Rusty's 4" Lift Install Tips

[Owatonna]

I'm starting this thread to help the next guy who attempts installing this lift kit. In no way am I saying this is how it should be done but I am saying Rusty's instructions are very vague to say the least. And I have to say that I think the quality is very good. I am installing on a '87 GW with the average garage tools most guys have on hand. The truck has spent the last 10 years of it's life in Minnesota where salt is used on the roads. Although it is slightly rusty underneath most trucks of this area and age are much worse.
Front first. I began by spraying PB Blaster on all bolts two weeks before starting the project. I used jack stands on the frame rails and supported the axel with a floor jack. Right away I found that if I hit the thread side of the bolts with a 4" grinder wire wheel and PB Blaster the nuts came right off. You will still need a long breaker bar, pry bar, combination wrenches, and a couple of ratcheting tie down straps were a big help if you're doing this by yourself like I did. You can use them to pull the springs into place, align the axel, etc. The track bar needs to be removed then the U bolts, shocks, and finally the leaf springs. The leaf spring bushing bolts were the toughest. The inside collars on the bushings broke loose from the rubber and although I got the nut off the bolt wouldn't come out. Some (luckily) continued to thread out but the others had to be pounded/pried out. I cleaned and painted as I went. The new springs went right in with little problems. The only thing I would recommend would be to clean out the alignment hole on the axel and slightly taper the alignment pin on the spring packs. Install shocks, steering stabilizer. Torque as specified. I opted to wait to see if I will reinstall the track bar and whether or not I need a drop pitman arm. I also need to do a brake job so I'm leaving the break lines loose for the time being.
Rear. Same routine with the PB Blaster/grinder. I removed the muffler and tailpipe, gas tank/skid plate, (dirtiest, nastiest part of the whole job) spare tire rack, track bar, E-clip on the rear brake line. The U bolts came right off but the leaf spring bushing bolts again broke loose from the rubber. Eventually I was able to remove all but one of these (of course) and called a friend with a cutting torch, problem solved! Bolt the front of the springs first then the axel to the springs. Once thats in place you can lift the axel using the floor jack and with a tie strap around the spring and down to the jack, pull the eye into alignment. Hope this helps! Good luck.

[surfwagoneer]

I installed this on my 89. I did not need to drop the exhaust or gas tank skid plate. I did install pitman arm and extended brake lines. I also removed my track bars front and rear. If your planning on doing any towing you should prob keep the rear but will need track bar relocation brackets. The Rusty's kit does come with a brake line relocation bracket so you don't need extended brake lines, not sure how well it would work. people with this lift, including myself, have experienced a rear drive shaft shake between 50 and 60 mph. Adding a 2 degree shim to the rear springs will help correct your pinion angle. There may still be a small shake afterwards but let the springs settle and it should be minimal after that, w/ the shims.

[Owatonna]

Maybe I should clarify, I had a bad sending unit in my gas tank so I needed to drop the tank anyway and as long as the exhaust was fairly new I got that out of the way too. It did clear away a lot of obstructions. I also ordered the track bar extensions from BJ's today. I noticed that after the installation the pinion angle is a little high, where do the 2 degree shims install?

[surfwagoneer]

the 2 degree shims install right underneath your spring pack and bolt in. I picked my up at auto zone for like $11

[Owatonna]

Thanks for the info. The install is complete now and the ride is great with the exception of needing the rag joint replaced. It's a little sloppy. The back rear of the truck, however, sits about 2" higher than the front. What options are there to level everything out?

[jamesdart]

its going to come down. I have a rustys lift that is about 1 1/2 yr old and it leveled out. I didn't like the rake at first so I installed longer shackles on the front to give the front a little more lift.

[surfwagoneer]

My rear springs settled nicely after a month or so also. I also added bj's extended shackles up front (super easy) but at the same time added a 1" zero rate spring in the rear It may still have a slight rake but I like the look. With only extended shackles up front you should be very level.

[Owatonna]

Sounds like a cheap fix. (gotta like those!) I'll post a pic. Thanks for the input!

[Owatonna]

New Pro Comp 31x10.5 15's, Classic II's, Rusty's 4" Lift,

jeep resized.jpg

[surfwagoneer]

looking good! Is that with the extended shackles? Looks pretty level in that pic. I still have my old stock pizza cutter tires on right now. Can't wait to but some real rubber under there!

[Owatonna]

No shackles, actually that picture was taken after I finished the front springs and there is a floor jack under the back.

[TUDrewser]

New Pro Comp 31x10.5 15's, Classic II's, Rusty's 4" Lift,

jeep resized.jpg

My wife was convinced she didn't want to lift our new Wagoneer. I sent her some pictures of different height lifts, using this as the 4" example. Between this, 2", 6" and stock, this was her favorite! So thank you. Thank you very much. We are now shopping for a lift

[Owatonna]

Glad it helped. I guess a picture is worth a thousand words!

[jett1]

Looks great Owatonna

[quote="Owatonna"]New Pro Comp 31x10.5 15's, Classic II's, Rusty's 4" Lift,

[Owatonna]

...Leveled out after 1" shackles on front. Much better! TFI this weekend...

[pcoplin]

How bad did the shackles deaden the steering? Looking to do this to ours. The BJs sits a little higher in the back.

[Owatonna]

Not at all that I can tell. The only thing I may want to address is that the control arms could be longer. I won't be doing any heavy wheeling so I'm opting to leave them in place. I want to hang on to the old stock shackles until I drive it around for a while to see just how much the rear springs will settle.