1978 J10 Project moved from IFSJA...5.3L swap with QT!!!

[JeepinPete]

What are you using for motor mounts?

[msh227]

I have a set of mounts from Novak.

[msh227]

This build is progressing very slowly. Today I had time to work on it and was able to remove trans, tcase, old motor mounts and start cleanup process of engine bay no stellar pics of progress.

I did happen to find this when removing TH400.....

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1371424027.885333.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1371424041.291793.jpg

Appears trans had been rebuit back in 2002.

[msh227]

This build is progressing very slowly..... happy to say yesterday I bought a 2000 5.3L from a Tahoe with 136,000 miles for $550.... planning to replace timing chain etc and get it in the truck 24th-25th this month.

More to follow including pictures......

[j20owner]

If you are going through the trouble of replacing the timing chain, replace the oil pump as you have to remove it to get the chain off.

[jaber]

And do the knock sensors, IIRC they are under the intake manifold.

[msh227]

plan is to do water pump, timing chain, oil pump, belt, thermostat, and associated gaskets.

hoping the manifolds are in good condition.

[j20owner]

And do the knock sensors, IIRC they are under the intake manifold.

Yes, on the older engines they are under the manifold and had a tendency to fill the cavities with water, rotting the sensors. We always put a little rtv silly cone around the rubber plugs to seal them up.

[msh227]

[msh227]

So motor is in, picked up from local scrap yard for $550 out of a 2000 Tahoe with 136k miles.

This weekend I replaced oil pump, timing chain, water pump, and gaskets. Also discovered the tensioner is shot and idler pulley need to be replaced. I still need to buy new plugs and plug wires for it also.

To the guys with comments about knock sensors I thought that was a joke similar to muffler bearings, my apologies. Well I removed the old ones and need to buy two new sensors, the one looked okay but the other one was full of corrosion and quite a mess. Has anyone removed the cover that the knock sensors sit in? I removed all bolts but the cover did not seem to want to come off and I didn't want to break anything.

As I posted these pictures I noticed I did not take any "good" pictures. I should have taken a picture of the corrosion and a shot with the head covers off. All in all there was little to no sludge in the motor and the lifters etc looked pretty good. I might end up buying a new alternator and starter before it goes into truck.

Anyways enough rambling, more to come.... This week I'll be dropping off my transmission to get rebuilt and getting my computer and wiring harness shipped out to be modified.

[jaber]

To the guys with comments about knock sensors I thought that was a joke similar to muffler bearings, my apologies. Well I removed the old ones and need to buy two new sensors, the one looked okay but the other one was full of corrosion and quite a mess. Has anyone removed the cover that the knock sensors sit in? I removed all bolts but the cover did not seem to want to come off and I didn't want to break anything.

Its all good, I had just done them in a Tahoe and it was a PITA to say the least.

Sounds like great progress, keep up the good work...

[msh227]

Yeah I wouldn't want to replace them with the motor in the truck, so much nicer to work on a motor on a stand. Next time I need to get the lifter valley plate off, this past weekend I tried but it seemed stuck and I was afraid to break the cover which looks like a cast piece.

[j20owner]

It is cast aluminum, but pretty much everything on that engine is. If you have all the top bolts off, that's all that holds it on other than the seals in the knock sensor bores. No real need to take it off, though. You won't see anything but about 3.5 cam lobes. The heads cover the lifters.

[msh227]

When I first bought the truck and added the upgrades I tried to keep track of cost but it all got lost in the mix of the build. This time with the 5.3 swap I'm going to make an effort to track all my spending. Here is just a list for budgeting purposes with a few of the items already purchased. I'll try to keep this list updated for anyone interested from a cost perspective.

Some of the budget costs are guesses subject to change.

Is there a way to upload excel sheets?

EQUIPMENT............................................BUDGET PRICE.....ACTUAL PRICE.....SHIPPING
5.3L vortec............................................600....................583.00...............0
5.3L upgrades.........................................350....................661.46...............0
700r4 trans............................................100....................75.....................0
700r4 rebuild..........................................1000
motor mounts.........................................200....................180...................32.96
trans-tcase adaptor.................................450....................440...................32.96
5.3lL flexplate (advance adaptors)..............160....................155.22...............22.63
pcm programming wire harness work ............425
gauges..................................................450
driveshaft work.......................................100
radiator..................................................350
exhaust..................................................300
power steering lines..................................100
fuel pump and accessories.........................100
paint, hardware, odds/ends, etc.................300....................38.67................0

TOTALS.................................................4985...................695...................65.92

Just a few updates to my price list.

[Atla]

This is looking good! I like that stance on your truck

[msh227]

This is looking good! I like that stance on your truck

Thanks, I can't wait to get it back on the road.

[msh227]

Dropped off the 700r4 today during lunch to be rebuilt, guy says it should be ready by end of week..... stay tuned.....

[msh227]

So I need a little help....

I'm a little confused and hoping I didn't just buy the wrong part. The following is a link to the fuel pump and filter/regulator kit that I just purchased:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Compl ... 41792.html

Where I'm confused is how it all hooks up. On the 5.3L I have two ports inlet and return I'm assuming. On the filter/regulator I have two inlets a 3/8" and 5/16", as well as two on my sending unit in fuel tank.

I looked at other posts and I'm not seeing the same style filter/regulator.

Can I cap one of the inlets on the filter/regulator????

I'm not doing the swap at my house so can anyone tell me what size inlet is on the motor?

Thanks

[ProTouring442]

That's the Corvette Filter/Regulator. Same one I am using. Since you'll be regulating the fuel pressure back by the tank, you won't need the return line up at the engine. You can simply cap it off. You'll need a -6 AN Male to 5/16" SAE Quick-Disconnect Female (Russell Part # 644110), and a -6 cap. Earl's makes one (Earl's part # 592906).

[msh227]

Doing a little more research it appears that with the 2000 motor there was a fuel regulator near the fuel rails. I'm assuming I can still use the filter/regulator that I bought, shouldn't be an issue?