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Thanks yeller,
I'm going to pick it up today. What do you think would be the simplest solution for replacing the Buick 350? I would like to get this thing going, do some rust repair and simple spackle lift and be done enjoying some a/c this summer and fall.
1964 willys wagoneer
Om617 turbo diesel
Ax15
Dana 300
3.73 dana 27 front
3.73 dana 44 rear
The simplest is another Buick 350. Were you thinking of another drop-in engine to replace it? The Buick small blocks 225/231/300/340/350 have the same mounts and block pattern. The 225 and rear wheel drive 231 V6s are an option, but maybe not enough power. Anything else will require some adapting. What's your preference, and what are you up for?
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Tim is correct an other Buick is the simplest. If you really want to do something different that should be easy, a nailhead would be awesome. Another reasonably easy option is a small block Chevy, with 1st gen Camaro motor mounts you will have to modify the location of the through bolt on motor mounts bolted to the frame by about 1/2” wider. Also requires either a Chevy T400 or an adapter from the BOP pattern to the Chevy, same if you wanted an LS.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
If I went SBC, I would look for a Gen 1 donor with a TH400, maybe a rusty pickup? What's the story with the output shaft - can a Chevy TH400 be used without swapping the output shaft?
With the nailhead, I presume you'd remove the BOP adapter ring and use a passenger car convertor. Seems unlikely it would drop on the mounts - something would have to move, I'd think. And it's old, and old engines are expensive to rebuild. And how wide is it? Heater box and brake booster might interfere. Cool looking engine though, would give it a hot rod feel.
The Cadillac 472/500 was also popular a couple decades back. Bolts up to the Jeep BOP adapter, though you'd need to modify the mounts. Unlike other GM big blocks, it's narrow and fits the existing engine bay. Search on IFSJA if interested.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
S&J Engine has rebuilt Buick 350's for $2,400 ish.... and they are in Washington state
1970 - 1971 Buick GM Jeep 350 C.I. 5.7L OHV 2v V8; Iron Engine Block; Iron Cylinder Heads; Bore 3.850"; Stroke 3.850"; Compression Ratio 9.0:1 -10.25:1 (Build-Dependent); Horsepower 250-315 @ 4800 rpm; Torque 355-410 @ 3200 rpm (typical; Build-Dependent); Professional Installation Recommended
In few ways it's not as bad as my 64 but in many ways not nearly as good either though.
Nailhead would be super cool. But I don't know if that's an option or here in Oklahoma, worth looking into.
Rebuilding is certainly not an option, I can see straight through the block it has port holes on both sides of the block.
I'm gonna keep my options open, the body rot is fairly bad. I do see a spring over in it's future and cut fenders.
I noticed after getting it home the brake pedal assembly is completely missing and someone cut the column harness and the master cylinder push rod when it was removed.
But did I mention it has air conditioning.
I still like it, but I'm feeling a bit of whores remorse only I didn't get paid.
I like the first Gen Chevy and truck th400 idea, should be able to source those items easily. I hope.
But
my buddy has a CJ that he is wanting to ls swap so a 304 is available and I have my old t18 I would just need clutch stuff gonna need a new pedal assembly anyhow....
Lots of great ideas guys thank you I've got a lot to consider.
1964 willys wagoneer
Om617 turbo diesel
Ax15
Dana 300
3.73 dana 27 front
3.73 dana 44 rear
We’re on a shed, barn and shop cleaning spree, I’ll holler if I stumble on something interesting. Lots of treasures that we’ve forgotten about or decided we’re never gunna use lol
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
If the drivetrain's totally shot, probably the most bang for your buck IMO is the LS swap, esp if you can find one for a reasonable price.
Personally I think it would be cool to do a Coyote or a Hurricrate, but that's just me...lots of wiring with all 3 of these options, and a manual+tcase might be a hassle on the latter two.
If you can find a rotted out '88-92 Suburban or K5 Blazer, you should be able to reclock the tcase and bolt that drivetrain in pretty easily--TBI would be included as well as an OD automatic. Might be a cheap option.