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Yep, broken motor mount. Looking at the dash cam video I can see the poor hood getting pummeled by the top of the power steering pump while climbing an obstacle yesterday on the trail. But I think it had already broken loose earlier on the trail. I think I can see it in a few earlier videos but there is no doubt during the obstacle climb the hood is being beaten on. It's actually kind of interesting to see. I'll post up a youtube video for the curious.
good luck, it seems an agreement that lifting the engine by using a wood block and a floor jack is the way to do it... I have done a few... and yes you have to disconnect a few things, a gear shifter bushing at the firewall for those with auto trans, but in the end I rent a cherry picker and lift the engine from above. They have folding cherry picker that nicely fit inside the cargo area with the bench down
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Thanks michel. I am going to give the wood block idea a shot at first. I've replaced motor mounts, can't remember if I've done it on the Jeep but did it for sure on the Mustang. Looks like I need to do the transmission mount too. I can't remember if that means I need to lower the crossmember or not.
Here's the video of the hood getting hit. I noticed that the air cleaner also rubbed the bottom of the hood a little as well...
Michel, after spending a bit of time under the Jeep I've decided to go with the cherry picker idea. Even letting almost all of the air out of the front tires the engine is still too high up. I would have to stack a lot of blocks to get it to reach.
I have all of the motor mount bolts loose, except for the passenger top back one. What a pain to get to. So my strategy is to use the cherry picker and just lift the motor up a bit, maybe 1/2" or an inch. Then I will remove the frame bracket on the driver side. Put the mount on, fit it into the top bracket and then bolt the frame bracket back on. On the passenger side I am going to try to remove the top bracket from the engine. This will give me access to the nut. Bolt the new mount onto the top bracket. Then try to install. Maybe lift the engine a bit more or go ahead and remove the bottom bracket as well.
Got them in. Still need to tighten everything down. Here is a little write up for anyone interested (and to remind me how I did it if I have to do it again...)
I removed the nuts on the motor mounts, except the hard one to reach in the passenger side. Next time I will leave the nuts connecting the mounts to the top bracket on. (read on..)
I loosened the bolts that mount the assembly to the engine block. There are three. The hardest one to get to I went ahead and removed.
Removed transmission mount nuts. (I am planning on swapping out this mount as well)
Lifted engine using a cherry picker. I used one of the AC compressor holes and a driver exhaust hole as the mounting points for the chain.
I set the picker on the longest length arm. This helped reduce how much the cherry picker ended up under the truck.
Since the driver mount was broken it came out pretty easy. But I couldn't lift the engine enough to get the new mount in, so I did end up removing the top bracket that attaches to the engine.
Assembled the mount to the top bracket and was able to finesse it into place and mounted to the engine. When I lowered the engine the mount would not slip into the mounting holes on the lower bracket. I tried a few times with no luck.
So I decided to just go ahead and tackle the passenger side. I had left one nut barely attached on the bottom bracket hoping this would keep the engine from shifting while doing the driver side. I removed that nut and lifted the engine.
This time I had to remove the upper bracket and engine mount as a unit. It took a little twisting to get out once it was unbolted, the tranny lines, oil filter and such make it a bit more difficult compared to the driver side. You could unbolt the assembly and just replace the mount while it's under the truck and not try to do it on the bench.
Swapped out the motor mount on the top bracket. Got the assembly back in place with the engine mount bolts a 'little loose' which allowed the assembly to move just a little bit.
Lowered the hoist and the darn thing slid right into place. (Winning!)
I still have to finish tightening stuff, replace the tranny mount, hook up the tranny linkage, etc. But overall I am pretty happy.
I did find out the lower engine brackets, which have 4 bolts, appear to be welded on too. I loosened the bolts on the drivers side and the bracket would not move much.
In my rig there was no way I was going to be able to get the engine up high enough to replace the engine mounts without removing the top bracket. Eventually the entire front of the truck would lift up, I am not sure what caused this. So removing the top assembly was my solution. This was a bit nerve racking, if the hoist lost pressure or a chain snapped or something bad happened the engine had no support on that side. I used a very large jack stand and placed it under the transmission bell housing 'just in case' while each assembly was out.