T-case options?

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Topic author
wag4x6
Posts: 65
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:45 pm

Re: T-case options?

Post by wag4x6 »

I get its probably not necessarily the case causing the problem but it's certainly not helping. The material thickness where the break is is barely 1/8". Structurally it's seems to be weak.
The strange thing is its broken twice now in a similar scenario when I've come to a sudden stop, once by hitting a rock with my front diff at slow speed (less then 5mph) and once slamming on the brakes at hight speed after going through some whoops in the desert. I've had my Waggy like this for 5 years as a more or less dedicated wheelin rig. It gets used and beat on pretty hard. The only thing I've changed are my tires from 35"Maxxis to 35" MTR's (the MTR's actually measure out 2"bigger and 1.5"wider than the Maxxis).

The other reason I posted this is I'm going to be doing a 1 ton swap soon w/ 38's. I feel with the issues I've been having that the np229 won't hold up to that.

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Under normal flex the shaft compresses an inch. With how my suspension cycles I have more extension on the shaft than compression(4:1 ratio)
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89 Gwag, stock 360, stock 727, np229, d44 front/rear, SOA/SF on 35's

WT91
Posts: 229
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:00 am

Re: T-case options?

Post by WT91 »

As others have said, the only bolt in T-case swap would be the NP208 out of another FSJ. Case wise, they're not much beefier than the 229. Still cast aluminum of roughly the same thickness. An NP231 or NP242 out of a smaller Jeep can be swapped in with some minimal work, but once again, still relatively light cast aluminum. With where that break point is, I'm not sure any of those are a reasonable solution for your breakage. I'd bet that you'd break a 208 in the same spot.

Could always run a D300 flipped to driver side?

Or wait...you say you want to install 1 tons. Could always jump over to passenger side drop and run the D300 without the hassle of flipping. In my area, passenger drop axles are also much cheaper/easier to find.

Just thinking out loud...
  • 1990 Grand Wagoneer
    440 swap, 727 MVB, NP208, D44 F/R 4.10 gears ZIP locker up front Detroit out back. So much other stuff. Check out the build.
  • 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually
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Topic author
wag4x6
Posts: 65
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:45 pm

Re: T-case options?

Post by wag4x6 »

I was thinking about changing to a pass drop. Chevy D60'so are slightly cheaper around here.
What will it take to do a D300? What about a 203 or 205. Or a doubler?
89 Gwag, stock 360, stock 727, np229, d44 front/rear, SOA/SF on 35's
User avatar

j10jim
Posts: 291
Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2012 12:05 am
Location: Simi Valley, CA

Re: T-case options?

Post by j10jim »

Why not a Atlas Transfer Case? With either driver or passenger side drop? It's not cheap but would be what I would do it I kept having issues.
1980 J10/20
Rusty's 4" lift, 2" body lift, old Cliffhanger front bumper, 35" tires, 65 dash w Speedhut gauges.
Xtrusion Overland rack system, Tepui tent, 1/2 decked system.

LONG time member of ifsja.org, FSJ-List and some others...

Topic author
wag4x6
Posts: 65
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:45 pm

Re: T-case options?

Post by wag4x6 »

Ultimately I may have to do that but I am hoping for possible less expensive options for right now until an Atlas magically appears in myour Waggy.
89 Gwag, stock 360, stock 727, np229, d44 front/rear, SOA/SF on 35's
User avatar

Pablo
Posts: 208
Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2013 6:58 pm
Location: Arizona

Re: T-case options?

Post by Pablo »

NP 205? But if it is travelling such that it pushes the driveshaft into the case far enough it does not matter what you put in it, it will break something.
  • 64 FSJ Wagoneer, under the knife
  • 67 FSJ Wagoneer, peacefully taking a break
  • 94 XJ, long-armed on 33's. Bolt on ghetto fab fantastic
  • 16 BU, wife's snow commuter
Formerly: 06 KJ CRD (Constantly Repair Diesel)
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