Full Size Jeep Network

We are in the process of buttoning up little details and have noticed that the clutch push rod has been welded twice on our 69 Gladiator project. I believe the tranny is a 14 or 15 bolted to a 232 . The PO bolted a 2" block behind the clutch pedal.So i am assuming the rod isn't right I know the clutch is almost brand new. I would like to make up a new rod but have idea what the original length was.

I have made the clutch rods on my J10 and Cherokee. I used 3/8" all thread with heims on each end so that there is some adjustment.


Sent from my iPhone 5S using Tapatalk

Here's what I went with to replace the hack job some PO made. I ordered it from JBFab.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac14 ... 629717.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oops, I meant this one:

http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac14 ... inkage.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stuka wrote:I have made the clutch rods on my J10 and Cherokee. I used 3/8" all thread with heims on each end so that there is some adjustment.


Sent from my iPhone 5S using Tapatalk

I did the Heim joints on my J10 and CJ-6 too. I could write up the J10 clutch linkage upgrade if anyone is interested. No all-thread; use the original rods.

For me the original rods both broke. Never had an issue with the larger diameter all thread.

The PO of my J10 was handy, but cheap. he drilled through the ball joints of the original rods and put bolts through the rod ends, where the ball joint was. This worked, but the Heim joints are smoother. Usually the joint of the rod that presses against the throwout arm wears out, and the rod by the bell housing falls off and often is lost.

I used two of the 60645K451 http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rod-ends/=tcl1em 7/16"-20 female rod ends. The material of the original rod is 7/16" diameter (CJs are 3/8"), so I ground off the orignal ends, shortened the rods a little to preserve the original length, threaded the end of the rods, and screwed on the new joints. I bought a 7/16"-20 die from Grainger locally for about $5. I did not replace the joint under the dash, since it seemed to be in good condition and does not suffer from the elements like the two joints down by the bellcrank. The threaded ends of the original joints are 3/8" diameter, so I had to enlarge the holes in the bellcrank arms slightly to accommodate the new 7/16" joints.

Our rod has a adjustable ball in the end that fits into the throwout bearing fork which is held in by spring tension. The other end has a loop. So I dont think two Heim joints will work.

69gladiator wrote:Our rod has a adjustable ball in the end that fits into the throwout bearing fork which is held in by spring tension. The other end has a loop. So I dont think two Heim joints will work.

Stuka is talking about the one from the pedal to the bell crank. He built his the same way I did mine

I actually built both sides. Pedal to the bell crank, and bell crank to the clutch fork. I can take a photo tonight when I get home.

Thanks. Since the fork portion(outside) on the rod has been welded in two places, I am just not sure how long the original was. I would be most appreciative If anyone can give me an approx length.

Forgot to take a photo, will try and remember tomorrow

Hey Stuka-Do have any idea why the PO bolted a 2" block to the floor under the clutch pedal ? Thats why I want to make sure I make the rod up the exact length. Something does not seem right.

It means either the rods are the wrong length, or the bell crank is wrong.

Its tough when you dont have a vehicle to look at to compare components. There is not an abundance of FSJs in our area. Most are rusted heaps.

Ok so here are mine. But I just noticed that since I have an i6, the length of that lower rod won't work for you most likely.

And I just realized I put that rod on backwards last time I took it off. Should be on the other side of the bell crank arm.

Arm going to clutch fork:


Same arm with flash and no tape measure:


Under the dash:



Sent from my iPhone 5S using Tapatalk

Thanks so much for the photos. We have a 232. I did not crawl under the truck yet to compare the bell cranks. After looking at your linkage, I think the rod may be too long. Thus, necessitating the block under the pedal.

Oh if you have a 232 it should be close. Different Trans, but that should not be much of a difference.

I am thinking both may be too long resulting in the pedal being too high to start with.


Sent from my iPhone 5S using Tapatalk

Yeah I agree. Its perplexing. I was hoping that someone would chime in with an idea.

My son and I have made a spiffy new linkage rod, complete with a heim joint. We are having an issue trying to hold the ball bearing into the ball socket/stud behind the clutch fork. I was told to load it up with grease and the pressure of the fork and linkage will hold it in. It is very hard to fit my fingers in there. Forget installing the dust boot. Someone else told me that there is a loose coiled spring that holds the ball into the socket. If this spring exists, we don't have it. The TSM shows nothing useful. Would JB Weld be inappropriate? The fork would still swivel on the ball.