Sounds good. Just want reply saying your advice was influentialSJTD wrote:I'm not familiar with how HB works, Rock is.
I'd look into his suggestion.
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Sounds good. Just want reply saying your advice was influentialSJTD wrote:I'm not familiar with how HB works, Rock is.
I'd look into his suggestion.
@Rocklaurence - I followed instructions up to accelerate and idle. They drag. In fact when I spin with hand, the tire stops almost instant. Did not touch brakes.rocklaurence wrote:Hydro boost valve leaking pressure to the front brakes. Lift the front wheels off the ground and run the motor[not in gear]-dont touch the brakes. Accelerate, idle etc all while checking the front tires to see if the brakes start dragging. If the brake arent dragging, activate the brakes several times over a 5-10 minute period and see if that causes the brakes to drag. It has to be that the pressure is building up or not releasing.
I wonder if i would lose breaks as the my hydro is connected to the PS Pump?
I def see where you are coming from and I know there was a lot of info I think, I say "I think" because I still have not solved the is issue, but when I press the brake, it brakes. The pistons push out and touch the pads and then rotor. Doing what it supposed to, I would say HB is as well. Pushing pedal creates a harder brake, releasing creates no braking. Here is where I am stumped, when releasing the brake, the pistons do not retract all the way, therefore drag, heat accumulation and its translating to the hub, rotor, lug nuts, etc. That is where I landed on the thought of calipers. Unless I take off the calipers and reseat the piston, it will stay in "drag" mode. I though I had bad calipers/lemons, so I switched them out and bled the brakes. We were good for a drive then rinse and repeat.SJTD wrote: ↑Sun May 23, 2021 10:06 pm I don't think the calipers are the problem. HB is just another way to assist braking. Yeah, maybe more power but lotsa guys do the swap without issues. Seems to be a defective booster if like Rock said if they apply without you touching the pedal.
Running with the belt removed would be like driving with the engine off with vacuum power brakes. They'll still work but the effort required to stop will be greater. And no power steering.
Or if you're uncomfortable driving like that, jack up the front again, engine off, push on the brakes. Do they release properly? You've probably done this and they worked ok but I don't remember.
I agree with you and i think that might be going on. my next step for sure. Check this article out. its was very informative and the rod is part of the steps to diagnose the problem.SJTD wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 10:19 am So with the engine off you apply the brakes and they don't release properly? If so then I don't see it being the HB
This reminds me of a problem I had with a Dasher many moons ago. Installed a new master, drove to work 15 miles or so, last 5 being a bit of city then up a mountain. Started home and after 2 or 3 on the freeway coming home the fronts were dragging so bad I could hardly move when I pulled over.
Turns out the actuating rod was a bit to long so the spill port in the master didn't get uncovered properly and pressure built up.
Something like this maybe going on?
YES, it could be this too. Another idea, with the engine running give it time for the brakes to start dragging. Then [safely] open the bleeder valve on the caliper. There should be little to no pressure on the fluid. If you get a Big squirt [like when bleeding your brakes], thats a problem. To re-afirm the test, tighten the bleeder and wait a few minutes and then open the bleeder again to see if it builds up again.SJTD wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 10:19 am So with the engine off you apply the brakes and they don't release properly? If so then I don't see it being the HB
This reminds me of a problem I had with a Dasher many moons ago. Installed a new master, drove to work 15 miles or so, last 5 being a bit of city then up a mountain. Started home and after 2 or 3 on the freeway coming home the fronts were dragging so bad I could hardly move when I pulled over.
Turns out the actuating rod was a bit to long so the spill port in the master did't get uncovered properly and pressure built up.
Something like this maybe going on?
Ok guys - I think we might have struck some gold... Need your opinions on the results and pictures.rocklaurence wrote: ↑Tue May 25, 2021 12:09 pmYES, it could be this too. Another idea, with the engine running give it time for the brakes to start dragging. Then [safely] open the bleeder valve on the caliper. There should be little to no pressure on the fluid. If you get a Big squirt [like when bleeding your brakes], thats a problem. To re-afirm the test, tighten the bleeder and wait a few minutes and then open the bleeder again to see if it builds up again.SJTD wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 10:19 am So with the engine off you apply the brakes and they don't release properly? If so then I don't see it being the HB
This reminds me of a problem I had with a Dasher many moons ago. Installed a new master, drove to work 15 miles or so, last 5 being a bit of city then up a mountain. Started home and after 2 or 3 on the freeway coming home the fronts were dragging so bad I could hardly move when I pulled over.
Turns out the actuating rod was a bit to long so the spill port in the master did't get uncovered properly and pressure built up.
Something like this maybe going on?