Sniper / Hyperspark conversion

[ArchitectJS]

Ok- I think i'm gonna convert from my Nutter/2100 to Holley Sniper/Hyperspark. I hope it will make my life a little easier and help me (as a noob) to diagnose what's next.

Aside from those two kits, I was planning on adding the Lokar TV linkage, throttle cable and bracket for the Sniper. Any other miscellany that I don't know about that I need. My BIL will fly up to help me and I don't want to get stymied with something missing.

BTW;

Edit ( mechanical fuel pump ) figured that out
Edit ( existing fuel return ) silly question
Do we have an existing O2 sensor location, or is this a new fabrication?
Whats up with removing the old distributor? rotating harmonic balancer? I don't remember any markings on it when I did the timing chain.

PS; has anybody replaced the shift linkage with a lokar cable? is this even a good idea? Is the existing system better?

[tgreese]

There's no "factory" O2 sensor location that I've been able to locate. Get the bung and go to your local custom muffler shop for installation. The bung may come with the kit, and the kit should include instructions.

Re the distributor, technically it does not matter where you position the distributor when you remove it, as long as you put the new distributor back in the same place. I would turn the engine so the TDC mark on the dampener was aligned with the pointer on the timing cover, and the distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire. Sight along the rotor and make some kind of mark (tape, line on the wall, whatever) so you can install the new distributor pointing in exactly the same direction as the original.

[ArchitectJS]

Thanks for the reply.

What about the EGR? PO removed it. With the TBI does it need to be restored?
(No emissions to worry about here)

[DARREN LILLY]

the hyperspark came out after the sniper & instructions for the self tuning can be different & not include the hyperspark option if you buy an older sniper kit, this is what happened to me & was the response from holley along with the missing data input that you will need for the hyperspark. The kit has an egr supplied that you can clamp on or weld on. I had to replace my battery & alternator as well as unit needs to be a minimum constant 12 volts mine was reading 12.1v steady but would flucuate up so I presume it could go down as well, mine cut out few times so hope this was the cause as the meter now shows just below 13v. you will need a holley coil & ignition module so the system can communicate, this is for a 360

[1979bettywhite]

the hyperspark came out after the sniper & instructions for the self tuning can be different & not include the hyperspark option if you buy an older sniper kit, this is what happened to me & was the response from holley along with the missing data input that you will need for the hyperspark. The kit has an egr supplied that you can clamp on or weld on. I had to replace my battery & alternator as well as unit needs to be a minimum constant 12 volts mine was reading 12.1v steady but would flucuate up so I presume it could go down as well, mine cut out few times so hope this was the cause as the meter now shows just below 13v. you will need a holley coil & ignition module so the system can communicate, this is for a 360

I agree, the Holley Sniper system does like to have a good solid 12V. So if you are on an OEM based output alternator, and you like to run different items, you may want to think about upgrading. Which may lead you down another path of potential changes if you have not bypassed the ammeter yet.

Are you going 4bbl or 2bbl model of the Sniper? If going with the 4bbl, I would suggest the progressive linkage from EFI Pros (https://www.efisystempro.com/sniper/sni ... inkage-kit). I went with the fixed progressive for mine, but if you want to further dial in where the second set of barrels comes on, you can go with the adjustable. Mine comes on right around 45%-50% throttle input. But a progressive linkage on the 4bbl model is night and day from the fixed linkage that comes with the system in terms of pedal feel and drivability.

Last but not least, you may need to modify your pickup tube in your tank if you have an aftermarket pickup (non-OEM) as they don't usually reach the bottom of the tank. Fuel slosh and low fuel will leave you stranded when swapping to fuel injection.

[ArchitectJS]

I have an original 2bbl intake so figured I’d go with that. Pre-reading instructions thought I saw the EGR wasn’t necessary.

Pick up tube - check. Ammeter, ugh

[tgreese]

Regarding the EGR, keeping it will reduce your NOx emissions. The EGR's purpose is to dilute the charge with exhaust gas; that is, same "air" (actually O2) to fuel ratio, but diluted with inert exhaust gas. This reduces the combustion temperature and thereby reduces the high-temp "burning" of nitrogen from the air.

Whether you keep it or not depends on what you want from the engine. The Howell CARB-approved TBI kit keeps the EGR so the result will be emissions compliant everywhere in the country. You could look at the Howel instructions and copy their config if you want ... Holley likely gives you no advice because they make no claim that their TBI will be emissions-compliant anywhere.

[ArchitectJS]

What about the idea about the hyperspark gear and cam gear being compatible? Anything to worry about here? I believe my cam is stock

[weeegoneeer]

What about the idea about the hyperspark gear and cam gear being compatible? Anything to worry about here? I believe my cam is stock

Use the existing distributor gear to prevent potential problems. It's mounted to the shaft with a roll pin, you should be able to tap it out to swap gears.

[ArchitectJS]

Use the existing distributor gear to prevent potential problems. It's mounted to the shaft with a roll pin, you should be able to tap it out to swap gears.

You'll turn me into a mechanic, yet!

[ArchitectJS]

New exhaust manifold. Re-used intake, freshly painted. All bolted back on and torqued down.

Should there be a gasket between the flange on the front pipe and the exhaust mani?

[tgreese]

Depends on the manifold. This is an '81 or newer manifold, and I expect it has the curved sealing surface cast-in to where it mates with the pipe. No gasket between the exhaust manifold and head, no gasket between the exhaust manifold and pipe.

You can put a gasket in between the head and the exhaust manifold if you want, but it will blow out eventually. Leaks at this location are a particular problem with the inline sixes.

Ooh, shiny!