Can never win, radiator leaking badly

[candymancan]

The radiator on my 90 has been leaking slowely but now its like a bad faucet... dripping even when cold really quickly. the radiator is about 1 inch low when i look inside and the overflow is near empty.

I cant pin point the leak though, its somewhere on the bottom near the steering rack at least where its dripping at.. But looking further up i cant find anything, and the a/c condensor is in the way so i cant see the other side.

SIGH.. can never win and just enjoy my toys.. Always wrenching lol.. Will a radiator that you get from autozone or advance auto work ? or am i looking at cooling problems with those ? Or could I try pulling the radiator on a 84 i found and flush before install and hope that its leak free ? I just dont have $200-400 to spend on a radiator right now

[ArchitectJS]

I bought a radiator from rockauto. Vehicle specific, brass with copper core - $150 delivered. Why try and make something work?

[candymancan]

Do you think itd be worth trying to pull one from an 84 or 86 i found and see if one of those would work ? After i flush it of course

[candymancan]

Ok the leak is coming from the actual bottom tank, wiped it down and i see it leaking from the tank itself. I think i might be able to just solder this leak.

How do you remove the radiators from these Grand wagoneers.. Im trying to remove the damn grill but it has so many screws and two more inside that i cant get too.. wtf these things are held on by like 10 bolts and screws lol. Do the radiator just remove from the 4 bolts on the fan shroud.. Im looking and i only see 4 bolts. 2 on each side with the shroud and a metal bracket on the radiator. So i think it might just be 4 bolts.. am i right or does the grill have to come out ?

[Tatsadasayago]

The grille doesn't need to come out.
4 shroud bolts and 4 rad bolts. The two lower rad bolts don't need to come all the way out as they fit into a horseshoe shaped slot.

If you know how to solder, brush the seam well and use a lot of flux you can usually seal a tank.
A MAP gas torch, such as a Bernz-o-matic will provide the heat you need.
50/50 solder is recommended...

[candymancan]

i thought 100% tin was what you needed ? you sure on 50/50.

Yea i just pulled the radiator out, filled it up with water and wiped the lower section. It isnt a pin hole on the tank itself, its coming from the tank to core seam. Really badly too i might add.

I have a small propane or whatever torch i use to heat up bolts that should be perfect. Im changing cloths now to get the plumbers acid flux and the solder. And maybe a new set of wire brushes to clean the area.


Also the upper section is all greenish on one of the fine/tube to tank so i think it might be leaking from there too. Ill clean that up and solder that too. What a pita man.. on top of that one of the previous owners used those stupid clamps you use a screw drivers to clamp i forgot the names and they ate up some of the transmission tubing.. SMH..

I dont think this is the original rad. there is a made in mexico plate on it and it says 03 so i think it was replaced in 2003. Had my friend help me a little bit, more like watch.. and OMG she is one of those gum chewers with their mouths open.. Do you know how f rustrating it is to work on your car and have problems on your car and then have someone chewing gum next to you.. Finally told her to take a hike it was really iritating

Im starting to wonder if this Jeep has a thermostat.. The way i could squeeze the hoses and what i was hearing.. Seems like its on a open loop or something. Where is the thermostat located i might take that off to check

[REDONE]

If you know how to solder, brush the seam well and use a lot of flux you can usually seal a tank.
A MAP gas torch, such as a Bernz-o-matic will provide the heat you need.
50/50 solder is recommended...

The problem I keep running into on FSJ radiators is that by the time they spring a leak, the copper is so pinked that it won't take a solder. It winds up crumbling like clay once you heat it.

It's DEFINITELY still worth a shot since it's only a $40 investment to try and all the parts houses are hawking the dumb plastic tanked aluminum radiator. A quality replacement can only be had special order off the internet or from a radiator shop at a premium.

Give Tats suggestion a try, you might get lucky AND learn a new skill! If it doesn't work though, know it's probably not your fault.

[ArchitectJS]

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep ... iator,2172

Not sure which one you need, but quality replacements can be had for much less than $400

[babywag]

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep ... iator,2172

Not sure which one you need, but quality replacements can be had for much less than $400

Those are 6cyl. radiators and not the same.

[candymancan]

well it worked !!! yay, so happy, the solder and flux and brush was only $40, plus $15 for coolant and i got about 6 1 gallon things of distilled water, i kinda flushed my radiator it had alot of gunk and particles.. i shoulda flushed the engine too, but whatever.

Anyway, i used ab rass wire brush to clean the seam, and then added gobs of flux and burned it with a torch and got the metal really hot and just put the 50/50 solder on and i used alot, then i just kept the metal really really hot to allow it to get into any holes and so forth. Filled the radiator up with water on the ground and it isnt leaking out of the seem. Installed it, hooked all the lines back up, filled it up with 2 gallons of distilled water and about 1 1/2 of coolant and no leaks.. Drove it around for about 15 min, parked. still no leaks.. yay !!!

Btw i burped as much as i could out, but i noticed the overflow tank isnt one of those tanks that have a drain on them.. They are sealed... How will all the air get out of the radiator with a sealed system like this ?

Picture 1 and 2 is after i soldered it. can you see the new solder on the seam. And pic 3 is after i drove it for 15 min and it was idling parked for another 15 min. 0 coolant leaking and pavement is dry.. minus the leaking power steering box sigh lol.

[Tatsadasayago]

Well done!

[candymancan]

I think i heated the brass too much. There is a slight orangeish copper color showing. Meaning i might have cooked the zink out of the brass... Oh well i guess..


So glad this worked.. i am so brokeeeee

[Tatsadasayago]

The color means you annealed the brass...aka: changed it's properties.
It's the same process that caused the color changes on the necks of the 5.56mm cartidges you played with in the military.
Annealing relieves stresses and strengthens the metal.
Turning it reddish in color means you took the temperature up too high.

[candymancan]

Oh well.. it shouldnt hurt it i hope right ?

[Tatsadasayago]

Nah, as long as it's yellowish-copper colored you should be ok.