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Over the last two years I have been trying to get my 89 Wagoneer California smog legal with some aftermarket parts. I currently have a an Edelbrock EGR equipped intake manifold (model #3731) and a Holley street avenger 4-barrell carburetor (model #080670) bolted on with all of the vacuum hoses in their right ports. I recently took it to a mechanic for a last stop tune-up and he sadly informed me that EGR is not activating because there is not ported vacuum connection on the carb. If its possible, can anyone PLEASE PLEASE respond with a way to properly hook it up, or if its possible to T off another vacuum hose. I also have a 1406 Edelbrock carb, and if its possible to hook up the EGR with that carb, i would GREATLY appreciate anyones knowledge. Thanks for your time gentlemen.
Thanks a lot for the quick replies @babywag, I currently have a vacuum line from the spark CTO switch (also t'd off to the "NON-LNR VLV") running to the timed spark vacuum port on the carb. Is it possible to t that line to the EGR valve to get it working properly? When I installed the carb, I tried my best to follow the original vacuum diagram and stayed away from t'ing off lines. Could it also be a bad dual CTO switch? i have owned the car for 12 years and have not replaced it. Thanks again for your time and knowledge.
Here is the link to my carb and the vacuum line diagram i have been referring to.
Agree about the visual. In California, a 4V on an '89 should not pass, regardless of the tailpipe emissions.
Re the ported vacuum, I'd guess you misunderstood. There are only two vacuum signals you can connect to - ported vacuum (where the carb throttle plate blocks the vacuum at idle) and manifold vacuum. If you connect your EGR to manifold vacuum, it will operate at idle, giving you a rough idle. But it will still function. Every carburetor has a ported vacuum tap - you can test it since the vacuum goes to zero at idle and is the same as manifold vacuum otherwise.
The loss of function has to be between the vacuum tap and the EGR valve. There ia a CTO (coolant temperature override) vacuum valve in the circuit, that cuts off vacuum to EGR when the engine is cold. Your engine also has to come up to operating temperature, ca 195F, for the CTO to open. If you have a cold thermostat in the engine, the EGR will not work.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
wagoneeer21 wrote:Thanks a lot for the quick replies @babywag, I currently have a vacuum line from the spark CTO switch (also t'd off to the "NON-LNR VLV") running to the timed spark vacuum port on the carb. Is it possible to t that line to the EGR valve to get it working properly? When I installed the carb, I tried my best to follow the original vacuum diagram and stayed away from t'ing off lines.
Test the ports on the carburetor with a vacuum gauge. Any port with vacuum that goes to near zero at idle (when the throttle plate is closed) is ported vacuum. Manifold vacuum will be strong at idle. If you only have one ported vacuum port on the carb, then you'll have to tee off all the devices that run on that type of vacuum from that port.
...Could it also be a bad dual CTO switch? ...
Yes, absolutely.
But don't guess. Get a vacuum gauge and measure. You know what changes the signal: temperature and off-idle.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
wagoneeer21 wrote:Thanks a lot for the quick replies @babywag, I currently have a vacuum line from the spark CTO switch (also t'd off to the "NON-LNR VLV") running to the timed spark vacuum port on the carb. Is it possible to t that line to the EGR valve to get it working properly? When I installed the carb, I tried my best to follow the original vacuum diagram and stayed away from t'ing off lines. Could it also be a bad dual CTO switch? i have owned the car for 12 years and have not replaced it. Thanks again for your time and knowledge.
Here is the link to my carb and the vacuum line diagram i have been referring to.
If you've got it hooked up like original...and using the stock aircleaner...??
On my '88 there was a small TVS vacuum switch in aircleaner, they're blue with 2 vacuum ports.
This little bugger was NOT allowing vacuum to reach my EGR valve. Couldn't find one to replace so I just bypassed it.
Passed w/ flying colors after this, failed miserably w/o EGR working.
Like tgreese stated, vacuum gauge (they're cheap), and test some things out.
When your mechanic checked it was the engine up to operating temp? Because if he didn't know where ported was guessing he might not be the brightest bulb on the tree?
Thanks again for the replies FSJ friends, I have the next three days off to check my previous work and refer to the advice you all provided. Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!