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Work is starting on my axles next month, so I am looking to do something to tame the rear axle wrap before it rears its head (4bt swap). I was planning on just having them fabbed up with the two bars mounted to the axle body and then hooking the bar to a shackle on the frame.
The 999 offroad design seems more space efficient and less likely to hang up on stuff or get in the way of a coffin tank since they are lined-up with the leafs. Not sure if it will reduce flex too much when compared with the other design. I will be on 37's and want to keep my travel, but I know I cannot have everything (especially with leafs).
I also know it won't work with the post mount 65 frame I have... but I am cutting those mounts off anyway.
I know the vendor is on here.... maybe I will pm and see if they will chime in.
Pablo wrote:
. I will be on 37's and want to keep my travel, but I know I cannot have everything (especially with leafs).
You CAN have everything but not with that thing. That would kinda work for a street driven rig i suppose but would be a joke offroad. The what....2" separation between the spring plate and arm mount isn't going to do much. If your trying to reduce/eliminate axle wrap, the mount should be on the axle.
68 Gladiator- RIP
78 Wagoneer- 401, D60/70, 203/205, 38's, Dual PS pump, Hydroboost, OBA, OBW, bla bla bla.
If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything.
I run traction bars on my mustang but don't require flex. They are similar to what you show except they go under the springs which isn't a problem since I don't off road the mustang.
That setup just looks like it would really limit the flex and try to force the axle both forwards and backwards. I wonder if someone make something similar with a movable piston? Something that will expand and contract slowly (allowing for flex) but avoids the wheel hop?
BTW, I don't have any wheel hop issues on the jeep. But my engine isn't super toquey (is that a word)?
Interesting concept but it looks like the axle side needs to be about twice as high to work effectively. I may have to try something like this on my tan truck. It has serious axle wrap issues.
Ron
2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled.
1977 SJ J10, 4v360, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly.
1978 SJ Wagoneer, 4v360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall NOT Running
1977 SJ J10, SniperEFI 401, QT, D44s, 31X10.5s
2006 KJ
Mars wrote:One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil
That looks like it makes a triangle with no articulation points. Unless there's a hidden bushing in the frame mounted end, how is that going to allow the axle to move up and down without something breaking and/or bending?
We wheel this Jeep regularly and have tried our best to abuse these and they have held up nicely. They do prevent axle wrap. The feel and handling on soft surfaces when you are really romping on it is totally different. It limits flex slightly. So like most things they probably aren't for everyone. They do have a poly bushing where it is mounted to the frame. If anyone has any questions feel free to call, email, or PM us. Thanks!
999 Offroad
1973 J-4000 x2
1976 Cherokee S
1978 J-10 Honcho
1983 Wagoneer Limited
1987, 1989, 1991 Grand Wagoneer