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So I have an opportunity to buy a warn CE m12000 for $350. It's a good deal, but not sure what it would take to wire the Cherokee for 24 volt, if it's feasible or worth the effort. Help me weigh the pros and cons.
SO help me understand what I'll need to do. I know I'll need two batteries. will I also need two alternators? can I keep 12 volts running the ignition and the dash gauges ans keep the second battery and charging system as a backup? seems like there would or could be a lot of positives here. THe only negative seems to be that the winch won't work without 24 volts.
It sounds like a nightmare. You will either need to come up with a way to isolate two batteries from the rest of your electrical system while winching OR have two additional batteries you use for winching. With two additional batteries you can wire them up so you charge them off the alternator but isolate them while winching.
Frankly it sounds like more trouble and expense than it is worth.
I'm still thinking about using a 24v starter. Fairly simple arrangement with some BIG relays but a starter only runs a short time.
Seems to me when winching you want the alternator helping?
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
SJTD wrote:I'm still thinking about using a 24v starter. Fairly simple arrangement with some BIG relays but a starter only runs a short time.
Seems to me when winching you want the alternator helping?
Alt doesn't do much really. A BIG alt for our trucks is 100amps, but our stock batteries can supply up to 500, and most of us have some over-rated 1000CCA thing in the battery hole.
You got me thinking, because in theory you could have your stock battery wired normal, and have a second battery wired in parallel with I diode between the + on the two batteries. The first battery would give everything 12v and the second battery would be 24v. The problem is I have no idea where to find a diode that can handle 500amps, and when it fries (all diodes fail eventually), it could fail closed just as easily as failing open. Then your truck either burns up a circuit at a time, or it just burns to the ground.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
I'm not seeing it with a diode. They have to be switched from parallel to series.
I've got a 200 amp alternator.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Probably go 24v with a 12v step down. The winch and a starter could use 24v, everything else 12v. Not much current draw left on a 12v system if you have the starter isolated to the 24v side.
Why do you want to use the 24V version of that winch? The 12V version has twice the power (4.6hp vs 2.5hp). Yes you need larger gauge wire for the higher current draw, but its not like that is a big issue.
Its a lot of work to convert everything over to 24V, and a pain to have a dual voltage setup.
The advantage of a 24V winch is that since the voltage is higher, a lower about of amps has to be delivered for the same amount of power. Fewer amps means less risk of overheating the wires during high power draw.
Stuka wrote:Why do you want to use the 24V version of that winch? The 12V version has twice the power (4.6hp vs 2.5hp). Yes you need larger gauge wire for the higher current draw, but its not like that is a big issue.
Its a lot of work to convert everything over to 24V, and a pain to have a dual voltage setup.
I have a rebuilt warn 8274 Ill sell you for 650 shipped. It has the new upgraded solenoid set up on it and a wireless controller.
Google warn 8274 it is the fastest winch out there and can hold the most rope or cable. They are used in competition by mainly. They are 1899 new. I had it built for my open trailer but ended up never using it. I have another one of these on my jeep and another bolted to my floor to unload my race car and pull it into the shop.
90 Fsj. 5.3, 4l65,241. 4" lift, Custom valved Bilstien 5125 Shocks, Dakota Digital Dash, Bjs Radiator, Bjs aluminum tank,Viper remote start, power door locks, one touch rear window. Ac, Cruise, tow haul all work as they should. Fully restored oem wheels.
FSJ Guy wrote:The advantage of a 24V winch is that since the voltage is higher, a lower about of amps has to be delivered for the same amount of power. Fewer amps means less risk of overheating the wires during high power draw.
Overheating the wires is only an issue if the wiring used is too small. Properly sized wire can carry peak current all day long without risk of fire.
As far as the amperage, I'd be more concerned with overheating the electric motor than the wires supplying the motor. And 24V will probably do better than 12V in that regard.