Thanks! I like that “self-applying rust proof” label! Hahaha.Chubbinius wrote:Those back ends look great in the shop, especially with the little touch of snow! Isn't that the unlisted "self-applying rust-proofing" feature of the steering box?
Can't wait to hear about the shakedown run!
So true! Despite the coating of self-applying rust inhibitor, it steered remarkably well up and down the driveway.SJTD wrote:Looks a lot like undercoating.
Thanks- I appreciate it.Chubbinius wrote:Love that FC! Happy to see it running, even if just up and down the drive!
That’s a good idea. I’m torn between leaving it as she sits (with a wet sand, then clear coat), or bite the bullet and do what’s necessary to the metal work overall and repaint her.jaber wrote:Maybe bed liner on both surfaces before reassembling?
Awesome as usual...
Whoa. That’s really good information. So, a can of linseed oil? I’ve used boiled linseed oil in the past for woodworking projects.Yeller wrote:If you leave it instead of clear coat use linseed oil. It penetrates and seals preserving what is there. If it is just a Sunday afternoon fair weather go get ice cream driver and stored inside, tongue oil does the same but just preserves it linseed oil keeps it sealed, is washable and weather resistant. From my experience just clearing doesn’t stop rust, it just feeds it.
Wow, thank you- I’ll dial in these dang brakes, and get to mixing! Thank you for the info!Yeller wrote:Yes boiled linseed oil. If putting it on when it’s not summer time cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits so it will dry faster. I find on my daily driver I can get 2 years out of it between applications. I always apply it in the summer so I use it full strength.
I also have a lot of steel rail fence. I coat it with linseed oil and after it’s dry paint it. Acts like a primer and stops the rust under the paint.
They’re something special alright. What a nightmare!Yeller wrote:Your welcome
Those brakes are quite special… WOW
That’s the million dollar question (and was my first thought!) but this kit has a 1” bore diameter which is comparable to the j20, and 1/8” less the the k30, so it should be enough to work the brakes of both axles... but maybe not.Yeller wrote:Did you change the master cylinder to match the axles? If not the bore may be too small to move enough fluid to make the brakes work properly. If it is too small a residual pressure valve will help a little bit probably not solve the problem.