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81 Wag, good battery, new solenoid, new NNS, new ignition switch (under the dash, on the column), won't crank but inst. lights.
Will crank and start by jumping starter side of solenoid with ignition in run position.
What am I missing? Thanks, bunkey
Neutral safety switch? I replaced mine and still had that issue. Circuit never closed. Not sure what the fix is on that but the starter relay can be jumped to override the NSS.
Probably this is something you have checked already but my 84 J10 would not crank in Park. My father in law would hit the shifter and it would start. Turns out the transmission linkage was out of adjustment. After adjustment, it was starting regularly but must have slipped a bit as It now it does not starts on a rare occasion in park. When t does not, it will start in neutral and after shifting into drive and bac to Park.
J10 1984, very stock with AMC 258.
Truck appears to have been rebuilt or restored at one time
Unfortunately the quality of electro-mechanical parts coming out of the aftermarket these days is pretty deplorable. I would suspect the NSS even though you just replaced it. If that's not the problem, it's almost got to be a wiring issue. If the NSS checks out, you could try running a redundant wire (just run it out the window and over the fender for testing purposes) from the output side of the NSS directly to the solenoid signal post. If it starts, route a permanent wire, cut both ends of the old one to avoid letting it short out somewhere, and you're good to go.
With your foot firmly on the brake. Turn the key and then move the gear selector and see if it starts to crank. If it does, it's an adjustment problem with the NSS.
Greasemonkey77 wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 9:00 am
Unfortunately the quality of electro-mechanical parts coming out of the aftermarket these days is pretty deplorable. I would suspect the NSS even though you just replaced it. If that's not the problem, it's almost got to be a wiring issue. If the NSS checks out, you could try running a redundant wire (just run it out the window and over the fender for testing purposes) from the output side of the NSS directly to the solenoid signal post. If it starts, route a permanent wire, cut both ends of the old one to avoid letting it short out somewhere, and you're good to go.
same here after 2 replacements, various adjustment, the coat hanger method was getting odd, so was popping the hood up and hot wiring the solenoid... I installed a starting push button ...
there are 2 version of switches, w or wo tilt column
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Not familiar with the mechanism in the column, I wonder if there is a rod assembly that engages the NSS below from the shifter rod above, perhaps is out of alignment or broke?
Creating the elec Open condition.