a bit late, yes sanding with 220 grit to start investigating the thickness of bondo and its adhesion, the pict is not too clear on how much bondo has been added. Bondo absorb water, so if it is not primed and painted, it will fail.volkswaben wrote:Anybody have any ideas on how to redo this area with bondo? The bondo has tiny cracks in it and is unattractive.
I'll have to try that when I'm done with the other stuff. Thanks!letank wrote:a bit late, yes sanding with 220 grit to start investigating the thickness of bondo and its adhesion, the pict is not too clear on how much bondo has been added. Bondo absorb water, so if it is not primed and painted, it will fail.volkswaben wrote:Anybody have any ideas on how to redo this area with bondo? The bondo has tiny cracks in it and is unattractive.
As for paint, yours looks a bit off luster, you can try to mix some rustoleum paint that sells in small cans, white with a dab of light brown from the tint section of any homeimprovement store.
So you can try to find some sand color matte from the rustoleum catalog,
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catal ... amel-spray
OSH in Calif seems to have a good sampling, I found an almost match for the old 74 light blue... and mix some for the dark blue 85 with an acceptable 6 footer
The previous rust fix around the gas filler is failing, fix was done, the above is an older pict
X2 as Redone said, check that post for ways to address one of the possibilitiesREDONE wrote:That's not the doorseals that rotted out the floor (though they may have gone bad since then). If you look at the kick panel in front of the door there's an oval shaped vent. It gets fed air from the slots right in front of the windshield. Pine needles and leaves fall through those slots, rain carries them down past that oval kick panel vent and plugs up the drain hole. Water backs up and rots out the floors.
Sucks about the floor, but you're not the first one of us that's had to deal with it and I'd be thrilled if you were the last!
I will look into that, that is most likely the culprit as I found a literal composting pile in the tailgate.REDONE wrote:That's not the doorseals that rotted out the floor (though they may have gone bad since then). If you look at the kick panel in front of the door there's an oval shaped vent. It gets fed air from the slots right in front of the windshield. Pine needles and leaves fall through those slots, rain carries them down past that oval kick panel vent and plugs up the drain hole. Water backs up and rots out the floors.
Sucks about the floor, but you're not the first one of us that's had to deal with it and I'd be thrilled if you were the last!
I am going to do the same, I'm trying to get it as quiet and comfortable as possible. I used most of one box for the roof, and then had a bit leftover to start the rear quarter panels. 2 boxes should be enough for the doors and roof I'd think. I bought the same amount of closed cell foam as deadener to apply over. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B75PD8B/re ... FEbWDC25YCsirrus wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 10:04 am Looks good! I’m about to start putting sound deadening on my rig soon, waiting for warmer weather now. I want to do roof, doors, floor, cargo area and tailgate- basically everything what are your plans with soundproofing?
Wasn’t sure how much I’d need, so decided to go box by box - got my first 36 sq ft order, I’ll start with the doors and then move onto the roof. Looks like I’ll have to get another box to get both done, huh?
Thanks! I went through just about 3.5 boxes of 36sq ft for the doors, roof, floor, and quarter panels (enough left over for the tailgate when I get to that). The doors were actually surprisingly easier than I thought they'd be. Plenty of room to reach the whole thing and even get the roller in for most of it. I put the foam over the deadener in the doors as well with plenty of room. I'll post some pics tomorrow of that.sirrus wrote: ↑Wed Apr 01, 2020 10:13 pm Good progress!
How much material did it take for the floor? And how difficult was it with doors? We’re you able to cover the whole door on the inside? Are you going to put foam in the doors?
Lot of questions- I’m still in a waiting stage, between it raining and being 40 degrees outside and my hand slowly recovering after surgery, so trying to figure as much as I can before I’m able to start
Thanks! It probably would be possible to remove it, but not easily. It uses a sticky tar like backing.Trosskyll wrote: ↑Wed Apr 01, 2020 11:21 pm - Nice job you are making of the inside! I am impressed. Thanks for posting about the sound deadening as I was wondering if I should consider it for my restoration, so I will look into it more closely. One of my concerns is about trying to remove it, or at least a section of it in the future if ever the need for repair crops up? You might say if I do the resto' right the first time, then it won't be my problem... Great to see your work in progress