1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

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Topic author
irondawg
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:13 pm
Location: Leander, TX

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by irondawg »

Next up was the transmission. I sourced one from American Transmission that was rebuilt to 6L90 specs for a 540 max HP. More than enough...for now. But I screwed up. They require a VIN number and I ended up giving them a 2wd VIN that I had vs the 4wd. They would take it back but I would have to pay for shipping both ways. There's plenty of articles and videos on how to take a 2wd and convert to 4wd. I voided the warranty but that didn't matter because I had no core. So it worked out to me saving core charge and shipping (2x) and only losing 1y of warranty.

So I followed the conversion, cut the output shaft, install output seal, and plug two holes. Simple process. But first I had to find a 4wd housing that took a long time. There's like 5 different housings and I finding the right one took some time. I wanted a new one but with GM on strike, they were no where to be found. So ebay to the rescue and picked up a used one.

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Now that I have the housing, I picked up the transmission support and started mocking the crossmember up. I flipped the crossmember around so the mounting holes were in the facing backwards and presto...it all lined up like it was stock!! I wasn't buying it and started double/triple measurments, taking it all apart, checking engine placement, but it was all good. But damn that looks BIG :shock:

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I'll need to shim the cross member mount a bit. The angle was 6 degrees. In this pic you can see it's pointed down. Again, the picture angle is funny as the frame looks to slope up but doesn't.

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Next came the tank. Yep, I popped for BJ's tank. I was recommended to paint it with this epoxy rubberized paint to seal it. Not sure if I like it cause you can really feel the rubber texture. Not sure how it'll hold up. Mounted straight in without any issues. I opted to use 5/16th stainless thread inserts mounted in the frame rails so dropping the tank will be relatively easy. 2 thread inserts at each corner and 4 up front.

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With the transmission hung and gas tank installed, I took the chassis over to the body shop.

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The trailer I used was taken at the coast so I had to call a wrecker.

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Here's good shot of how low the tank hangs down. it's not much at all considering it's 27 gallons.

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Off to the shop.

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1978 Cherokee Chief WT in a thousand pieces
Previous Jeep: 2001 Grand Cherokee

Topic author
irondawg
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:13 pm
Location: Leander, TX

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by irondawg »

Everyone was so excited to finally have the chassis at the shop we didn't get many pictures. Once the chassis was off the wrecker we put it back on my dollies and rolled it under the body and started lining things up.

Before we knew it, the body was down on the frame.

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Body dropped right on. There was a little gap on the passenger front but we do have the body braced and it's been on the rotisserie for a LONG time. It took a couple minutes but it settled in.

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We decided to move the motor over another 1/4 inch to the driver's side for a little more clearance. There was no issue with the transmission. I was worried about the back of the motor since that's where the high pressure fuel pump and wiring harness lives but there's plenty of room.

Next up is sorting out all the transfer case issues.
1978 Cherokee Chief WT in a thousand pieces
Previous Jeep: 2001 Grand Cherokee

Topic author
irondawg
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:13 pm
Location: Leander, TX

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by irondawg »

Next up was the transfer case. I opted for a 241C. Couple of issues to work out are the input shaft needs to be 32 spline vs stock 27, and a clocking ring is needed as the t-case hung too low as hits the cross member.

First order of business was rebuild the t-case. Since it was pretty nasty, I stripped all the cases and blasted them.

Bucket o' parts!
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Power washed the cases and then Gorilla taped.
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I painted the cases with aluminum engine paint and cooked at 250 for 30m. Look good.

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Here's shots of the input shafts. The new one came from AMP Distribution. Be sure to measure the bearing or get the part numbers because there's two different sizes. Also order the internal needle bearing that gets pressed into the input shaft.

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Here's the part number for wide bearing.
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Checking fitment with cut off output shaft from transmission. All is good.
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Needle bearing pressed into new input shaft.
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Ready to install.
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Next up is the SYE kit from JB Conversions. Again, I suggest calling and talking to John if you have any questions. He said I needed kit 1205 and since I wanted to change the front flange to a yoke, I ordered a high clearance yoke part number 1983.

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Since I had an old style transfer case, I had to press out the needle bearing on the old shaft as the SYE shaft doesn't use them any longer. I used the new shaft to press them out since it was the correct size. Gears slid on the new shaft.

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From here it's just a matter of putting it all back together. I did test fit a number of times and made sure I could shift. I didn't get pics of the chain but it's a simple process of dropping the SYE shaft and front gear down as a set. There's plenty of videos on that.

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Housing with new supplied bearing.

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New flange that replaces the slip yoke and carries the seal.
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I didn't get the hardware to mount in the kit and the existing bolts were too big. I sent JB and email and they are sending out the correct bolts.
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I put a new front shaft seal in but when I installed the new yoke, the shaft was smaller than the existing. Since I had the cases all sealed and torqued, I didn't want to take it apart so with a pry bar, chisel, and flat gasket scraper to protect the case, I got the new seal out.

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And a new one it that fit the new yoke. The rebuild kit came with a number of extra seals I guess for this case.

Last step was to mount the clocking ring from NorthWest Fabworks.

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It can only go on one way. The extra mounting holes are for other transfer cases. Based on measurments, I put the studs in the 2nd holes counter clockwise to lift the passenger side up. Hope I did this right.

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Ready to get installed.
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Off to the body shop. Success!!

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There's about an inch of clearance from the bottom of the transmission cross member and plenty of room for the drive shaft.

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Next up is Lizard Skin ceramic and noise deadening on the body and soon...paint!! In the meantime, I've got a lot of parts to get ready for the hood, doors, and tailgate before final paint.
1978 Cherokee Chief WT in a thousand pieces
Previous Jeep: 2001 Grand Cherokee

Topic author
irondawg
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:13 pm
Location: Leander, TX

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by irondawg »

Went by the body shop to drop off Raptor Liner and found that the body is all tapped up ready for the Lizard Skin sound and heat coating. We talked to the nice folks at Lizard Skin and they suggested to apply on the inside of the body. It's not a tough liner material and would chip off especially running in the desert. We'll paint over the Lizard Skin to also protect it.

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Will also be shooting Lizard Skin in the fender wells...

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Firewall...

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And roof...

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If the weather holds out, it'll be sprayed tomorrow or by end of week.

To protect the underside, rockers, inner fenders and fender flares, I'm using Raptor Liner that will be tinted same color as the body. Plan is once Lizard Skin is dried enough, to lift the body off the frame and shoot the underside and inside fenders. While the body is off the frame I'm going to finish up the fuel pump, sender, external fuel filter install and run fuel lines to the front.
1978 Cherokee Chief WT in a thousand pieces
Previous Jeep: 2001 Grand Cherokee

CU4WHLN
Posts: 77
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2014 7:18 am
Location: Michigan

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by CU4WHLN »

Question:

Progressing down the same path. What about a Power steering pump? Your plan ?
It's not YOURS until you BLEED on it !

+ 01 XJ Cream Puff +16 JK Daily Driver + 85 CJ locked and loaded
+ 03 Rubi + 77 Chief 401 + 79 Chero - Madness: Sold

77 Gen V swap http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457
77 401 build: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ief+begins
79 "Madness" build: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ief+begins

Topic author
irondawg
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:13 pm
Location: Leander, TX

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by irondawg »

Howdy y'all!

Well again time slips by. Until a few weeks ago anyway. Progress continues...last I left off we just finished the Lizard Skin inside. That came out better than I thought. The tin can sound is just about gone. I'll put a layer of foam on the roof, that and carpet should keep the interior pretty quiet.

Next up is Raptor lining the under carriage. I decided to go with tinted Raptor liner. The first application didn't look right. The color was too dark and it turned out the paint color was off. So after a bit of back and forth with the paint shop, I found the color I was looking for. However, what this means is I had to rough up the Raptor liner so we can shoot another coat. I spent almost two weeks, two or three hours a day sanding. At first I used Scotchbrite pads but that was taking way too long and I was burning through a six pack quick. I needed another plan. Since us Texans like to BBQ and keep the grill clean, I had some BBQ grill pads and thought these would work better. And they did. They are far rougher and tough enough to last longer. I went through 6 pads for the entire underside of the Jeep including the wheel wells. Here's the final results.

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You can see why it took so long, there's a lot of surface to sand.
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The color in the pictures looks a lot darker than it is.
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Putting final touches on. BTW, definitely use a respirator with this stuff. Here we are doing touch up so shooting just small amounts.
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This is a little closer to the actual color.
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With this done, we dropped the body on the frame. Hopefully for the last time.

Next up was to paint the firewall. I don't have any good picts but the next set you'll see the color.

Now that the firewall is done, the remaining body parts were installed to check alignment and for some final body work. We kept the hood off for now as we are going to experiment with Raptor lining the under side. So far we've had good luck with it.

To answer CU4WHLN's question, While we were putting the body panels back on, I was working on the front of the engine. First off, I had to remove the vacuum pump on the lower drivers side to make room for steering linkage.

Second off, since L83 motors do not have power steering pumps, I had to source one. There are a number of shops building p/s pump accessory mounts and in the end I went with an ICT setup since I could keep the stock a/c compressor in stock position. It did move the alternator up higher but close to the same location. No changes to the water pump needed.

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Here's a close up. The aluminum brackets are from ICT. The p/s pump I used is from a Corvette. If you need part numbers, email me or get them off the ICT website.

Now, one thing you'll need to know, I'm going to install a Vintage Air setup. I had most of the holes on the passenger side firewall welded up. I will be installing a battery box and moving the battery to that location. I plan on installing an air box in the stock battery location. The p/s pump pulley, which isn't installed yet, will hit the stock battery mount bracket. It doesn't interfere much and you could modify to make room, but there will be clearance issues.

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The final body work in progress.
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Before...
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After...
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Got the tailgate hung with rebuilt hinges with stainless steel pins and brass bushings. (BJ's kit and I highly recommend it. Tailgate operated smooth!)

However, once we had it back on the body, you could see where the middle of the tailgate was pushed in so more work needed.
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If you're wondering about the paint color. It's a Dodge blue but was customized to have a little bit of gray. The roof will be an off white and windows blacked out. The fender flares will be blue as well but, depending on how the hood turns out with the Raptor liner, the flares and lower body line will be sprayed body colored Raptor liner.
1978 Cherokee Chief WT in a thousand pieces
Previous Jeep: 2001 Grand Cherokee

CU4WHLN
Posts: 77
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2014 7:18 am
Location: Michigan

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by CU4WHLN »

Great progress... You are getting "close". Time is the most precious resource these days !

I was very interested in the Gen 5 mounts.. I have the same ones. BUT - your pics don't show the details? Can you post a couple of those detail shots?

Are you going with Hydo Boost? I see you removed the vacuum pump ? I used the ICT kit as well. How much of the stock batt tray needs trimmed? I am going to have to do that.. A little - or a lot ?

Rear propshaft.. how do you plan to handle the offset diff vs a center output t-case now? Double carden ? I will have the same issue.
Front driveshaft.. clearing the trans pan ok? Is that why you moved the engine to the driver side?

TIA

On my first build, when I welded up the firewall for a Gev 4 Vintage Air unit, I used a CJ batt tray. It mounted very nicely where the heater blower was and basically bolted on.

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It's not YOURS until you BLEED on it !

+ 01 XJ Cream Puff +16 JK Daily Driver + 85 CJ locked and loaded
+ 03 Rubi + 77 Chief 401 + 79 Chero - Madness: Sold

77 Gen V swap http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457
77 401 build: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ief+begins
79 "Madness" build: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ief+begins

Topic author
irondawg
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:13 pm
Location: Leander, TX

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by irondawg »

CU4WHLN wrote: Fri Apr 10, 2020 8:50 pm Great progress... You are getting "close". Time is the most precious resource these days !

I was very interested in the Gen 5 mounts.. I have the same ones. BUT - your pics don't show the details? Can you post a couple of those detail shots?

Are you going with Hydo Boost? I see you removed the vacuum pump ? I used the ICT kit as well. How much of the stock batt tray needs trimmed? I am going to have to do that.. A little - or a lot ?

Rear propshaft.. how do you plan to handle the offset diff vs a center output t-case now? Double carden ? I will have the same issue.
Front driveshaft.. clearing the trans pan ok? Is that why you moved the engine to the driver side?

TIA

On my first build, when I welded up the firewall for a Gev 4 Vintage Air unit, I used a CJ batt tray. It mounted very nicely where the heater blower was and basically bolted on.
There are shots earlier in the thread of the Gen 5 mounts.

Going with Hydro Boost since there was not enough clearance for 7 inch vacuum brake boost and I kinda planned in back of my head for the upgrade. A buddy has a 69 Camaro that he swapped an big block 455 and hydro boost brakes and the brake power was leaps better.

For the batt try, not sure how much needs to be trimmed. I already new it was coming off.

Rear prop - yes, double carden prob. I've thought about sourcing a center diff axle but since the prop has some length to it, the angles are not that bad. What I did was get a piece of 3'' pvc pipe and mocked the angles up. I've talked to a couple local shops and the combination of lenght and dbl carden I should be okay. If there is vibration, I'll swap out for a center diff axle. There's plenty of those around. And if I do, I'll put an ARB locker in it as well. And yes, the engine is move over almost 1 1/2 inches to the driver. Front prop has plenty of room.

Hope that helps.

About the batt tray. You think there is enough room for two batteries?
1978 Cherokee Chief WT in a thousand pieces
Previous Jeep: 2001 Grand Cherokee
User avatar

Chubbinius
Posts: 351
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Location: SD, CA

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by Chubbinius »

Nicey done on the undercarriage. The white over bue will look great, can't wait to see it!
1970 1414X Wagoneer "The Pig"
-Custom Special
-Dauntless 350 V8
-D27 front/D44 rear
2006 XK (65th Ann Edition)-DD

CU4WHLN
Posts: 77
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2014 7:18 am
Location: Michigan

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by CU4WHLN »

CU4WHLN: I used a CJ batt tray. It mounted very nicely where the heater blower was and basically bolted on.

About the batt tray. You think there is enough room for two batteries?

I think there would not be enough room for 2 there. Physical size is one thing.. the weight and stress on the firewall is another thing to consider. Why 2 batteries? I run some serious stereos and winches on my trail rigs.. and only use one batt? Never have I had an issue with a deep cycle battery.

If electrical load is a concern - look for a higher amp output alternator maybe that bolts on the engine? That will recharge your battery faster. I think that engine has a 150 amp one now.

[/quote]

There are shots earlier in the thread of the Gen 5 mounts.

There are a few pics - but several in that post don't show up for me?


Thanks much for the answers! Great rig you've got going there.
It's not YOURS until you BLEED on it !

+ 01 XJ Cream Puff +16 JK Daily Driver + 85 CJ locked and loaded
+ 03 Rubi + 77 Chief 401 + 79 Chero - Madness: Sold

77 Gen V swap http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457
77 401 build: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ief+begins
79 "Madness" build: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ief+begins

Topic author
irondawg
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:13 pm
Location: Leander, TX

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by irondawg »

CU4WHLN wrote: Sat Apr 11, 2020 8:27 am CU4WHLN: I used a CJ batt tray. It mounted very nicely where the heater blower was and basically bolted on.

About the batt tray. You think there is enough room for two batteries?

I think there would not be enough room for 2 there. Physical size is one thing.. the weight and stress on the firewall is another thing to consider. Why 2 batteries? I run some serious stereos and winches on my trail rigs.. and only use one batt? Never have I had an issue with a deep cycle battery.

If electrical load is a concern - look for a higher amp output alternator maybe that bolts on the engine? That will recharge your battery faster. I think that engine has a 150 amp one now.
There are shots earlier in the thread of the Gen 5 mounts.

There are a few pics - but several in that post don't show up for me?


Thanks much for the answers! Great rig you've got going there.
[/quote]

Just read your thread over in the mothership. Nice!! For the Gen 5 mounts, before I pulled the front end apart, I measured everything and I mean everything, probably had like 25 points of reference. I sent the body off to the shop and kept the frame so all I had to figure out where the mounts should go are measurements of where the old engine was relative to the body and I also had measurements where the body was with reference to the frame. This included, axles, tranny tunnel height and depth, cross member and a few others. Using these and L83 sizes, we mocked up the mounts. I just used C-clamps. I dropped the L83 down on the mounts and started taking measurements. The first attempt was in this location with about 3/4 inch high from the frame.

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This didn't work to well as the engine was too far back where the heads could have come in contact with the firewall. The up/down was going to be okay but a little tall. I figured I could mount in the lower position if needed.

I must have redone this like 10 times before I was relatively satisfied with the placement. From memory I believe I moved the mounts about an inch forward measuring from the front of the old mounts. Here's a picture.

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I did mock up the doghouse to check spacing.

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Mounted the engine in the upper position. Also, and this may be a factor for you, I have a Rough Country 3" lift. Here's a shot of frame on body with engine. There's about a finger width of room at the far edge of the heads. Also, I need to shim the transmission up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch to get better driveshaft angle so that will give a little extra room.

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Like you, I'm planning on this build more of an overlanding rig. We head to Big Bend quite often, Gila National Forest and other places off the grid. I plan on having a fridge and other constant power drains. I like the idea of having an extra batt to run those draws. I'm either going to have one mounted or, which I'm more leaning to, a portable setup where I'll connect up using an anderson plug that I'll wire in the back. I also plan on a drawer system that'll be removable. But that's a long way off.
1978 Cherokee Chief WT in a thousand pieces
Previous Jeep: 2001 Grand Cherokee

CU4WHLN
Posts: 77
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2014 7:18 am
Location: Michigan

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by CU4WHLN »

irondawg:

Thanks!
Just what I was looking for. That is perfect !! So yours is a L89 ? Mine is a L83

I actually have both set of the Novak mounts... Bought the one for the Gen 3 and 4 first. (They are not sure they can be used.) Love the idea of "bolt on"... Figured I would use them as a starting point. ( The gen 5 mounting plates are moved forward and up a bit, but not a lot )

Then I saw YOUR thread.. and you mentioned Novak HAD Gen 5 mounts? Called and talked with them... They think it may be possible to mix and match them and it may work. Bought that set too. We'll see. Like you, I am measuring and planning where to place the engine. I may actually angle the engine ever so slightly to the pass side to help with offset diff angle.

Yet another question... I think I want to move the engine as far forward as reasonable. If you did this again, would you move the engine forward any further? Did you do this, or target the original engines location as the mounting position? I am concerned about the engine and exhaust clearance to the firewall. Want to use the manifolds that came with the engine. I don't think there is any magic about the location of the AMC engine.

Did this interfere with the shock towers?

What fan are you planning? I bought the Gen 5 radiator, but want a PWM fan - Looking for a GM unit that will fit and be controlled by the ECU. I am using Mitch as well to do the wire harness and ECU programming.

Mine has a 4" lift.., Oil pan clearance should pose no issue. I think we have the same rims ! lol

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It's not YOURS until you BLEED on it !

+ 01 XJ Cream Puff +16 JK Daily Driver + 85 CJ locked and loaded
+ 03 Rubi + 77 Chief 401 + 79 Chero - Madness: Sold

77 Gen V swap http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457
77 401 build: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ief+begins
79 "Madness" build: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ief+begins

Topic author
irondawg
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:13 pm
Location: Leander, TX

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by irondawg »

Nice rig! I plan on towing but a 3 row dirtbike trailer. I'm thinking of getting a roof top tent but there's a couple good ground tents that are faster to setup.

I do have an L83. For the placement, I wanted it as far back as I could to help with weight as I plan on heavy bumper and a winch. My motor comes out of a 2014 Silverado. When I bought it, I got all accessories, ecu, and headers. The headers are back dump and fit perfectly with plenty of clearance. If I moved the motor forward, I don't think they would work. Be careful of placement left and right as you may have clearance with the front prop.

I have 6L80E tranny with a 241C passenger drop setup. Like I did for the rear prop, I mocked up a 3" pvc pipe to check clearance. The first test had the prop a little too close to the exhaust manifolds. I initially had the engine at 1 1/8" to driver. I ended up moving it 1 1/4" or a little more for better clearance. I still had plenty of room on the driver side for exhaust. I can't remember which clocking ring I used but it worked great. I think I put the name in earlier thread. If I'm lucky, I can run a stock Silverado Y pipe. I plan on single exhaust down the passenger side.

And yes, there is interference with a lower inside bolt on the shock mounts. I'll put a heavy duty threadsert in there that's rated for 100 ft/lb torque. I've used these before and they work really well. Don't get the name brand Threadsert. Those don't hold up.

For the fan I'm going with a latest gen Camaro fan as it is run by the PWM.

BTW - I got the harness back from Mitch. Looks pretty good. A couple tags fell off but it shouldn't be too much of an issue. There wasn't a legend for the fuse block. I haven't asked him yet but I'll get him to send it. Other than that, the new connectors look OEM and wrap is clean.
1978 Cherokee Chief WT in a thousand pieces
Previous Jeep: 2001 Grand Cherokee

CU4WHLN
Posts: 77
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2014 7:18 am
Location: Michigan

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by CU4WHLN »

Thanks again.. and of course another question.

I am planning on using the vacuum pump. I just reread some of your posts. It will interfere with the steering linkage? Uh Oh! Was it a "close condition" or a huge crash and burn? Can I address this with some tweaks on engine position?

So - shock tower mount, only compromises one of the mounting bolts. Like the idea of nutserts. I could also add a weld to that area if need be.

I am looking at the Camaro rad as well - BUT.. it's $350 and I don't know if it will mount well?
Would hate to buy it, only to find it won't mount well to the BJs alum rad for LS engines. I have a call into one of my GM buddies, he can pull it up on his computer and get the dimensions. I know it's 20x20, but need to understand the mounting areas. Then I can make an adaptation plan with that info. [That's one of the perks of working in the automotive area.] Have you tried this yet? What radiator are you planning on?

HAPPY EASTER !
It's not YOURS until you BLEED on it !

+ 01 XJ Cream Puff +16 JK Daily Driver + 85 CJ locked and loaded
+ 03 Rubi + 77 Chief 401 + 79 Chero - Madness: Sold

77 Gen V swap http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457
77 401 build: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ief+begins
79 "Madness" build: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ief+begins

Topic author
irondawg
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:13 pm
Location: Leander, TX

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by irondawg »

CU4WHLN wrote: Sun Apr 12, 2020 10:42 am Thanks again.. and of course another question.

I am planning on using the vacuum pump. I just reread some of your posts. It will interfere with the steering linkage? Uh Oh! Was it a "close condition" or a huge crash and burn? Can I address this with some tweaks on engine position?

So - shock tower mount, only compromises one of the mounting bolts. Like the idea of nutserts. I could also add a weld to that area if need be.

I am looking at the Camaro rad as well - BUT.. it's $350 and I don't know if it will mount well?
Would hate to buy it, only to find it won't mount well to the BJs alum rad for LS engines. I have a call into one of my GM buddies, he can pull it up on his computer and get the dimensions. I know it's 20x20, but need to understand the mounting areas. Then I can make an adaptation plan with that info. [That's one of the perks of working in the automotive area.] Have you tried this yet? What radiator are you planning on?

HAPPY EASTER !
Plan is to go with BJ's radiator but I'm still looking for options. As far as fan goes, yes...from looking up the Camaro fans it's 20x20. I'll make up a shroud out of aluminum and pop-rivet any brackets. I should have enough room for a bit of a gap between the rad and the fans.
1978 Cherokee Chief WT in a thousand pieces
Previous Jeep: 2001 Grand Cherokee

Topic author
irondawg
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:13 pm
Location: Leander, TX

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by irondawg »

Lot's of work going on. At the body shop, the tailgate is just about straightened out, all the body panels have been blocked, sanded, and any dings or low spots have been dealt with.

The doors at the vent sill where broken and have been fixed with thicker and longer metal. I'll get picks of that today. Here's the before, you can see that the 'tabs' are completely broken off. This normally happens from either pulling the vent window frame to close the door or when getting in or out pushing down on the door.

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I've also been cleaning up all the tailgate and door parts. I haven't been documenting it since it's just a matter of sand blasting, cleaning, priming, and making sure all the hardware is there.

Here's how most parts looked. These are the glass door stops and the bottom vent window mount.

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And the finished parts after primer...

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Today I'm headed over to the shop and installing most of the tailgate and door parts since they will get painted body color.
1978 Cherokee Chief WT in a thousand pieces
Previous Jeep: 2001 Grand Cherokee

Topic author
irondawg
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:13 pm
Location: Leander, TX

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by irondawg »

Went to the shop yesterday to install the door catches and opening mechanism and tailgate parts. Got the door parts in. Here's a shot of the fix to the doors.

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New thicker and longer metal plates burned in and the cracks welded and filled. I had the vent windows at the shop and we made sure the width of the window opening was consistent and the vent frame fit snugly. Can't wait to get that installed.

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Door catches in as well...

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The tailgate was off the Jeep for final body work to get center section flat as possible so I didn't get any pieces installed.

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Next up is the window regulators and I'll rebuild the vent windows with new runners and seals.
1978 Cherokee Chief WT in a thousand pieces
Previous Jeep: 2001 Grand Cherokee

Topic author
irondawg
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:13 pm
Location: Leander, TX

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by irondawg »

Went by the shop yesterday to install more door parts and look what I find...

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There's a few pin holes that need to be glazed and sanded but it's just about ready for color.

They took the grill support off because the found some cracks in the back and welded them up. Primed and ready to go now.

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Got the last of the door parts installed.

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Close up of the hinges and door pinch welds that were rusted out and replaced.

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I'll swing by the shop tomorrow and install tailgate parts. I'm rebuilding the lift mechanism and rewiring the motor. More to come on that.

Getting closer to color!!

Cheers,

Irondawg
1978 Cherokee Chief WT in a thousand pieces
Previous Jeep: 2001 Grand Cherokee

CU4WHLN
Posts: 77
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2014 7:18 am
Location: Michigan

Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by CU4WHLN »

Pretty dang exciting to see it ready for color !
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
It's been 11 days now... UPDATES ? lol
It's not YOURS until you BLEED on it !

+ 01 XJ Cream Puff +16 JK Daily Driver + 85 CJ locked and loaded
+ 03 Rubi + 77 Chief 401 + 79 Chero - Madness: Sold

77 Gen V swap http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457
77 401 build: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ief+begins
79 "Madness" build: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ief+begins
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Stuka
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Re: 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald

Post by Stuka »

The body is looking amazing. If the fire wall is going to be the body color too, I like it!
2017 JKU Rubicon
Pevious Jeeps: 1981 J10, 1975 Cherokee, 2008 JK, 2005 KJ, 1989 XJ
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