Full Size Jeep Network

Maybe I should hold off with the shackle reverse fabrication on the honcho because I simply don't know how you wouldn't bottom out that driveshaft into the tcase which basically means I must not understand what I'm doing.

OK, I don't mean to spread any doubt. We have been driving this thing off and on since 2000. The biggest work we have done is replace the tranny and QT. Haven't touched anything on the suspension. I don't understand it myself. It is a mystery machine.

Stuka wrote:

Blake wrote:

fulsizjeep wrote:The Waggy in the linked pictures has over 100k miles on the SOA, shackle reverse mods. It does have a long travel front drive shaft. No sway bar which I miss. The flex is sweet.

I DO NOT POLISH my QTs.

This is a long travel driveshaft??

Thats a very short travel drive shaft. REALLY surprised he has not broken that QT yet. With a rear shackle, the axle moves backwards as it travels up.

But if you see the springs are flat so the axle will be as far back as it is going to get, so should be more than ok.

Heres one--I sell this as a kit.

Mine:

husker77 wrote: Thats a very short travel drive shaft. REALLY surprised he has not broken that QT yet. With a rear shackle, the axle moves backwards as it travels up.

But if you see the springs are flat so the axle will be as far back as it is going to get, so should be more than ok.[/quote]

The fact that the exposed part of the shaft is silver tells you that it does bottom out. Otherwise it would be rusted. As the axle moves up, that shaft has to get shorter.

My guess is that it does bottom out, but in normal driving its not enough to cause damage to anything. But I do know a guy who is here local to me, that broke his QT in half because of a setup like this. He actually was off road, drove into a kind of ditch thing, and then had lots of really bad noises.

If I didn't know Flint, I would 100% for sure say he was full of chit. I personally wouldn't drive that rig 10 feet with that arrangement and I definitely wouldn't put pics on the internet using that as an example of shackle reverse/SOA.

But hey - I'm glad it works for him and I hope he continues to have good luck with it.

As for my build, I've removed both front hangers and I'm mocking things up. As of this moment in time, I'm thinking about scraping the whole shackle reverse idea and going to coilovers. Problem is, that will cost mega $$$ for heims/shocks/springs/etc.

Blake wrote:If I didn't know Flint, I would 100% for sure say he was full of chit. I personally wouldn't drive that rig 10 feet with that arrangement and I definitely wouldn't put pics on the internet using that as an example of shackle reverse/SOA.

But hey - I'm glad it works for him and I hope he continues to have good luck with it.

As for my build, I've removed both front hangers and I'm mocking things up. As of this moment in time, I'm thinking about scraping the whole shackle reverse idea and going to coilovers. Problem is, that will cost mega $$$ for heims/shocks/springs/etc.

If you do, be sure to check out BigJ200's thread. His setup is awesome.

http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... &start=120

http://www.customdriveshafts.com/ good FAQ"S concerning driveshafts

sonoraed wrote:http://www.customdriveshafts.com/ good FAQ"S concerning driveshafts

Love Tom Wood's drive shafts. I have one on my JK, extremely good quality. And the guy I spoke with on the phone really knew his stuff, which is refreshing in comparison to some other places I have called.

Im going to go ahead and tell you that ive destroyed 2 1350 cv driveshaft's (ground for 35 deg of angle) and my np208 thanks to maxing out the angles on droop. Take extra time to get your droop angles correct. A limit strap is an easy solution. O, and I use about 7-8" of slip in my front driveshaft with the shackle reversal, but only about an inch is in compression, since the springs are only 2" lift. Hence why the picture flint posted has been running like it is so long. I doubt that axle moves much at all in compression, but moves forward a ton in droop.

Sometimes up, sometimes down... depending on the terrain.

Hey flint. Any chance you can get a pic of the suspension compressed on the passenger side ? Driveshaft slip yoke. I wanna know how much (if any) that shaft slips rearward....

It might be Spring before I can do that. She is sitting right now with the dizzy pulled out. We have a Mallory HEI to put in it though.

Wow I would have never thought someone would just bolt the shackle into the rear leaf mount like that? Doing it that way a guy could probably run stock leafs and end up with a 4 inch lift by the time you drop the front down enough?

Id like to get the stock ride back in mine the front bounces terribly.

I have considered a reversal to help with the ride but I was planning to put a bushing in the frame etc.

Jeff from Iowa wrote:Wow I would have never thought someone would just bolt the shackle into the rear leaf mount like that? Doing it that way a guy could probably run stock leafs and end up with a 4 inch lift by the time you drop the front down enough?

Id like to get the stock ride back in mine the front bounces terribly.

I have considered a reversal to help with the ride but I was planning to put a bushing in the frame etc.

Im running a set of Chevy ProComp 6" springs with FSSR and original brackets. The Chevy springs have a centered pin moving the axle 1" towards center [gets the drag link away from the pitman arm]. It works great and only needed a 6 degree shim to correct Caster.
My FSSR kit provides 2.5" of lift with OEM springs.

j20brett wrote:Im going to go ahead and tell you that ive destroyed 2 1350 cv driveshaft's (ground for 35 deg of angle) and my np208 thanks to maxing out the angles on droop. Take extra time to get your droop angles correct. A limit strap is an easy solution. O, and I use about 7-8" of slip in my front driveshaft with the shackle reversal, but only about an inch is in compression, since the springs are only 2" lift. Hence why the picture flint posted has been running like it is so long. I doubt that axle moves much at all in compression, but moves forward a ton in droop.

Yeah, that is what I'm starting to think too. It doesn't require too much compression. Mostly droop. I like the idea of running limit straps.

Flints truck is living proof.



Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Update.

Shackle reverse on the Honcho has been completed minus getting a new front driveshaft.

First impression is that is definitely rides much smoother on the street and much smoother on bumpy dirt roads. It also has a little more nose dive when I slam on the brakes. Normal braking doesn't seem to have much (if any) more nose dive. It has got me to thinking about upgrading from Fox 2.0 to some 3.0's or 3.5's....

I'm gonna have my existing 1350CV front driveshaft modified to accept one of those really long travel / long slip driveshafts. Does anyone have recommendations on which brand/vendor to go with?

I am a big fan of Tom Wood's stuff. They are located in Ogden, UT. Not sure offhand how far that is from you, or if they are willing to modify an existing shaft. The shaft I have from them on my JK is really nice.

The guys that answer the phone know their stuff too. Or at least the ones I have spoken with have.

Pics are needed.