Oil loss on amc360

[candymancan]

Now that i have had my gw for 4 months and i drive it i can see how much oil its loosing. Ive only driven 1600 miles in the last 3-4 months. Had to put a quart of oil in.. That seems like alot to me. I dont see smoke coming out the tailpipe.. on startup or when driven.. as i watch my friend drive it. Only smoke i see is a small puff of black if you stomp on the gas hard.. i think thays just from having a carbed vehicle right and normal ?

Valve covers do leak and so do the front and rear intake seals and the rear main.. but not enough to see dripping on the pavement.

Oil pressure is 40-50 cold idle after you tap the pedal to released the choke and lower the idle in gear to 600 rpm.. yes i have a tach. Hot idle varies from 20-30.. hot running at 2k rpm is near 60 psi..

Engine doesnt knock or tap.. and when i did the tuneup none of the plugs were oil fouled. They looked really good.

Soo should i just go with acceptable on the oil loss or is 1 quart every 1500-2000 too much . My 5.9 magnum in my ZJ loses about 1 quart every 3k and has been for the last 6 years.. but i know these are diff engines

[letank]

1Q every 1000 miles is considered normal for our FSJ, so you are doing really well.
Of course newer engines can go 5000 miles before the level drops to half and older 4cyl and old german cars of the same era can go with barely any oil loss in 5000miles, different technology...

[candymancan]

Ok thx. Just wanted to be sure

[KJ Ryu]

Count your stars! One quart in 1600 miles would be awesome. I get about half that in my 304 but, I know that's all gaskets. My 401 seems to go just a bit over 1K on a quart but, it was a newer pro rebuild when I bought it. Both have valve cover leaks though. Hard to find a good gasket, anymore.

[candymancan]

Yea i have new rubber felpro's on my 5.9 ZJ, and they were BEEP.. still leak.. Thats why i use The right stuff RTV for everything, Id even use it on the valve covers too if i ever take em off again.. Of course rtv is a pita to clean and get the pan/covers off due to the seal. but at least they dont leak.. ever.

debating on doing a compression check, but thats one of those things that scare me.. lol id almost rather not know the results if that makes sense. What is good compression on these engines ?

[Gumby]

I would check the plugs instead of the oil volume. You are doing just fine. Back in mine tomorrow due to the rains here. You will get used to checking your oil at every other fill up.

[derf]

I'd say that on a 40 year old vehicle one quart of oil over 1500 miles isn't terrible. It's to be expected on a high mileage engine that is probably nearing or slightly over spec on the cylinder wall wear.

Check the plugs for signs of burning oil. Do a compression check. Start thinking about and saving up for an engine rebuild. You won't need it immediately but it's coming eventually.

[ClovisMan]

If you are using somethin glike 10w30 switch to something a little thicker. Like 15w40 DELO. It will still leak, just takes a little longer to ooze out.

[candymancan]

Yea but 15-40 can also cause lubrication issues, id rather just use the 10-30

[letank]

Yea but 15-40 can also cause lubrication issues, id rather just use the 10-30

Yes and may be, it all depend on the outside temperature, if above 90ish for most use I would go 15W40. This is the usual dilemma, do we benefit from a faster oil flow with the 10W30 or a higher pressure w a 15W40. On an older engine with many miles, the thicker oil will prevent extra seapage between the rings.

On the 74 100Kmiles ago at 250kmiles and 18 years ago after redoing all the gaskets, I gave mobil 1 a test run. It was also a jeep trip to Northern Nevada, no oil use in 800 miles, it was freeway and not too many times for the engine to cool down. Back to the daily commute and the consumption went to 1 Q every 1000miles. Then I switched to part synthetic using 10W40.

Same on the 85, drained the oil before leaving Moab, and barely used any oil on the way back to SF, using 15W40.

[candymancan]

I can understand if you have low oil pressure, but i dont at least not yet... knock on fake wood panels LOL. Its in the 90s here in VA and im getting 50-60psi at 2k rpm, and 20-30 at 750 idle.

I dont doubt the oil loss prevention of thicker oil.

In my 5.9 ZJ i always put a bottle of rhilsones (or however you spell the name) ZDDP treatment which i did my SJ when i got it and changed the oil. One day i couldnt find any in the stores so i got a bottle of STP instead, these 2 are one of the few left on the sheft with real ZDDP and not that synthetic stuff. However STP has a thickening agent in it.. Im pretty sure it changed my 10-30 in my ZJ 5.9 to like 15-40 or so.. And i noticed its been 3k miles now and i have only had to put maybe half a quart in vs 1 quart. That STP stuff really works, so im sure 15-40 would work too.


So STP has sold me on their product, and its roots tracing back to the germans inventing in for their tank engines in WW2 is another thing i like being half german an all lol. Im still going to use rilsone whenever i can find it though as it has more ZDDP then STP.


Funny thing is when i first got my wagon 4 months ago oil pressure was low.. like in the teens and maybe 30 running.. first thing i did was change the oil to castrol conventional and a purolator filter and now i have the pressure i mentioned earlier.. I wish i knew what kind of oil that previous owner had in there or how old it was. The filter was a fram and was rusty... Sooo yea... I sware that Hipster moron who had this before me made me sick

[CosmicRhino]

1Q every 1000 miles is considered normal for our FSJ, so you are doing really well.
Of course newer engines can go 5000 miles before the level drops to half and older 4cyl and old german cars of the same era can go with barely any oil loss in 5000miles, different technology...

Is it really? Am I blessed/lucky for some reason? I changed my oil after about 3k miles and hadn't lost anything, certainly nothing close to a quart.

Yea but 15-40 can also cause lubrication issues, id rather just use the 10-30

Yes and may be, it all depend on the outside temperature, if above 90ish for most use I would go 15W40. This is the usual dilemma, do we benefit from a faster oil flow with the 10W30 or a higher pressure w a 15W40. On an older engine with many miles, the thicker oil will prevent extra seapage between the rings.

On the 74 100Kmiles ago at 250kmiles and 18 years ago after redoing all the gaskets, I gave mobil 1 a test run. It was also a jeep trip to Northern Nevada, no oil use in 800 miles, it was freeway and not too many times for the engine to cool down. Back to the daily commute and the consumption went to 1 Q every 1000miles. Then I switched to part synthetic using 10W40.

Same on the 85, drained the oil before leaving Moab, and barely used any oil on the way back to SF, using 15W40.

I did 10w30 for the summer but 5w30 for the winter, should we still be sticking to 10w30 in the winter for our old rigs?

[KJ Ryu]

I run 10w-30 Rotella, all year. Takes a couple more minutes to warm up in the cold but still runs the same.

[wewillsurvive]

Presenting gaskets to solve all of our problems. They arent cheap but man are they fantastic.... The MoPar guys I run with over at Moparts.com swear by them

See the reviews and recommendations in this thread alone.... (lots of other threads touting them too)
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubb ... 102/1.html

Site link...
http://www.superformanceproducts.com/

[KJ Ryu]

I don't see any AMC stuff in their catalog.

[wewillsurvive]

I don't see any AMC stuff in their catalog.

Hmmm well I was sure he had some. Let me look and see if I have something else that shows it


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[candymancan]

even if there is no amc, it works for my ZJ's LOL thanks

[KJ Ryu]

I don't see any AMC stuff in their catalog.

Hmmm well I was sure he had some. Let me look and see if I have something else that shows it


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If you find it, it needs it's own thread so more people will see it.