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I've got the opportunity to switch to a manual tailgate for $50 (sans the cost of getting a new lock cylinder) I've got an electric tailgate that would function perfectly with the addition of a new upper guide. Ai is it worth it to convert from electric to manual?
Depends. Most that have switched do so because they have problems with the wiring that causes slow speeds, burned motors.
The problem with manual windows is the crank handle splines wear / strip and the current replacements are crap and strip quickly.
My 79 Cherokee had the switch on the dash working and manual crank on the tailgate worked fine till the handle stripped and 4 replacements stripped quickly. I bought an 85 tailgate and went 100% electric. That was 20 years ago. No complaints just keep it clean. I will be up grading the wiring with a kit from Serhill and that's just because I can while I clean up the accumulation of old work in the back.
79 Cherokee WT QT Golden Eagle white with gold windows "Pigger" only blows hubs the night before a road trip or the clodest night of year. Has only been towed cause of stupid.
I'm torn on this, too. My factory power setup isn't working, and I have an aftermarket manual assembly with 2 NOS crank handles...I might just go with the updated wiring as well.
The Crowne re-pop product has been touted as very low quality. Having actual NOS handle can be an advantage but the re-pops don't compare to OEM. Hamdles or regulators. I pulled the Crowne stuff off of mine & went to electric the first week I had it. Just because the handle is new doesn't mean it's NOS. Carefully inspect the equipment your using because OEM is at the very least 35 years old. In all probability, the tracks & frame assembly is as shot as the crank.
1980 Cherokee wrangled & mangled
MSD complete system
Eddy intake
Holley 650
Comp cam 270H
4" Rusty's
Ramsey 12K winch
208
Built to drive not sit in the garage.
No longer strangled. I didn't build it for anyone else.
If you can't improve it why waste your time?
You can get reman motors and pretty much ever piece to rebuild the rear window assembly except the regulator itself. I ordered all new tracks, seals, wipes, motor and the wiring kit from serehill. I have not installed the wiring as I have some gauges ordered from speedhut to include fuel and I am going to run the wiring when I have the tank dropped. I am looking forward to using the remote to open and close the back window
1975 Cherokee S factory 360,t-18, 4" hellcreek, slot mags 33" bfg's, performer intake, and Fitech fuel injection.
1980 J10 304, 5 spd, 4" Superlift, 4.88 Gears, 35" Maxxis Big Horns
1961 fc-150 fishing truck (on hold)
I am really torn on this. The thing that would sweeten the deal for me is that this window assembly only has 8 years and 40 thousand miles of use. Christ all the belts and hoses are OE AMC. Every stinkin one has an AMC logo. So the condition is excellent. The only problem is that there isn't a key. So how do I get it down and how do I get it keyed alike? I'd get the whole tailgate for $50 bucks but I probably wouldn't spend more than 25 on getting it re keyed.
After sitting for three months my rear window is reaaalll slow now. It almost needed help up. I'm already gonna have a mismatched hood and core support so why Nona tail gate too?
I don't know how you come up with "has only 8 years" unless it's aftermarket Crown junk.
If that's the case just fix your electric stuff, it's the same hassle but better parts that last.
I have 40 year old manual stuff that's just fine, but you can't scrimp here.
Take it all apart, clean, lube, replace side tracks and adjust correctly.
None of this stuff is magic.
A collection of 1966 to 1986 parts. Self Inflicted Flesh Wound
Caddy425/TH400/Atlas 4spd/14B/D60/locked front and rear/Hydroassist/39.5 Irocks (Join date = Friday the 13th)
Tad wrote:I don't know how you come up with "has only 8 years" unless it's aftermarket Crown junk.
If that's the case just fix your electric stuff, it's the same hassle but better parts that last.
I have 40 year old manual stuff that's just fine, but you can't scrimp here.
Take it all apart, clean, lube, replace side tracks and adjust correctly.
None of this stuff is magic.
Its only got 8 years because it was dormant from 1986 to now.
I have converted several electrics to manual and have never regretted it. In snow/ice country this prevents one from trying to roll a window down that is frozen to the wipes etc. and it's handy to get the glass down when there is no power. Another benefit is you can gauge the condition of the whole assembly by feeling the resistance while cranking.
As far as the Crown parts, I agree about the splines. I placed some grease on the splines and added a small amount of JB-Weld to the handle and installed it. This filled in any gaps and will prevent the steel splines from stripping the handle. In my experience, most spline stripping issues are caused by the handle not fully seated onto the shaft.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
Im rebuilding my 76 Cherokee Chief. I would love to switch to manual. Not a difficult task i assume? How do you open the window from the outside though?
You can get new manual hardware, you might wait a long time to get new regulator. It is a bolt in swap, HOWEVER, you will need to fiddle with some of the spacer nuts and caps because the power regulator and the manual one fit in the same holes but have different standoff distances for clearance. It's not a hard conversion, but if you want the rear window to lock you either have a 3rd key or spend $$$$ to have a lock barrel matched.
"Wait, what's on fire!?" KJ7TCT
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1976 Cherokee w/t 'Susan' 401/TH400/QT(PT)
FiTech Go EFI, Edelbrock Performer intake
3" Rough Country Springs, HEI Dizzy
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2018 Cherokee Trailhawk V6 'Sedna'
Bj’s sells new lock barrels for under $20 that will fit the manual or electric lock.
Oh and for future reference, the lock barrel from your electric switch is removable. There is a small hole that you can probe with an Allen key or a punch to release the barrel.