Yeah, I’ve wondered that as well. I realize when I was searching for a key on 12v I did so with the original ignition brain box still hooked up. I wonder if trying that again without it connected will point me towards a different source I can use (even though it obviously works).BCRAWLER wrote:Suggest changing where you are getting power for computer for FI. Had the same problem with the cooling fan on a car years ago. Had it wired into the ignition system so when I turned off spinning fan continued as a generator. Think you may have wired into charging system.
Not sure which one was it? I’m working overtime this week so I may get some time to tinker next Sunday. Maybe. The diode seems like the easier fix but I may poke around some more with the ole test light.Stuka wrote:Why not use the source that the old ignition box used? Its a pretty heavy gauge wire, and was intended to power the ECU.
That’s only one diode. I wonder which of the alternator wires it goes on?sonoraed wrote:https://www.gopainlesswiring.com/produc ... diode-kit/
here's painless wiring's solution
Well, colors aren't always accurate with AMC, but from what I can see its the same for CJ and FSJ, for both i6 and V8. Typically its a red wire with a white line that goes to the old duraspark module. Its heavier gauge than the other wires. I used it to power the HEI on my J10, and can be used to power your EFI box.tedlovesjeeps71 wrote: ↑Sun May 03, 2020 6:33 pmNot sure which one was it? I’m working overtime this week so I may get some time to tinker next Sunday. Maybe. The diode seems like the easier fix but I may poke around some more with the ole test light.Stuka wrote:Why not use the source that the old ignition box used? Its a pretty heavy gauge wire, and was intended to power the ECU.