Doing ball joints, few questions

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Topic author
candymancan
Posts: 3652
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 11:32 pm

Doing ball joints, few questions

Post by candymancan »

Question for you guys, i need to do the lower ball joint on the passenger side, the u joint on the axle shaft has play as well and i think thats where my TINK noise is comming from when i hit it in reverse or drive. I dont have alot of money ATM not after spending probly $1500 on other repairs/upgrades on the Jeep or so much the last month and my Pinched nerve i had

But to pass state inspection. And to keep my new tires from wearing (because i am already noticing this side wearing differently) and well so i dont have my wheel fall off, i need to tackle this ball joint. I know i should be doing the upper as well and the spindle bearings and the axle seals and yada yada but I cant buy a couple hundred dollars in parts right now. I did do the inner and outer wheel bearings/races and seals 3-4 years ago so I will at least re-grease those bearings.


This how to link http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=101152 is pretty straight foward, however the question i have is this, the upper join has a split ring washer which needs a tool. Do i need to worry about this washer and buy this tool if im just doing the lower ball joint ? I know i gatta remove the knuckle to get to the ball joint pressing tool in there to remove the lower joint but im assuming if i dont touch the upper joint that i dont have to worry about this washer and tool for it. Just put the nuckle back in and castle nut back on and torque it right ?


Again i know i should do the spindle bearing and the seal and the upper joint while im in here, but between both joints, the bearing, the seal, the tool i need for the washer if i do the upper joint, the u joint and yada yada itll be a couple hundred $ that i dont have. Plus the upper joint isnt bad, and the spindle bearing i hear nothing when driving. Its just the lower joint and axle shaft u joint that are bad.

If i have too down the road do the upper joint than thats on me to take it apart again, but i just gatta get this safe and pass the stupid state inspection before the end of the month. Thanks for the advice in advance. Oh and does anyone have a good recomendation on a new steering stabilizer ? Mine has been leaking for years and while i dont notice any bump steer, i figure i should replace that since its easy and can contribute to tire wear


Side note

I hate state inspections man virginia was suppose to get rid of em this year, but instead they voted to increase the price of them and now increased our vehicle properly taxes too.... F man.. i understand their purpose but its crazy how much work ive done to this Jeep as alot of you know, yet i see cars falling apart with holes in the body, bottomed out suspensions, and holes in the exhausts and just everything is falling apart, Yet they have good stickers.. And i fail for dumb things like a light bulbs or something. I know the ball joint isnt " dumb" but i hate how much work i have to do, to do things right and these people get stickers on their Junk.. frustrating man,

If i didnt drive this thing so much daily, i would get the antique tags on it so i dont have to worry about being rushed on repairing something as the antique tags dont need inspection, my ZJ will 23 soon, 2 more years and i could get antique tags on both of em.. Almost considering doing that and splitting the driving time between the two so i dont get in trouble lol
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)

SJTD
Posts: 1924
Joined: Tue May 21, 2013 12:02 pm
Location: Lompoc, Sunland or somewhere between

Re: Doing ball joints, few questions

Post by SJTD »

You need the tool. As I recall it isn't a washer, it's a split nut, tapered on the inside. On assembly you back out that tapered seat, install the knuckle assy, torque the lower ball joint, then screw in the upper seat to the proper torque and torque torque the top nut. But that was a D44 from an F250. Maybe yours is different?

If you don't back the upper seat out the upper joint may seat before the lower. Then you'll put tension on the lower when you torque it and it won't seat properly internally. Might even start pulling apart though unlikely.

Or if the lower seats first you'd put tension on the upper.

I made a tool by cutting a piece of tubing to make the four teeth and welding it to a socket. Maybe could make one by notching a deep socket.

Prolly could get it on ebay or Amazon nowadays.

Good luck getting the taper on the joints to release. The upper you can wail on the joint directly. Removing the nut and applylng your favorite rusty nut secrete stuff ahead of time might help since it's a split bushing in there. When it's time make sure you turn the nut over so you don't mushroom the joint.

On the lower, since you can't hit the top of the joint, use two big hammers. Hit both sides of the C on the axle AT THE SAME TIME. You can tell by the sound and how they rebound when you get it just right. Keep at it. Tap. Tap. Tap. Until it lets go. Might be wise to do it on the upper also.

But you live in the salt belt, right? May never come out. :lol:

Lotta work. I'd do both and maybe the spindle bearing and seal at the same time. yaddayadda
Sic friatur crustulum

'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

Topic author
candymancan
Posts: 3652
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 11:32 pm

Re: Doing ball joints, few questions

Post by candymancan »

Well I live in the salt belt yes. Virginia loves its salt brine when we get half an inch of snow. But i dont drive this thing when that stuff is on the road. Ive delt with too much rust on it to have it come back lol.

But this Jeep was in wv exposed to salt gense why it had so much rust and why the leaf springs before i replaced them were inverted upside down with gaps between the springs lol. Salt does that to springs.

Anyway. I guess ill try to save up for the upper joint the tool and lower ball joint. I wonder if i can find an inspector that will let me slide on the ball joint if i tell him ill get to it. And show him what ive done to the Jeep in repairs. Maybe hell let me slide lol.

Its happened before.
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
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