1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

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SJTD
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by SJTD »

Looks a lot like undercoating.
Sic friatur crustulum

'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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66stepside
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by 66stepside »

Chubbinius wrote:Those back ends look great in the shop, especially with the little touch of snow! Isn't that the unlisted "self-applying rust-proofing" feature of the steering box?

Can't wait to hear about the shakedown run!
Thanks! I like that “self-applying rust proof” label! Hahaha.

It started snowing a bit today... so no shakedown run- but I did take her up and down the driveway!

Image


The past two days was a marathon of bleeding my brakes, cleaning and tightening up misc. There’s quite a bit of power in that 401. It feels more powerful than the one in my 66.


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66stepside
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by 66stepside »

SJTD wrote:Looks a lot like undercoating.
So true! Despite the coating of self-applying rust inhibitor, it steered remarkably well up and down the driveway.


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Chubbinius
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by Chubbinius »

Love that FC! Happy to see it running, even if just up and down the drive!
1970 1414X Wagoneer "The Pig"
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66stepside
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by 66stepside »

Chubbinius wrote:Love that FC! Happy to see it running, even if just up and down the drive!
Thanks- I appreciate it.

I’m still bleeding the brakes- no pressure whatsoever. I thought it had it today, but no cigar. The front brakes are all brand new hardware. I’m tackling the rear with new gear tomorrow.

I’m cleaning out the back and felt the need to take the spare Jerry can put; I’m glad I did.

Image


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I’ll have to take the other side off, too, to clean it up.


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66stepside
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by 66stepside »

I should’ve waited to post. Here’s the driver’s side:

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Yuck.

It’s from the bottom of the jerry can holder.

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Here is is after some minor cleaning:

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I don’t think I’ll be putting the jerry cans back on the truck.


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jaber
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by jaber »

Maybe bed liner on both surfaces before reassembling?

Awesome as usual...
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66stepside
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by 66stepside »

jaber wrote:Maybe bed liner on both surfaces before reassembling?

Awesome as usual...
That’s a good idea. I’m torn between leaving it as she sits (with a wet sand, then clear coat), or bite the bullet and do what’s necessary to the metal work overall and repaint her.

My wife loves this JEEP and is reminding me weekly how much better it will look with new paint and upholstery! Haha, I wonder what my decision will be!? Image


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Yeller
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by Yeller »

If you leave it instead of clear coat use linseed oil. It penetrates and seals preserving what is there. If it is just a Sunday afternoon fair weather go get ice cream driver and stored inside, tongue oil does the same but just preserves it linseed oil keeps it sealed, is washable and weather resistant. From my experience just clearing doesn’t stop rust, it just feeds it.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909
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66stepside
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1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by 66stepside »

Yeller wrote:If you leave it instead of clear coat use linseed oil. It penetrates and seals preserving what is there. If it is just a Sunday afternoon fair weather go get ice cream driver and stored inside, tongue oil does the same but just preserves it linseed oil keeps it sealed, is washable and weather resistant. From my experience just clearing doesn’t stop rust, it just feeds it.
Whoa. That’s really good information. So, a can of linseed oil? I’ve used boiled linseed oil in the past for woodworking projects.

I’ve seen cans of “Patina Sauce” on a few social media posts... that’s probably someone mixture of linseed oil and mineral spirits mix in some cosmic ratio?

Very cool info- I’ll get to digging on some details. Thanks!


Edit for the M715:

The SM465 clutch went out at some point during the pandemic in the M715, so it sat parked for a spell. I used the mondo tranny jack I bought for the FC engine swap to pull the SM out of the M715. The TO bearing was toast and the clutch fork was in two pieces. After replacing those she was back on the road.

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Yeller
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by Yeller »

Yes boiled linseed oil. If putting it on when it’s not summer time cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits so it will dry faster. I find on my daily driver I can get 2 years out of it between applications. I always apply it in the summer so I use it full strength.

I also have a lot of steel rail fence. I coat it with linseed oil and after it’s dry paint it. Acts like a primer and stops the rust under the paint.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909
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66stepside
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by 66stepside »

I have no words.

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Image

Image

Image


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66stepside
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by 66stepside »

Yeller wrote:Yes boiled linseed oil. If putting it on when it’s not summer time cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits so it will dry faster. I find on my daily driver I can get 2 years out of it between applications. I always apply it in the summer so I use it full strength.

I also have a lot of steel rail fence. I coat it with linseed oil and after it’s dry paint it. Acts like a primer and stops the rust under the paint.
Wow, thank you- I’ll dial in these dang brakes, and get to mixing! Thank you for the info!


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Yeller
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by Yeller »

Your welcome 😊

Those brakes are quite special… WOW
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909
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66stepside
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by 66stepside »

Yeller wrote:Your welcome Image

Those brakes are quite special… WOW
They’re something special alright. What a nightmare!

I just wrapped up the brakes, but it’s too late to have the drums turned. I’ll box them up and drop them off tomorrow.

Here’s the passenger’s side:

Image


Image


Once the drums come back, I’ll button it up.


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66stepside
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by 66stepside »

Image

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Rear brakes are wrapped up and I had to get new drums.

Brakes work better, but still not roadworthy.

On to checking the RPV’s.

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Image

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I should’ve done that already, so I’m going back into the MC to double check my work.


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Yeller
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by Yeller »

Did you change the master cylinder to match the axles? If not the bore may be too small to move enough fluid to make the brakes work properly. If it is too small a residual pressure valve will help a little bit probably not solve the problem.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909
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66stepside
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1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by 66stepside »

Yeller wrote:Did you change the master cylinder to match the axles? If not the bore may be too small to move enough fluid to make the brakes work properly. If it is too small a residual pressure valve will help a little bit probably not solve the problem.
That’s the million dollar question (and was my first thought!) but this kit has a 1” bore diameter which is comparable to the j20, and 1/8” less the the k30, so it should be enough to work the brakes of both axles... but maybe not.

I’m at the slow pace of process of elimination of possibilities.

1) rear brake system replaced (better but not good).

2) double check the check valve placement in the MC (maybe this weekend?).

3) double check the lines and fittings for leaks and see that that are plumbed correctly (can be done with step 2).

4) Separate valve checked placed on the lines leading out of the MC: 2lbs for the disc front brakes, 10lbs for rear drums?

5) aftermarket, or new proportioning valve?

6) fab a new dash and get a whole new MC (would require cutting new dash to be able to fill MC)?
A) corvette style MC?
B) coe 90 degree mounting style with vac
booster, too (a ton of fab required)?


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Yeller
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by Yeller »

I just went back and looked through your thread. With the massive K30 front calipers you need a 1-1/4” bore master cylinder. My go to for that is for an 85 K30. There are 2 models, hydro boost and vacuum booster. They are the same specs exempt for the depth of the piston. The hydro unit is flush and the vac unit is recessed at the piston.

I’ve run those calipers with 1” and 1-1/8” bore cylinders. Both will work but will make you feel like you need a change of underwear when the pedal slaps the floor when you really need brakes, good news is they are usually locked up, but still squishy and scary. More volume is the only fix.

As a note about bore size some K10 and all K20 use 1-1/8” bore. I’ve only found 1-1/4” on 78-91 disc brake K30’s. I’ve played with this extensively, those calipers need 1-1/4” bore minimum to have a good pedal feel.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909

SJTD
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Re: 1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

Post by SJTD »

Some rules of thumb:

You probably know this stuff but I'll post it anyhoo:

Smaller MC pistons mean more power but require more travel and vice versa.

Bigger wheel pistons mean more power but require more MC piston travel and vice versa.

Increasing the ratio of the pedal pivot to pedal length vs the pivot to master length increases power but with greater pedal travel.
Sic friatur crustulum

'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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