moment (kinda sucks that these are brand new!), so for now, I'll be gentle and save my pennies.
The "wandering" was nothing more than airing down a bit. Tires had 30 psi and only about a 3" wide strip was touching the pavement!
I've got them aired down to about 23 psi and it's much better. I still need to let some more air out as I'm still not getting a complete contact patch yet.
Well don't air down too much of you start running into issues at higher speeds. Tire will start to role under on corners. With 8" wide wheels, you wont ever get a full contact patch in a vehicle as light as a TJ.
my buddy actually has a d35 with 35s on it. he wheels it pretty hard but is smart about it and knows what the limit of the axle is. as long as you keep that in mind itll be fine. btw: he is goin down to 33's
1986 grand wagoneer
chevy 350 tbi, tf727
rusty's 4in spring lift, amc20 rear, dana44 front, np228,
33s will most likely be the route I go, but I'm trying to look at all options. About half of the information I've come across tells me it's the carrier that's the weak link, the other half tells me it's the axle shafts or c-clips.
I'm almost to the point of buying a ready to bolt in 8.8 and call it good.
Of course, that would require money, so here I am at the beginning once again... 8-|
Stuka wrote:EDIT: Oh yeah, the 8.8 does use c-clips, but they are MUCH larger and not really known for failing. But they also have eliminator kits for it as well.
The 8.8 is a very common swap around these parts.
These Baby Jeepers seriously beat on their rigs but I have yet to hear of an 8.8 failing.
I would also back Stuka up with the recommendation of an 8.8 over spending a dime on a D35.
If the PO has upgraded the D35, I would pull it and sell it to fund the 8.8 upgrade.
Bryan Smith
Fort Wayne, Indiana
2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
- 75th Anniversary Edition - 1941 Trim Package - Recon Green --Daily Driver
1986 Jeep J20
- Super clean rig from the AZ/CA state line -- Current Project
1982 Jeep J10
- Has become a Long Term Project.
1981 Jeep J20
- Commercial flat bed - Lost in a Divorce --gone
1987 Jeep J20 Pioneer
- Former Rick Bielec aka Ricbee plow rig. Major rust!! --gone