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I did a bit more research on those two carb options and they seem to be fairly close to each other by the specs. The basics I was looking for were a four barrel carb with between 550-600CFM, vaccum secondaries, electric choke, square bore and center hung floats. Both FST and Proform options have external air bleed jets and similar pricing, but the FST also has sight glasses in the float bowls, so that's the likely choice if I decide to go with a new carb. The swappable air bleeds should(?) make tuning for my 5K altitude a bit easier.
Just got back home today and first thing I did was make sure I got everything I ordered online. So far so good. I also picked up a battery, most of the rubber hoses, a couple brass recessed pipe plugs, a gallon of purple degreaser and some engine paint. Don't tell the purists, but it's not an AMC color.
Btw, should I keep posting in this thread or start a new one? It's not really what I would call a "build", rather just a "get it running again" and clean it up along the way project.
I would not put money into a new carburetor today. Email Bill at Hamilton Fuel Injection and price out a complete custom turnkey EFI system. (Not a plug for him - but does this for happy customers. There are several other turnkey paths - check Jegs or Summit.) Better performance than any carburetor, instant starts in any weather, automatically adjusts for altitude, more reliable, less maintenance. Put that carb money into a modern system.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
What does an EFI system like that typically run (ballpark of course)? As I found out with my other project truck, it's not just the initial buy-in price I have to consider, but all the other things that are also required to make it work.
I'm not opposed to EFI at all btw, quite the opposite actually. My other truck is a 75 Dodge W300 C&C with a 440 that I'm converting to full sequential fuel and spark with a MS3/3X unit I built. Just looking to keep this one a bit simpler than that for now. After I have both the Dodge and the Jeep going, I'd be ready to consider EFI for the Jeep.
Edit: It's really rainy here today, so I'll pull the 2100 carb off and rebuild it inside my shop. That way I can still make some progress on it.
Last edited by GoMopar440 on Wed Jun 17, 2020 8:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
$1500 typically. You can DIY it cheaper - which you are aware of, going with Megasquirt - but that requires you learn and understand what you're doing. Check with Bill - he sells GM OEM TBI systems tuned to your engine. Nice thing about GM stuff is you can buy replacement parts anywhere, except for the ROM chip that tunes to your engine. Howell is another seller of turnkey TBI systems using GM parts - no spark control though. There are also bolt-on self-tuning aftermarket systems from Holley and such.
The most appealing aspect of Howell is they sell a system that's 50-states legal after conversion. Most other systems are off-road only, and suitability will depend on local law enforcement. I suspect you are not concerned about this, since you are contemplating hop-up parts.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Yea, not many counties in Montana check emissions in any way.
Well, the weather isn't cooperating, so I've only been able to get a little bit of cleaning done today. The passenger side inner fender is now stripped of parts and ready for paint, but the rain said otherwise.
After a bunch of cleaning and parts replaced I finally got it running last night. It was just by pouring gas down the carb and cranking it over, but I confirmed that it runs at least. Didn't sound bad either, if maybe a little quiet.
There were a few issues to deal with, but nothing too crazy. I replaced the starter solenoid (bad), ballast resistor (bad/cracked), most of the rubber hoses, fan belts, thermostat and removed a few unused intake vacuum ports with plugs. I cleaned up most of the engine top and front areas as well as the pass side inner fender and battery tray and the driver side frame and steering gear box. The aftermarket radiator I got had the overflow tube nipple on the wrong side of the fill neck and the threaded ports for the trans cooler lines are smaller than original, so the original rubber trans hoses won't work.
As far as the stuff I didn't get to yet... The carb still needs to be rebuilt, valve covers still need the new gaskets installed and I'll need to figure something out for the trans cooler lines to the radiator.
The upgrades, such as the HEI will wait till Iget everything else up and working as original first so I can tell if there any undiscovered issues.
Stuff got kinda crazy for me since my last post, so I haven't had a chance to get back here for a while. Long story short, my mom's health is deteriorating quickly and I'm not sure when I'll be able to get back to Montana for a while. The project isn't going anywhere, it's just taking a back seat for a while so I can deal with this.
I decided to keep the existing size tires that are currently on the truck, 235/75R15, and stick with an all terrain pattern. The best deal I could find is the Dextura (sp?) DAT1, which I found at Wallyworld for $64 each. I picked up two of them already at a store I passed by while on the road, which was all they had in stock. They're stored in the truck's upper bunk and they make the sleeper smell just WONDERFUL inside. [Insert heavy sarcasm emoji here] The other tires I'll get as I find them wherever I can.
And regarding my mom, she's doing better now that my brother and I flew her out to my place in Montana. My wife is able to help care for her and she's getting assistance from the local hospice. Thanks for the well wishes and any prayers said. They definitely helped.
So the "Made in USA" part is technically correct, but the money still ends up going to china then. At least there are some Americans earning wages by being employed to make them in SC.
Carb is now rebuilt. The carb kit didn't have everything I needed though. The kit was missing the power valve cover gasket and the choke pull off diaphragm. The power valve supplied was too tall for the short cover, so I had to put the original 7.5 valve back in for now. My original choke pull off diaphragm had 4 tiny pinholes in it, so I used some grey ultra RTV on both sides of each hole as a temporary fix until the new one I ordered arrives on Monday.
Since my air cleaner lid is blown out all around the center hole I picked up a new air cleaner and filter at the parts store. It doesn't have the same connections as the factory one, so I'll have to make something up to deal with the crankcase pressure.
I picked up a couple 5/16" inverted flare adapters so I could hook up the trans cooler lines to the radiator, but they turned out to be the wrong size (too big). I'll get that sorted out tomorrow.