Full Size Jeep Network

4.0L conversions are all the rage these days. Grab the parts from a cheap XJ and go to town, the conversion should really be pretty simple.


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Eventually thats the plan when the 2.5 inevitably grenades...or a 401

My two cents, the pattern you get wont look like the pictures in the manual--dont try. I once spent 4 hours trying to get my pattern to match what's in the book and it never did. The key is not to get the pattern in the center of the teeth but to make sure that the pattern isnt on any of the edges of the, root/toe/heel/Crown. Ive also had good luck with the original shims even with a new carrier. Because, the shims are to compensate for variations in the Casting process of the case not the carrier/gears. The carrier and gears are machined to very close tolerances.

rocklaurence wrote:My two cents, the pattern you get wont look like the pictures in the manual--dont try. I once spent 4 hours trying to get my pattern to match what's in the book and it never did. The key is not to get the pattern in the center of the teeth but to make sure that the pattern isnt on any of the edges of the, root/toe/heel/Crown. Ive also had good luck with the original shims even with a new carrier. Because, the shims are to compensate for variations in the Casting process of the case not the carrier/gears. The carrier and gears are machined to very close tolerances.

This. I place my old shims in zip lock bags and label them (inner/outer pinion and ring gear/carrier side of diff)

Even if I mangle them removing them, I have something to start from. I'll mic them and build a new stack very close to their specs.

As Rocklaurence said, the ring gears and carriers are machined very tightly. The cases aren't. So, 95% of the time your old shims will get you very close, if not spot on. It isn't uncommon to adjust one very thin shim somewhere.

And no, the textbook examples aren't real world. I try to find real pics of good and bad positions. After getting into the range for backlash, you simply want the center of the contact to be on good meat of the tooth and not near an edge or too deep into the ring gear.

Patience. We all have to suffer with it.

Just yesterday, I was trying to repair a bubble in the new woodgrain on my Jeep. It appeared a good 3 months after I had put it on. All the others had appeared within a week and were able to be repaired easily. This one wouldn't take. I had allowed the new paint to gas for a month (painted in early August). I decided I'd try to inject a little 3M 94 primer behind the vinyl with a syringe and push the vinyl back down. At first, it looked like success. But about 30 minutes later, I discovered the vinyl had reacted to the primer. It wrinkled up badly. Not repairable by any means. I was pissed at first, but calmed down and decided I'll wait till warmer weather (about 3 months) and just replace that panel. I ordered plenty from Metro Restyling, so I can do the repair. I had to remember, it was failing regardless.

I finally achieved a pattern today I am happy with so the center section is complete with the exception of torquing the caps and pinion nut. I have to bring my torque wrench home from work again so it has to wait until Monday night, then the cover can get bolted on and I can start acquiring the ball joints and shafts as money permits. Going with greasable moog ball joints and hardened shafts from Dutchman with Ox u-joints

A lot of people have had bad experiences with the Moog ball joints lately. There's been a lot of talk on IFSJA and a bit around here even about XRF ball joints. They really seem to be pretty tough. I have not bought anything from them (yet), but they'll be on the list next time I rebuild my front end.


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Cecil14 wrote:A lot of people have had bad experiences with the Moog ball joints lately. There's been a lot of talk on IFSJA and a bit around here even about XRF ball joints. They really seem to be pretty tough. I have not bought anything from them (yet), but they'll be on the list next time I rebuild my front end.


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I have always had good luck with Moog but have not used their ball joints in a while for anything. Good to know though. I will do some more research before I buy. Whatever joints I run I want them greaseable. I despise front end parts that I can't lubricate regularly. Where there isn't lube there is rust. I think thats why my MJ is so well preserved under the hood and chassis, it has oil everywhere from unrepaired leaks over the years by the previous owner. Too bad it wasn't on the body all those years haha

Preloads are set. Final bearings are pressed on. Contact pattern is beautiful (didn't take a pic, I was in GO mode, but its damn perfect). Everything is now torqued and the locker and bearings are marinating in a quart of gear oil. The new cover is on. This center section is DONE! Now its time to start saving up for everything from the shafts outward. I am so freakin pumped right now! It looks so beautiful

Glad you got it done!

You can also look at Dynatrac for ball joints.

I'll check them out in a few. Have you ever used those greaseable outer axle tube seals? I kinda like the idea of them but am worried if I buy them that aftermarket shafts won't work. Something like these
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2627924999

Most reviews I've read say they are good if mudding, but need to be periodically replaced and the tubes cleaned out as they can trap debris. Otherwise, just not needed.

I was mostly interested in them because of the road salt here during winter. I would rather replace a $30 pair of outer tube seals before replacing the inner seals.
I also just checked out those dynatrac ball joints but they only seem to come up for JK or the non-fsj jeeps TJ YJ XJ MJ WJ etc. Not sure if they are the same for FSJ or not. The more I stew on ball joints I am really leaning towards genuine Spicer ball joints. I won't be hammering the truck over rocks or any hardcore wheeling so they should hold up fine. Besides, for everyday use I bet they will outlive me. The only reason I want alloy shafts is because of the locker. Realistically the Detroits and the alloy shafts are probably overkill for what I want to use the truck for. I got a good deal on that front locker so the build direction of both diffs went from stock J20 axles to a more expensive overkill project than originally intended.

You can call Dynatrac, their support people are pretty knowledgable.

But OEM style ones should be fine for you. I have not had any issues with OEM models.

Great job and I can tell your proud that you got it nailed. However, Farm Tractor green--really

Rustoleum hunter green. Same color as the body. It looks alot lighter in the pic. I originally painted the housings black but decided to mix it up just to be different