New Zealand ’76 Cherokee Chief Restoration

[Trosskyll]

Well, it is now all in parts, down to the bare frame ready for blasting. It's in good condition, as are the axles - apart from the odd seal, so that's a bonus. The engine is a whole different story - water has been hanging around inside there for a very long time, from a blown gasket, and has made EVERYTHING inside rusty, and corroded.

[Trosskyll]

Another week or two later, and another step forward. I am pleased to have blasted the frame and painted the bottom of it.
I just need to flip it over and mount it back on the painted axles to finish painting the top part of the frame.
I will address the issue of the dirt trap in the front shock mounts, maybe by a flap on top to stop larger grit getting in, and a drain hole below to let at least some escape for the water / dust / mud that does get in. Has anybody had a go at that?

[Trosskyll]

A lot of oil and grease on the frame trapping dirt, and most of the frame paint was gone with the wind, so a thin layer of surface rust was everywhere.



Call me perverted, but I think this strip-tease is downright sexy!!




I decided to be really fussy... and removed the weld spatter

[Trosskyll]

And an overall view of progress on the frame in 2K black satin finish

The oil preserved the front end quite well


Cleanly blasted ready for painting


Etch primed all over and awkward projections painted first, with attention given to weld seam.


Complete bottom side of frame painted


Closer view of the finished surface.

[Trosskyll]

Steady progress on the Chief is being made, despite a set back that has stopped any further blasting and painting, or any other air tool use as my compressor has blown a three phase switch
No Tradesmen are currently allowed to work except if it is considered as an essential service for the health and well-being of any individual or family unit, and even then under strict social distancing guidelines under our four week Nationwide total Level 4 Covid-19 lock-down. It might be brought back to Level 3 in the next week as our numbers of new cases seem to be dropping nicely, and no unexplained community transmission is occurring.
But, not having compressed air has forced me to adapt my work flow. I have attached The rear axle spring assembly to the nearly finished frame (just the top needs to be painted), and the front axle, front shock mounts, transmission cross member, and a few other parts only covered with etch primer waiting to be top coated when I get air again...
I pulled apart both front brake calipers - rusty sludge inside and perished seals, so new / refurbished items needed there.
Then I tackled THE job I really was not looking forward to... ...stripping the gallon of tar that had been plastered all over the inside of the floor pan, and front of the firewall.
So 7 hours of an uncomfortable and messy later, job done! Now my sand blaster will not go through near as much material to remove a thick layer of tar.
Images below of the progress of this particular task.

The beginning...


Tank out, stinky carpet next...


Carpet gone, rubber floor mat next...


Half mat out...


The bare floor ready for tar removal


...continued in next thread...

[Trosskyll]

The heat gun makes the job so much easier, but still a messy job.


Half way there. - Lunch time


At last -inside scraped clean as possible ready to blast.


Next was to strip the tar off the firewall


And finally - job done and ready for blasting.


It is now next morning, and I am feeling the effect of yesterdays effort. Sore, but satisfying

[Trosskyll]

I have lately been finding sources for all the parts I need to get this truck of mine back to some kind of original spec. I feel VERY fortunate to have found a very friendly and helpful man with some mechanical and body parts here in New Zealand. When I find out what is available here I will know what I need to bring in from the USA. So any day soon. My bank account will show low... but my smile will be high!

I also measured and drew up plans for some items to be laser cut and bent; rear body cross member including captive plates for tailgate hinges, and forward fuel tank support bracket which was cut off and thrown away when my truck was converted to LPG.

Tailgate sill and rear body cross-member removed


Rear body cross-member ready for measuring up



Tailgate hinge captive plate cage ready to measure

[Trosskyll]

Image of drawing I made for sheet metal fabricator

[Trosskyll]

I have taken the Quadratrac T case apart to see what parts I need to replace.
Looks like a bit of wear happened due to parts rubbing where they shouldn't between the low range box, and the aluminum housing of the chain case.


You can see where the input shaft needle roller bearing housing has been worn by the low range rotating assembly. - Any ideas why?


After reading QT posts by Fulsizejeep,I think the cones don't look so good. They do have 1.3mm depth of groove... BUT, as this is the first time I have seen the inside of any T case - let alone a Quadratrac, I would appreciate your advice.


Cone seats in the differential case sprocket look a bit scuffed to me. I think this is now too rough to work as it was designed. Time to take apart the remaining two QT units to see if I can salvage a good QT diff sprocket.
I will maybe look into getting the cone seats machined smooth, and adding a thicker flat washer to compensate. Has anybody tried this??

[Trosskyll]

The fuel tank was missing from my Chief, as the engine was dedicated to run LPG. I was lucky to find a used tank salvaged from a Cherokee that had rolled down a hill and destroyed itself about 15 years ago. The guy had kept it all these years - lucky for me... except I did not find out he had one until after I order a plastic tank from the USA !! Oh well. Maybe I can help someone else out one day, or maybe my metal tank might rust out before I am finished playing with it..? Anyway, apart from a wee pin-hole in the bottom made by a sharp object when the tank was stored on a concrete floor, it is a good tank, if not a bit beaten by its' roly-poly down the hill. I blasted it and painted it - good as new


As purchased


Halfway through blasting it clean


Painted good as new

[Trosskyll]

Mounting the tank to the chassis was the next thing to address. 2mm Galv. steel was cut to width, and I bent it to shape in the vise. I am pleased with the result. There is room to install a bit of rubber insulation between the tank and the strap when I get that far.









I don't know why the images are showing sideways sorry... Ill try again with smaller file and see if thats better.

[Trosskyll]

I tried smaller image to see if they will insert the right way up, but that made no difference.

I made up a paper mock-up to check for correct fit of forward tank bracket









That's where I'm at just now. 'May be a month or more before I can update depending on how long it takes to get the bits I need locally, and from the USA.

This restoration is a bit like a courtship, building up a relationship that I just know will blossom into love

[FLeetFox]

You can do the 400 to NP208 with the Novak adapter. It does come with a new shorter tailshaft for the 400. I am assuming you will rebuild the trans so swapping the tailshaft could be done then. It does leave you wthi the issue of the front diff being on the wrong side. plus new driveshafts. Might want to call Novak and discuss, their customer service is excellent.

Fleet Fox

[letank]

Mounting the tank to the chassis was the next thing to address. 2mm Galv. steel was cut to width, and I bent it to shape in the vise. I am pleased with the result. There is room to install a bit of rubber insulation between the tank and the strap when I get that far.



I don't know why the images are showing sideways sorry... Ill try again with smaller file and see if thats better.

Very nice project. The metal gas tank on the 74 is a lot closer to the frame rail... the mounting bracket has a weird set up, that made it challenging to remove and reinstall the bracket with the gas tank . It is so close that it is really hard to slide a socket extension. I may have picts somewhere when I worked on it...

When the tank bracket failed years ago... I was lucky to be able to attach a strap... I was on a forest road 12 miles from any highway, and the gas tank had a slit... dropping gas all over the trail... propped up the rear on a boulder, cleaned up and applied some jb weld... enjoy the forest for another 2 days until the jb weld had properly dried up... and hope that I had enough gas going up and down some inclines...

here is the homemade replacement for the OEM bracket on the 74 vintage, it is under my fuel and gas link

[Trosskyll]

Is it OK to install locking, or limited slip diffs in the Cherokee with the Quadratrac?

From reading through various forums, I can't quite make out if it would be bad for the QT to have both the front and rear axles fitted with lockers / limited slip diffs.

1 Would Truetrac front and rear destroy the QT?
2 Would Truetrac rear, selectable front be better?
3 Is Selectable front and rear best for the QT?
4 Is it better fit to rear only?
5 Should I just leave front and rear as open diffs?

Drive train will be: AMC304, TH400, BW1339, Dana 44 front, Dana 44 rear, R&P geared at 3.54:1
All gear will be factory stock specifications, until I add lockers (or not... ), and maybe Milemarker part time kit in the future.

Right now 31" tyres are fitted. I would like to look at fitting 33's, or even 35" tyres if that would go.

I will appreciate your help to clarify this for me please.

[Trosskyll]

FleetFox - Thanks for your advice. To my total surprise, I thought no way would there ever be a spare QT, let alone 3x QT T. cases available locally! This put me on a straightforward way to move on and bring the drive train back towards stock with the least difficulty.

Letank - I will be sure to secure my tank securely before I head out into the back country. I guess your cautionary tale re-enforces the mantra to bring all you think you will need for any eventuality - and then some.

[FLeetFox]

I am by no means a QT hater, but I realize you are in a unique situation. Scan the classifieds and junkyards for what seems to be American and abundant. Then check parts availability at local auto parts stores for those choices. After that consult with Novak or Advance Adapters and make a choice. I only suggested the NP208 because they went in a lot of different makes, have relatively few internal parts most of which are easily obtainable (here), and is rugged enough for most people's uses here. I realize the RH side drop on the front axle you have may be a limiting factor.

You know all this, I'm just typing out my personal though process.. forgive...

Fleet Fox

[Trosskyll]

Wow! Its been over 18 months since I updated this post. I have steadily worked away on the truck, and time has slipped relentlessly by...

Fuel tank needed to have a couple of pin holes filled, and bracket welded to frame. Although I placed it in the same location as the mark made by the cut off bracket, it seems that the tank is only just clear of the axle rise, 1/4" or less. I will need to wait and see when the weight goes on the chassis to see how it settles down

Tank front Bracket.jpg

Powertrain & Drivetrain are in frame now, and new brakelines bent and fitted, along with axle,gearbox, and T case breather hoses.

1 Restored powerplant, TH400, and Quadratrac T.C..jpg

1a Restored powerplant, TH400, and Quadratrac T.C..jpg

5 Closer view of power train.jpg

[Trosskyll]

Draw bars front and rear made and fitted to take receiver type winch plate.

7 Front Drawbar bumper trial fitted.jpg

8 Front Drawbar.jpg

11 Front Drawbar.jpg

12 Rear Drawbar.jpg

13 Rear Drawbar.jpg

I wanted discrete but strong tow points so I modified stock tow bars from late model Ford Ranger. I did not want a permanently fitted winch to this truck. It will be used mostly on road, but be capable for the odd mild off road trip.

[Trosskyll]

The fuel tank is a real tight fit between the axle and Quadratrac unit.

Coffin tank - what year.jpg

Petrol filler - missing parts.jpg

Will spring shackle movement accommodate axle to tank clearance.jpg