Electrical is obviously not my strong suit. Then this component seems to be functioning fine. Thanks
The coil is not new, the MSD Blaster is also from the PO’s setup. My brother in law is helping me through this and likely knows just what you mean. I have learned a great deal from Mac over the years. I’ll be back in touch if he has any questions. Thankswill e wrote: ↑Fri Oct 25, 2019 4:49 pm Since it was installed by a PO let's check a basic thing.
Confirm if the new coil is an 'internal' or 'external' resistance coil. If it is an 'internal' resistor coil then confirm the voltage on the coil positive side with the ignition turned 'on'. The jeep doesn't have to be running. If it is lower than 11 volts, then there is a resistor wire in the circuit. An internal resistor coil wants 'all 12 volts'. The simple fix is to add a relay using the current coil wires as the trigger.
babywag wrote: ↑Sat Oct 26, 2019 11:24 am Which MSD distributor does it have?
8519 or 8523(internal ignition module)?
Coil wire looks sketchy, spray all wires/cap with a spray bottle filled with water @ night in dark while engine is running.
If you have any bad wires you'll see & hear them arcing.
I am unsure, how do I tell the MSD model?
Thanks for the test tip!
This is my model.
Yes, 1406, I’ll double check all plumbing, but pretty sure it is correct. I’ll get some closeup pics to send.letank wrote: ↑Sun Jan 19, 2020 9:26 am When you get it running.... you said edelbrock 600cfm, is it a 1406? Make sure that it is plumbed as per specs, the PCV valve layout is different than our stock 2150
If there are no vacuum leaks tested with your favorite spray around the carb base, be sure that you do not read false positive by the spray being sucked into the air filter , not too sure of your air filter set up.
What vacuum manifold reading do you get, above 15" and somewhat steady? Using the strobe light on every spark wire, is it lighting consistantly?
Then time for compression check...
After going thru Letanks list, I’ll do this if it gets that far, could possibly be that as I was told PO freshened motor with rings and had heads done, no knowledge on much else, don’t even know if top end changes were made at same time, could have been later (or sooner).
Brake cleaner too
make sure that the air flappers are operational and not obstructed, 76 should not be an issue, but who knows which air filter casing was installed, you can always run with the top off, unless there is a sandstorm brewing
Vacuum gauge units are in of Hg (mercury) the other scale can be mm of Hg, or get a hand vacuum pump, always useful to test all our vacuum operated gizmo.
Thx, I’ll add it to my growing list!dbx11 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 21, 2020 10:51 am I had a major tuning problem before I decided to pull the engine and have another member rebuild it, It was pretty tired and the timing chain had stretched a lot causing ignition,timing issues. It would run but I always had problems I couldn’t iron out. If you can search for chain replacement symptoms it might lead you towards all of your issues.
letank wrote: ↑Sun Jan 19, 2020 9:26 am When you get it running.... you said edelbrock 600cfm, is it a 1406? Make sure that it is plumbed as per specs, the PCV valve layout is different than our stock 2150
If there are no vacuum leaks tested with your favorite spray around the carb base, be sure that you do not read false positive by the spray being sucked into the air filter , not too sure of your air filter set up.
What vacuum manifold reading do you get, above 15" and somewhat steady? Using the strobe light on every spark wire, is it lighting consistantly?
Then time for compression check...
I’m slow but steady, truck passed carb base leak test and vacuum holds steady at 16 1/2, on to strobe test next round, u may be on your way to those seals! Your contender seems to be cam gear post, only other I can think of is if my internal mechanical advance springs are weak or need adjusting (outside my pay grade). Thanks letank.
16 1/2 steady is good, really steady is excellent in fact, when I had a wiped 2 flatten lobes on the cam it was about the same but with a lot of flutter and big puffs or unburn oil out the tailpipe after rapid throttle acceleration.custom76 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 26, 2020 9:21 amThen time for compression check...letank wrote: ↑Sun Jan 19, 2020 9:26 am When you get it running.... you said edelbrock 600cfm, is it a 1406? Make sure that it is plumbed as per specs, the PCV valve layout is different than our stock 2150
If there are no vacuum leaks tested with your favorite spray around the carb base, be sure that you do not read false positive by the spray being sucked into the air filter , not too sure of your air filter set up.
What vacuum manifold reading do you get, above 15" and somewhat steady? Using the strobe light on every spark wire, is it lighting consistantly?
I’m slow but steady, truck passed carb base leak test and vacuum holds steady at 16 1/2, on to strobe test next round, u may be on your way to those seals! Your contender seems to be cam gear post, only other I can think of is if my internal mechanical advance springs are weak or need adjusting (outside my pay grade). Thanks letank.