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About to get off to a sierra trip... drive down the street for gas... press the brake pedal... sinks a bit lower with a pop... emergency brake lights on... at least the prop valve is doing its job... pissing from the hard line on the Driver's side hard drum line... at least I have spares...

Had the same thing happen in my J10 - to the line on the rear axle I had replaced the previous decade. Fortunately at low speed. Nicopp all around now.

At least it failed before you left. Breakage doesn't get much better than that.

I broke the main line just ahead of the rubber line on the rear test driving mine when I bought it lol

Never easy with all those rusty lines... at least I could cut off the lines and pop everything out.

Still missing some bits, the cylinder brake lever link is not provided with the wheel cylinder, but available locally.

Started to clean up the mess and installing new bits.

Here is the culprit, a tiny pin hole... that carriage is really rusty!
Still stuck at the prop valve Rear line fitting ... tried all the usual PB blaster, Kano oil, freeze off, now a little freeze with the inverted duster... and yes the flare wrench used is 14mm

mine were the same way, i used heat propane torch and they broke loose and i was able to save the lines, but replaced the valve assy as a precaution.

mine were the same way, i used heat propane torch and they broke loose and i was able to save the lines, but replaced the valve assy as a precaution.

Srdayflyer wrote: ↑Wed Aug 30, 2023 7:18 pm mine were the same way, i used heat propane torch and they broke loose and i was able to save the lines, but replaced the valve assy as a precaution.

Thank you for the heat idea, trying to avoid cooking all these wires and the prop valve.

The rear on the T at the axle were really tight... visegrips did the job.

Checking for local dry ice to chill the fitting!

you want to chill the nut not the fitting/p-valve you will cause it to contract tighter on the b-nut. a wet towel around anything that could melt can be protected and you can use the heat method or a heat gun you only have to get it fairly warm, not smoking hot

Srdayflyer wrote: ↑Thu Aug 31, 2023 3:00 pm you want to chill the nut not the fitting/p-valve you will cause it to contract tighter on the b-nut. a wet towel around anything that could melt can be protected and you can use the heat method or a heat gun you only have to get it fairly warm, not smoking hot

I did not think of the heat gun... that is an excellent approach, a lot easier than the following way.

I was going to dribble super cold alcohol (refrigerated with dry ice) on the nut via a squirt bottle, I practiced with cold alcohol so I can control the spill!

I used my hot air soldering iron... choice of various nozzle sizes... 300C, then 400C... not too sure if it did anything, the real solution was to slide the front driveshaft out of the way so I could slip the vise-grip... and pop it came loose, but there was so much rust that the line was turning with the nut... but it is out and the new line installed.
and the final product
Thank you for the heat gun solution