Axle/suspension upgrade early FSJ

[Stuka]

Pitman showed up. The .715 one is the correct bore for the j20 drag link. The pitman DOES fit the XJ box so we will have steering once again!!

Wow, I was actually expecting it to be too large, glad it fits!

[Phils67]

I was surprised too. Seems to be the same splines. Went on easy, tightened right down no problem. Both appear to be 32 splines with 4 dead splines for aligning it. Big difference is the tie rod end hole size and taper and the arm is longer/non-drop.

[Phils67]

Called autozone about ford ranger brackets. They measure to where they will place the inner edge of the springs about 1 1/4- 1 3/8 off of the frame rail, which is what the post mount would position them, so I ordered 4 and they'll be in stock Friday. Hopefully this does the trick. Dorman part number 722-010

[Phils67]

Ford ranger shackle brackets were in stock today so I picked them up. It appears they are working great so far. I only have one side done right now but will tackle the other side tomorrow. The front bracket holes actually line up perfect with the holes from the post mount rivets so that was a big plus. The rear one I just had to kinda play by eye and drill holes. So far the spacing off of the frame is within a 1/4" of the stock mounting width which is close enough for me. I'll know for sure tomorrow when I get the other side done but so far I think these are going to do it! I'll have to get shorter shackles eventually to level it up better since the ones I have now give it about 1.5" of lift but those can be changed out at a later time. Time to get ready for work, but as of this moment I think it's going to work out!

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[rocklaurence]

Good to see!!

[Phils67]

Ford Ranger shackle brackets for all 4 corners of the rear springs work absolutely perfect! These tires are rollers so it's hard to tell the actual stance since they are flat and wont take air but I have another hole on the shackle to go an inch higher if needed. Stance is perfect as far as I am concerned right now though. I am absolutely ecstatic seeing it on all 4 wheels again!. Brakes still need to get done so on to that next after I bolt the driveshaft up. The wheel is slightly forward in the fender opening but as the springs settle it may move back a little. I'm ok with it either way really. Just happy that this thing is officially on 3/4 ton axles and better suspension and that stupid lift kit is now officially gone!

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[Phils67]

Buzzkill
Driveshaft is too long now. Its Tom woods I had made for the lift. The problems keep arising. I knew it was too hood to be true

[Stuka]

Buzzkill
Driveshaft is too long now. Its Tom woods I had made for the lift. The problems keep arising. I knew it was too hood to be true

Well, at least having a shaft shortened is a lot cheaper than having it lengthened.

[Phils67]

Very true. Honestly I'm not even mad. I'm twin sticked and I can move it in front wheel if necessary. This has been one frustrating project. But seeing it sit down just a hair over stock makes it all worthwhile. I can actually get in the cab without grabbing things and jumping now. Besides the 4.0 swap this is the best thing I ever did to this truck. I dreaded and dreamed if this swap for years...cant stop looking at it in awe right now with a big smile. "Yo Adrian...we did it."

[Phils67]

And and AND....the best part about the whole thing, I feel like I did the hard part and now other people wont have to deal with the aggravation and planning like I did. So there's that also. Anyone can read this thread and see what to do and what not to do. What parts work and which ones dont. So that makes me feel like I contributed to the world. 27 years of making dumb with this truck, that all culminates with this thread, and every build thread I post from here on out. I want FSJ owners to see my mistakes so they dont make the same ones. There has been more trial and error on this truck than any other truck on the planet I think. Haha. I swear, someday it will be finished....someday. maybe not in my lifetime. The mix and match of parts will at least keep my son on his toes and scratching his head long after I'm gone haha

[rocklaurence]

This Topic comes up quite often and your thread is going to enable more people to improve their old Gladiators with a more-modern set of axles and springs. Good Job!! Are you sure your happy with the Jeep 4L? Maybe time to consider a Turbo Vortec 4200!!!

[Phils67]

I AM jeep 4.0L, I know them inside and out. Believe me when I say this is a MAJOR upgrade over a 232. Bolting an AMC I6 to J series long input T18 is something advance and Novak both said cant be done. I've driven it for years and proved that theory wrong. i actually emailed them about it, dont recall which one, and they were like " no way, you did whuuuut?" They said a long input t18 wont bolt and function behind a 4.0., I did it in a weekend for 80 bucks and a case of beer. Lol they can adapt short inputs all day, long inputs are like weird to them I dont knock the companies, what they do they do well, but what they dont do I do better

[Chubbinius]

This has been an incredible thread to watch as you worked through the planning, fixes and corrections. It looks good (even on the rollers) and this thread will be great for others to follow when trying to upgrade their axles similarly. Thank you, sir, and nicely done!

[Phils67]

I appreciate that!. Parts list,measuremenra, etx will be coming soon!

[rocklaurence]

Is the 4L still EFI or carb?

[Phils67]

MPI, came out of a 99 XJ I wrecked. It has a dizzy, not the coil rail. I took the whole harness from the donor, removed a bunch of unnecessary stuff and piggybacked some of the original harness. The wiring is still in there for an AW4 but the plugs were cut out and they were heat shrunk and tucked into the loom. It can be added at a later date if I choose to.

[Chubbinius]

I appreciate that!. Parts list,measuremenra, etx will be coming soon!

Awesome, it's like you were reading my mind! Haha

That will be great for posterity!

[Phils67]

I appreciate that!. Parts list,measuremenra, etx will be coming soon!

Awesome, it's like you were reading my mind! Haha

That will be great for posterity!

I recommend if you remove the post mounts to get it on the inside of the frame in the center of the post as well or it will take a chunk of frame with it like mine did :/ looking back to yesterday I wish I took a hole saw without the center bit and cut around the back of the post. If you look behind the mount on the inside of the frame you'll see what I'm saying. I'd post a pic but it's raining

[Phils67]

So here is the list of parts so far.
2x Omix-Ada 18271.05 front rearward spring bracket, mounted with the tab in line with the edge of the rear if the post mount, see pics page 4, disregard earlier page pics.

Rocklaurence FSSR brackets for the front forward position. Remove your bumper, its not an option.

4x Dorman 722-010 for the rear. The rear forward uses the post mount rivet holes, rearward will need to be drilled. Both will have the opening on the bottom side of the brackets. See pics page 5. The rearward one I mounted high on the frame rail, if you mount it lower you can probably use the same shackles as the front. I'm not moving them now so it's what it is.

2x of each General Spring 97-400 front leaf springs
22-553 rear leaf springs

Everything for J20 front brakes can be used on the rear as well if you use Cutthroat 4x4 dana 60 rear disc brake brackets for a J20. Make sure you clock them so the caliper doesnt interfere with the spring and you can get both bolts out.
I got 4 of their stainless hoses but the front are way too short so I'm leaving them alone. The rear are pretty short too, I haven't attempted mounting them yet. Stock J10/20 brake hoses are fine if you prefer saving a few bucks, and will probably work better

Moog DS915 tie rod

Crown J5352421 tie rod

Crown J5352278 pitman arm, I am using a XJ steering box, which will bolt directly to the early frame, at least it did on mine which was originally manual steering, the pitman fit this box. You can use a J10/20 box I would think.

Stock height HD shackles from BJs for the front, 1-2" lift shackles for the rear if you install the mount high, stock shackles if you mount it lower

You will also need U-bolts, spring plates, 9/16 x 5" grade 8 bolts for each suspension mounting point (3 per spring) etc. The front uses 2 different size u-bolts 3" and if I recall I bought 3.25" for the housing side, the rear uses 3 1/8" u bolts. Remember that when you order spring plates.

Order shocks of your choice and an aftermarket steering stabilizer and brackets. Stock height J10/20 shocks should work but I'd say get them for a 2" lift. Dont forget gear oil, grease and brake fluid! And vent hoses with breathers too!
I will get measurements of things whenever the rain stops if I remember to. That's where we are at so far. Not counting the axles I've spent probably 1000 on the suspension, about 500 to convert the D60 to disc, plus alot of time and aggravation. It's a time consuming project so make sure you can afford to down the truck for a while. Accumulate everything before you start. This is the list if what you'll need to get the truck back on 4 wheels. It's not a complete project yet by any means

[Phils67]

A few pics of the front mounts and the disc bracket clocking. The corner of the tab of the FSSR will need to get trimmed to mount the 3 piece bumper back on, mine uses the top hole that's partially covered. You can see where to line up the post mount and the tab of the new mount as well clearer than in my previous pics.

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