Full Size Jeep Network

Isn't that booster mounted sideways?

Ya that hydraulic booster totally looks sideways. haha

Yep 90 degrees off, posted wrong picture. Oh well, there's trial and error involved. I'll put the correct photo up tonight, the master is on it now as well.

1977ChiefLS3 wrote:Yep 90 degrees off, posted wrong picture. Oh well, there's trial and error involved. I'll put the correct photo up tonight, the master is on it now as well.

For those of you actually paying attention, the hydroboost and master cylinder correctly installed:

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Any particular reason that you went with the hydroboost on this swap? Is your LS a high compression version? My 6.0 is high compression and requires a hydro boost.

Hey Dustin - it's a 6.2. Just a test fit over the weekend. Passenger side exhaust manifold flange to pipe is a bit tight to the OEM axle bump stop bracket. I'm debating trimming or removing while the engine is back out. The only other issue is on the CTS-V accessories, the AC compressor clears but one of the lines will need a tight 90 deg. fitting and I went ahead and trimmed short the nearby shock tower bolt as it would have run interference with the AC fitting.

More on the engine once I finish up the install.

Interesting point on the hydroboost, I lucked into the decision then as yes higher compression and just chose hydroboost to upgrade braking (rear disc; new proportioning valve). Cheers Max

Dustin - What FSJ did you put the 6.0 into? You still have it or was it sold? What transmission and TC combo did you go with?

Chief LS3 it was a 6L80E trans and a Dana 300 TC. It convinced me never to do a Dana 300 again. I'm really not a big fan. And it is gone and sold.

I have a 4L80E with a 241C with passenger side drop. Curious how the crossmember issues will present. I should find out during the Thanksgiving break if I can get a family member to help out.

This is the Chief's new heart:

2887 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

2888 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

I went ahead and prepped it for paint.

3016 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

3017 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

As far as looks, this is going to be a bit circular as start with raw aluminium look, then black DTM primer, then base coat silver and clear coat. My engine bay is the OEM pewter silver and I wanted to preserve the aluminium look to contrast the pewter some, but wanted to make it easier to keep the engine clean.

3022 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

3023 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

3029 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

3032 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

I have had the 241C transfer case passenger drop for a while; full rebuilt and a JB Conversions SYE kit.

008 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

011 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

006 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

Converted to a 32 spline input to match up to a 4L80E

007 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

Wrapped the TC up and set aside for now.

002 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

I painted the accessory brackets the same black I plan to use for the interior. It's PPG product so same process of DTM primer and then color. It's an activated single stage with a matte finish, so no clear coat for this.

The accessories package is for the CTS-V (post-edit: I have the belt routed wrong here; from crank should go up to idler first then back down to alternator).

3039 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

1977ChiefLS3 wrote:

Everything is looking super sharp. Nice going! Did you need to do any refurbishing of the wiper motor besides paint? ...and along these lines, are you using the stock washer fluid squirter/pump or something modern?

The crate LS came with a flexplate for a 4L60/70E which have only 3 mounting tabs for the converter. I swapped out to a TCI #399754 which is SFI certified and has the 6 mounting tabs for the 4L80E converter

132 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

I also swapped out the oil pan to a 4WD truck pan, and its matching oil pickup, disptick tube and dipstick. The truck pan:

135 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

It really made a difference on clearing the front axle and center housing.

twisted frame wrote:

1977ChiefLS3 wrote:

Everything is looking super sharp. Nice going! Did you need to do any refurbishing of the wiper motor besides paint? ...and along these lines, are you using the stock washer fluid squirter/pump or something modern?

Thanks, appreciate the input. It's been lots of work and hours. I did 16 hours in the garage yesterday non-stop and the back is killing me this morning. Sometimes I want to rush through something to get to the end goal - on the road, but then I step back and remind myself I want daily driving reliability on par with today's trucks.

I opened up the washer motor case and cleaned up the insides; nothing really worn. California Jeep and I'm told it 'never rains in Southern California'. I installed new rubber mounts (can't remember where I found those ... think it was in a Sears Hardware store with several rows of bolts, fittings, etc. cabinets that is sadly closed down). Bench tested good and then tested after installed.

For the squirter motor, I did get a new one. It came with an aluminium tank sold by BJ's Offroad.

Early on in this build, I committed myself to a LS swap. The 'commitment' part came in the form of ordering up parts for the swap including radiator, fuel system, and engine mounts. I even welded in the engine mounts for good measure (they are bolt-in versions, with a weld across the top). That was > 2 years ago.

Back on page 3 and 4 of this thread, I posted photos of the completed frame with the engine mounts welded in. Member GaJeep94YJ posted that I had the wrong mounts. GaJeep94YJ had a 79 Chief with LS swap (same frame, pass. drop as 77 Chief). He ordered direct from Novak and was shipped MMSJ-G3. For his install, "these mounts will push the engine too far to the passenger side and interfere with the pass drop differential." He ended up having to redo all the work and install the MMX-WG3.

Turns out he was right!

GaJeep94YJ did his install about same time as I welded in my mounts. We may both have fallen to an uniformed Novak staff member or a bit confusing catalog.

So if you have a 1980-forward FSJ, with a driver's side drop, then yes you go with the simplified bolt-in (recommended top weld) Novak # NMMSJ-G3.

But if you have a 60s to 70s FSJ, you go with MMX-WG3. The MMX-WG3 mounts are welded in only (they won't line up to OEM holes) and are more complex / components that the later model. The good thing about the MMX-WG3 mounts is that they are adjustable (even after welded-in), notably from passenger to driver side and up and down. Whether you have a passenger or driver's drop, you can slide the motor either way.

Time to cut out the mounts, clean up the frame again, and weld in the correct mounts.

This is with the MMSJ-G3 (80-forward) mounts; you can see its pushing the motor over to the passenger side:

033 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

This is even with trimming the center housing bump stock mount to make room for the passenger manifold:

157 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr

It did have room on the driver side to shift over:

154 by Max Bouthillette, on Flickr