The canister is absorbing the fumes, and recycling them. The tank is open to the atmosphere through the canister. You can't suck fuel from the tank without venting it somehow. I would not say "impossible" to delete the canister and not have a gas smell, but I can't see how it's possible.mpatch wrote:Sorry to hop in but I was asking about this a few months back, I got a used one and haven't hooked it up yet. But what is everyone doing that is not using one? My garage and car clearly has a gas odor to it? I would really like to see if there is another fix or way to get rid of the smell without the canister.
Or, as it actually occurred -- they didn't have one anywhere in stock, and referred me to the website, where I ordered one:carnuck wrote:The Napa guy you spoke with is either an idiot or he didn't understand whay you wanted.
CRB 220052 is the number you want.
hee hee hee, I love it!acct21 wrote:Or, as it actually occurred -- they didn't have one anywhere in stock, and referred me to the website, where I ordered one:carnuck wrote:The Napa guy you spoke with is either an idiot or he didn't understand whay you wanted.
CRB 220052 is the number you want.
Your order summary:
Item: Fuel Vapor Canister
Product Number: CRB 220052
Quantity: 1
Price: $35.99
Item Total: $35.99
=============================================
Subtotal: $35.99
Tax: $2.97
Shipping: $7.95
Total: $46.91
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And then canceled the order three days later stating the part was no longer available.
I thought they come with a nice hole in them already. Do you have an extra hole? I think that for the evap test, they pinch off that line to pressurize the tank to check for leaks. Seems like you could plug most any hole in a canister and paint it.87WAGGY wrote:Hi, new to the forum here! the charcoal canister has a nice hole in it.
I think it'd be a lot easier to use an off the shelf check valve from a farm / tractor supply store than trying to make a diaphram. You don't have to make it exactly like the factory unit, you just have to make it where it works, maybe you'll come up with a better design than the factory did. Someone mentioned AMC using Mopar parts, this is very true, Mopar and GM really, don't be afraid to experiment with different parts until you're satisfied with how it works. Look at the vapor canisters on old Ford trucks, you'd swear they were made from coffee cans. Take a page from Smokey Yunick and learn to innovate.Nutz-n-Bolts wrote:Hey Keith,
I've thought bout doing that. Well making my own anyway. It's not a very complex thing. The tough part is the rubber diaphragm that opens when it get ported vacuum. Creating this from scratch would be difficult. Getting the right spring pressure so that it opens in the proper vacuum. The bright side is, I think I found just the top valve portion that could be grafted on to the rest of a home brewed unit. Ok, well tried to search for the link on ebay, but it turns out that they are gone. (or i cant find right now) The one I was searching for looked exactly like the ours I saw some others that look different but may work for a franken canister.
I'd like to try this but since I found a working canister for my rig it's just not at the top of my list of things to do.
There is a filter pad, like a disk of glass wool, on the bottom of the factory canister, that can be replaced. Otherwise, they are not meant to be serviced.mpatch wrote:I am having my canister hooked back up today. Does anybody no if you can change the charcoal or if they have a filter that can be changed to assure it is still working? I got it used and feel that it lost lots of charcoal along the way.