SOA Steering

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WT91
Posts: 229
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:00 am

SOA Steering

Post by WT91 »

I'm writing this up because I've found myself trying to help lost souls on Facebook groups and elsewhere with their SOA/SF dreams/fears. Lots of guys think they need to sink $$$$$$ into full 1 ton high steer setups for SOA'd trucks that will rarely see the offroad. I'm here to help. When I first did my SOA on my 1989 Grand Wagoneer, I was a poor college kid and I wanted to do it cheaply yet still do it properly. I didn't want to end up on the "Scary Steering" thread with pictures of all the Z bars and poorly welded extensions.

So, here it is. The absolute cheapest way you can build "Done Right" SOA steering for any later model driver side drop Wag/J-truck axle.

Step 1: Acquire a 70's FSJ passenger side flat top knuckle. These can be had from junkyards, from forum classifieds, swap meets, whatever. Get one. You can identify your steering knuckle of choice by using this very useful website: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html

Step 2: Get that flat top knuckle drilled and machined for a high steer arm. This is the gentleman I use: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flat-top-knuckl ... 0185812467

Step 3: Acquire a high-clearance, extra-thick passenger side high steer arm with the standard GM taper. The Grand Wagoneer drag link uses that GM taper. Also acquire the studs and conical washers to mount said arm. You need the thick high clearance style to clear the spring packs. Alternatively, you can use a standard width arm with a 1" spacer but that adds another failure contact point and most don't like them. Here is one option, you can shop around. Most any will work. http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Dana-44-1 ... /3461/3709

Step 4: Buy yourself a pair of RH/LH 7/8-18 threaded tube inserts and a pair of matching LH/RH jam nuts. http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/7-8-18-Th ... -Tube/3392

Step 5: Measure your stock drag link's length from pitman arm to tie rod. Write it down. Measure how long your stock drag link adjuster collar is. Write that down too. Using your MK1 Eyeballs, measure the distance from your pitman arm to the estimated spot your new crossover arm's tapered hole will be. If you aren't super sure, a little shorter is better than longer. Do some math. With the numbers you have, you can figure out how long you need to build a new adjuster collar to make the drag link long enough to reach the new high steer arm.

Step 6: Buy some .25 wall steel tube and cut it to length and weld in your tube inserts. Screw in your drag link with your new jam nuts. Enjoy proper SOA steering on the cheap, using stock FSJ parts.

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For those who may argue about strength, I am not going to say this setup is Rubicon rated or even particularly stout for that matter. It sure as hell is stronger than what most baby jeep guys think is acceptable. I wheeled/Daily Drove this Wagoneer with this exact steering setup for about 2 years and now the exact same arm and adjuster collar are living in another Wagoneer in my club. It works, it's cheap, and you can go to any parts house to buy standard FSJ replacement steering components without having a notebook of part numbers.

Whew, now I can just give guys this link instead of having to explain it 40 times.
  • 1990 Grand Wagoneer
    440 swap, 727 MVB, NP208, D44 F/R 4.10 gears ZIP locker up front Detroit out back. So much other stuff. Check out the build.
  • 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually
    7.3 PS, ZF5, 6.0 Intercooler, KC Turbo
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Stuka
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Re: SOA Steering

Post by Stuka »

I don't think I have seen anybody lengthen the drag link like that before. Should work pretty well as the forces placed on it are all in compression or extension. Sheer strength is not as important with a straight rod. Its CERTAINLY better than the scary bent drag links that people make.
2017 JKU Rubicon
Pevious Jeeps: 1981 J10, 1975 Cherokee, 2008 JK, 2005 KJ, 1989 XJ

Topic author
WT91
Posts: 229
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:00 am

Re: SOA Steering

Post by WT91 »

Stuka wrote:I don't think I have seen anybody lengthen the drag link like that before. Should work pretty well as the forces placed on it are all in compression or extension. Sheer strength is not as important with a straight rod. Its CERTAINLY better than the scary bent drag links that people make.
Thanks Stuka. My goal was to get SOA steering done correctly and yet cheaply, as at the time I was a 19 year old college kid working at a convenience store. I have now moved on to full high steer with 1 ton ends, but I wanted to share this so new guys can see that it doesn't take $600 of steering parts to SOA a Wagoneer. I did this crossover setup for about $150.
  • 1990 Grand Wagoneer
    440 swap, 727 MVB, NP208, D44 F/R 4.10 gears ZIP locker up front Detroit out back. So much other stuff. Check out the build.
  • 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually
    7.3 PS, ZF5, 6.0 Intercooler, KC Turbo

racerx12003r1
Posts: 406
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2013 8:12 am
Location: China Grove NC

Re: SOA Steering

Post by racerx12003r1 »

This is exactly what I was thinking about doing. I just finished up most of my SOA/SF on my J10. I was trying to figure a more cost effecient way to do the high steer. If nobody has told you this before, YOU ARE A GENIOUS. :evil:
Daniel

1980 J10 Thunderbolt Grease slapper (formerly Beast II)

nightglide
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Location: Reno, Nevada

Re: SOA Steering

Post by nightglide »

Will that work with a pass drop j10?
77 J10 360/T18/Dana20
Fitech fuel injection
4" Lift....3" body lift....35" ats

AwesomeJ10
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Re: SOA Steering

Post by AwesomeJ10 »

Looks decent, but I definitely disagree with the tie rod extension.

If you are cutting/welding threaded inserts into 1" ID DOM, you might as well spend another ~20 bucks and buy a new TRE and use a longer length of DOM so the tie rod is full length and no longer using any part of the stock setup.

Topic author
WT91
Posts: 229
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:00 am

Re: SOA Steering

Post by WT91 »

Blake wrote:Looks decent, but I definitely disagree with the tie rod extension.

If you are cutting/welding threaded inserts into 1" ID DOM, you might as well spend another ~20 bucks and buy a new TRE and use a longer length of DOM so the tie rod is full length and no longer using any part of the stock setup.
I agree that would be stronger, and would only be marginally more expensive. This is just one method of absolutely cheapest "done correctly" SOA steering. I myself have since moved on to full 1 ton high steer, but I wanted to try and help all of the "I can't do SOA the steering is too expensive" crowd.



@nightglide: I can see no reason why this would not work on a passenger drop axle. In fact depending on your year you may already have a flat top knuckle.
  • 1990 Grand Wagoneer
    440 swap, 727 MVB, NP208, D44 F/R 4.10 gears ZIP locker up front Detroit out back. So much other stuff. Check out the build.
  • 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually
    7.3 PS, ZF5, 6.0 Intercooler, KC Turbo

Topic author
WT91
Posts: 229
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:00 am

Re: SOA Steering

Post by WT91 »

I wanted to update this thread as I've been using it to instruct hopeless souls on Facebook and other places on how to do SOA. I wanted to discuss brake lines and shocks, once again on the cheap.

When you SOA your waggy up front, you'll notice that your stock U-bolt plates have to be flipped side for side if you want to use them upside down in an SOA configuration. Well, if you had a front sway bar, you'll also notice the sway bar doesn't line up with the old sway bar stud on the spring plate. Guess what does? Your shock mount. I ran this way for years, using my stock shocks, because I was a poor college kid. It rode fine, absolutely no complaints. In the rear, you don't have that cheapo option. However, you can use a shock for a Ford Super Duty truck (2000~ up to 2015) and it should fit fine. The part # I am using specifically is a Rancho shock, RS5254. Haven't had any issues with them either, sure they aren't bilsteins but if you are trying to keep it cheap you can even use a parts house Monroe shock.

Now, for the brake hoses up front. Front brake hoses for a 90's Chevy C1500 truck work great. C1500 specifically, it needs to be 2wd. They are available pretty much everywhere and you'll be out the door for $30 for the pair. As for the rear, I have heard numerous different hoses so you will have to do a little homework. I've heard Durango rear hose, 80's Dodge Van rear hose, YJ rear hose, etc. You can always bend the hard line at the frame to give yourself a little more length as well.
  • 1990 Grand Wagoneer
    440 swap, 727 MVB, NP208, D44 F/R 4.10 gears ZIP locker up front Detroit out back. So much other stuff. Check out the build.
  • 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually
    7.3 PS, ZF5, 6.0 Intercooler, KC Turbo

Nikkormat
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Location: Salt Lake City

Re: SOA Steering

Post by Nikkormat »

If your steering components are already worn out there SHOULD be an even cheaper way just ordering longer stock components. Assuming the taper is the same 73 and older wagoneers already used crossover steering stock. For WT guys 73 and older J trucks.

Can anyone confirm the taper is the same?
Gabe, "reformed" Jeep hoarder.

Topic author
WT91
Posts: 229
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:00 am

Re: SOA Steering

Post by WT91 »

I don't have the answer to that question for you Nikkormat, I'm afraid my knowledge on rigs of that vintage is quite limited.

I guess I should address the good point you bring up. If your stock steering is shot out and you are looking at this thread for advice, in my personal opinion I would suggest the full 1-ton GM tie rod ends that Blake suggests above. Cost wise you'll be in for about the same per end as stock FSJ parts, add in two extra bungs and jam nuts for a tie rod, and now you've got really solid steering for not much more invested.
  • 1990 Grand Wagoneer
    440 swap, 727 MVB, NP208, D44 F/R 4.10 gears ZIP locker up front Detroit out back. So much other stuff. Check out the build.
  • 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually
    7.3 PS, ZF5, 6.0 Intercooler, KC Turbo
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