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My 79 Cherokee (360, t-18, Dana 20) is finally getting close to roadworthy. I pulled the radiator to get cleaned and rodded, if possible, and figured I would change the water pump. The truck had sat for 4 years before I bought it and it has ran here and there the past few years that I have had it. To remove the long bolt on passenger side of the water pump I ended up having to pull the grill and a/c condenser and get it broke loose with an impact. I have cerebral palsy so at times my hands don't always cooperate. Haha. The condenser fittings were just barbed fittings with a hose clamp over the hoses. Is that normal for a 79? All other A/C systems I have seen have been threaded type fittings.
Your condenser fittings should have crowned nuts over the flare fittings.
Hose clamps? No Bueno.
Are you sure you're not mistaking the transmission cooler for the condenser?
A V-8 condenser will be the width and most of the height of the radiator for a 79.
By the way, I have seen many times where guys adopt the condenser for a trans cooler, so that may be what your situation is.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
No tranny cooler, it's a manual. The lines come from the compressor, with barbed fitting, to top fitting of the condenser. Bottom line goes to the a/c dryer. The dryer also is a barbed fitting. I thought it was a little hokey, but all fittings were the same.
I don't know about hokey. I remember seeing lots of aftermarket A/C systems that had barbed fittings on cars back in the 70's and 80's. Most did have a special hose clamp, looked like a regular clamp but had a 90* arm on it that rested against the aluminum fitting.
I start what I finish.
81 Wagoneer 4.2/auto
77 Cherokee S 360/Auto/QT
97 Jeep Wrangler
Curly you are correct on the hose clamp with the 90* arm. It is a dealer install a/c, so maybe it's not so uncommon. Thank you for putting my mind at ease a little. I was worried it was all cobbled together, albeit pretty clean looking for cobbled, and I was going to have to change out a bunch of stuff. The wife and kiddo prefer a/c, me I don't care just roll the windows down and drive faster.
I just fixed a 79 with a manual. Definitely no bard fittings, I'm surprised it would hold the pressure. All my fittings were crimped on and had o rings.
I had a '78 way back when w/ dealer installed air...it also had barbed fittings and hose clamps. Even on the compressor low&high side they used hose clamps.
Amazingly it didn't work lol
Barb clamps as described above on the 85 as well for the return / suction side. It was holding vacuum for the 30 min test, but upon finishing the charge, the suction hose cracked open...
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Barbed fittings with hose clamps might work on the low side where pressures seldom ever go over 100 PSI, but they don't stand a chance o the high side where pressures are routinely 200-300 PSI.
Barbed fittings and the proper clamp (I like band clamps) work fine as long as the proper barrier hose is used most older r12 systems example ,my 70 f250 and 85 motor home are this way. Both are running 134a now and work fine.
Almost every aftermarket AC system I've seen on these suckers used hose clamps on both high and low pressure sides. Crazy, but the aftermarket hose clamped system in the 73 J4000 is still holding pressure.
There are some really hokey compressor mounting setups too. I'll try and remember to post a picture.
If memory serves, the dealer/aftermarket systems used a hose clamp with a pair of extended arms with claws at the ends that bit into the hose...
Definitely not a garden variety hose clamp as we know them.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
All the little arm is for is to position the clamp in the right place on the fitting, however they are typically wider and a little heavier than your standard worm gear clamp.