Full Size Jeep Network

For the doors, I would agree it is most likely the main door seal. BJ's also has them at the same price with free shipping.

http://www.bjsoffroad.com/OEM-Style-Doo ... _1890.html
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/OEM-Style-Doo ... _1891.html
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/OEM-Style-Doo ... _1893.html
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/OEM-Style-Doo ... _1892.html

I'd order everything from BJ's.
They support this site and give a discount to members (make sure to mention this forum on their "how did you hear about us" question on your first order).

TGW can be slow on shipping. They are legit, but there have been some issues with people getting their items in a timely manner.

For the tailgate, I would say you'll probably need everything. However, your access panel is off.

Even with good seals, a little water will come inside the gate itself. Especially at a high pressure car wash.
I'd wager that water might not have gotten in with the access panel closed and sealed.

If no sealant is on the cover, I'd use some stuff from a hardware store like this around the lip:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-20-ft-Blac ... ip/1099657

When installing, make sure the seam is at the top and not the bottom of the cover.

However, it is still probably a good time to do the rest of the tailgate.
You'll need these to get it right:
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/Inner-and-Out ... _1572.html
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/Tailgate-to-B ... _1571.html
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/Tailgate-Glas ... _1568.html

There is a good chance you will also need this:
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/Tailgate-Glas ... _1803.html

And a small chance you will need this:
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/Tailgate-Wind ... p_235.html

And a very remote chance you will need this:
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/Tailgate-Wind ... p_236.html

I'd wait to see if you need those items after you get the gate open.


If you need the last item (lifter channel), you can add the seal (previous link) and the clips on that page.
YOU WILL NEED THEM AS WELL IF ORDERING THE LIFTER CHANNEL, so get them.

Time to get that window working! It really isn't that difficult to troubleshoot.

finally found a decent clip of what to check on pooptube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Frnjqi2wuKI

skip to 3:15 where he starts by checking the fuses

Don't cut the motor wires like he did. Just unplug the motor and use some test leads to jump the terminals.

If you have one, you can also use a 12v cordless tool battery instead of lugging an auto battery to the back.

Todays fun find- the grey cap of the two leads to absolutely nowhere. The yellow cap ends up at a Y that has one end going to nowhere, and one end going to somewhere. So yellow seems in use (though technically it's not blocked off) and grey doesnt even have a reason to be there.



Also troubleshooting this linkage adjustment. I imagine it's one of those things thats WAY easier than I'm making it out to be, but I can't figure out what to adjust, and where it is. Rookie.



I THINK I color matched the parts on this diagram, except I have no idea what L Blue and R White are. They can't be the same thing- they're on opposite sides. Anyway, I think what needs adjusting is somewhere around here. I could pretty easily wiggle the Red bar going into the Green socket, dunno what that means. Back to the research!

Do you have emissions testing where you live?
Those are reverse delay valves.

Read up on the overcomplicated vacuum system here: http://tc.wagoneer.org/2012/08/fsj-v8-v ... uting.html

You can somewhat simplify it if you have emissions.

If you don't have emissions, you can simplify it like I did


Those valves are labeled R/Delay on the diagram.

We have emissions testing here, but I'm exempt because of the year of the car. Can I just get some new hose and hook it all up how it should be? Seems like the PO cut it but I can't figure out why he would've wanted to.

Yeah. If it is exempt, just bypass those stupid cto switches and direct run the lines like the pic shows if you still have the vapor canister.

Any harm in leaving it the way it is? I feel like the hoses should be closed up... I'm just curious.

Certain things need hooked up properly. I have minimal stuff hooked on mine.

Here is what I have hooked up.




It is the bare minimum. Make sure all hoses are good with no leaks.

New door seal installed, but water is still getting in. There was also a wet spot just in front of the glovebox on the carpet- coming from the middle of the headliner trim it looked like. Headliner is pulled ATM. I'm wondering if one of these corners is letting water trickle in and it's running down to the floor pan area. (yes, I have a LOT of paint touch up to do )

Looks like there may be a rust hole just above the windshield seal on drivers' side? Possibly more rust under weatherstrip?

Yea. Got some windshield sealant stuff and I'm hoping that works. In the mean time, got a friend to help me with this radio- so many fuses missing!!

No fuse in either clock slot, radio slot, front TG slot, or whatever the slot is above cruise control. It's unlabeled. (I took out the ACC LPS)

Those little slots won't have fuses.

Weeeeeellllll poop. Either way there's a wiring mess because the main power wire in supposed to hook the radio up to (yellow) has no power. And it was spliced into a red wire, then pink, then it disappears into dash oblivion.

In the mean time, I got started on the headliner. So far so good! And by that, I mean 'not bad for not having metal screws and trying pilot holes which worked until I broke ALL my drill bits'.

Did I mention I'm learning as I go?

Well, one of those is a masonry bit.... Another is made for wood only...

Hahaha I know. By the time I went through the others, I was thinking "F it- I have to buy new bits tomorrow anyway". Hitting the hardware store on my way home today. Buying things intended for metal (and some replacement wood bits).

memsiej wrote:No fuse in either clock slot, radio slot, front TG slot, or whatever the slot is above cruise control. It's unlabeled. (I took out the ACC LPS)

I only see one fuse missing. The clock items are for making a connection, not fuses.

Having been through my fair share of drill bits as well, just make sure you keep your drill on the lowest setting. Slow is the best application. Also, pick up some cutting oil or something similar and apply it to the bit every so often to keep the heat down and keep your bits from dulling etc.

Yea. I've been trying to focus on the support bars that run across the roof- I don't want to drill into the roof directly because I'm worried about it coming out the top. But those beams are darn sturdy. I'm sure there's a way better way to go about this.

Progress on the headliner. AND my friend got the radio working!! A successful day on the Jeep!

Replaced all the window wipes, indoor and out. Forgot to take 'after' pictures


My classy workshop


Radio installed!!! We had to button up the glovebox, so it's not a glovebox anymore. BUT I'm planning on building out the center console to be a storage/cupholder area. Worthy sacrifice for the radio, IMO.


And progress on the headliner! Still need to figure out the cleanest way to close some gaps. It's not perfect, but it's 'good enough'!!