Waggy rear lift question.

landbruiser · Post by **landbruiser** » Sun Aug 09, 2015 8:57 pm

Alright guys, I have been working on my new to me Wagoneer for a few weeks now and I need some help on the rear.. Its lifted with stacked blocks for a total of 4.5 blocks. Those are coming out as soon as the new lift springs are determined. It also looks like it has a shackle flip in the rear. Does the rear shackle Mount look stock?

I was hoping to get a new 4" lift spring and eliminate the blocks. I am running 35's but wouldn't mind stepping down to 33's

Thanks for any info you can give me.

Tad · Post by **Tad** » Mon Aug 10, 2015 3:05 am

That's not stock, some sort of a homemade shackle flip.
Unless they did something to the front hanger for the rear springs, or used some form of shim, tapered block, or rotated the spring perches the pinion angle is probably off.
Looks like it could be removed and taken back to stock if needed.

So how exactly did they setup the front SOA?
If changes need to be made or issues fixed the front should be dealt with first.

landbruiser · Post by **landbruiser** » Mon Aug 10, 2015 6:17 am

Its way off in the front.. they welded the perches so the diff points straight up. It under-steering really bad. That's why I was debating and planning on going back to spring under.

Tad · Post by **Tad** » Mon Aug 10, 2015 12:52 pm

Dang, but yes, if they pointed the pinion way up and did not cut and turn the knuckles you have no caster working in your favor.
On an FSJ front 44 you can get away with about 1.5*-2* of rotation and be ok, anything more will need a cut and turn.

If that's all they did in the rear I'm certain you could get it back to stock, I have a bare frame out back, i'll grab you a picture for reference.

I'm not so sure about the front.
If they got all grinding crazy on it u-bolt fitment might be an issue.
If you want to grab a picture of how they did the diff side perch I can give you a better opinion on returning it to stock.
If it's really buggard you may be better off doing a cut and turn on the knuckles and then doing a proper shackle flip in back.
I sort of do this for a living so i've seen a lot of odd SOA stuff over the years.

Tad · Post by **Tad** » Mon Aug 10, 2015 12:59 pm

Here's two pic's of the stock configuration.

carnuck · Post by **carnuck** » Mon Aug 10, 2015 3:25 pm

Tad wrote:Here's two pic's of the stock configuration.

On my '84 J10, I cut the bottom of the boxed in rear and flipped the shackle till I make new brackets for the front part. I went SOA on the front diff

landbruiser · Post by **landbruiser** » Mon Aug 10, 2015 4:07 pm

Thanks for the pics Tad. I will get some pics of the front end. I plan on pulling the axle tomorrow and removing the new perches and get ready for a new set.

landbruiser · Post by **landbruiser** » Mon Aug 10, 2015 5:51 pm

Here are the pics of the front.

Tad · Post by **Tad** » Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:58 pm

Unless I am totally blind that's not even welded on.

I think you are in good shape whichever route you choose to go.

will e · Post by **will e** » Mon Aug 10, 2015 9:40 pm

That front end needs some help. I thought you were exaggerating when you said 'pointed straight up' but it wasn't far from the truth.
The brake line work is a little scary as well. IMHO that is not a road worthy rig. I am happy you are planning on improving it.

landbruiser · Post by **landbruiser** » Sun Aug 23, 2015 10:15 am

I got the front perches removed and then reinstalled new ones at the right degree, but now I have a few new problems. The exhaust now hits the driveshaft, so I am heading to the exhaust shop for new pipes. also the front driveshaft is now about an inch to short, so that will need to be extended.

So I pulled the front driveshaft to take down to get extended, hoped into the waggy and it wont go into gear. I grabbed the shifter and moved it in low range and still nothing, it does make a grinding noise like its not all the way in gear. I got underneath it and took off the linkage and manually put it into gear and still nothing..

It is a full time 4x4, Does the front shaft need to be hooked up for it to go into gear?

Cassidy · Post by **Cassidy** » Sun Aug 23, 2015 1:22 pm

I did not see what transfer case you had but if it's full time you may not be able to drive it with the front drive shaft out.......it could even damage it trying.....what year is it ? Sorry If I Missed It

landbruiser · Post by **landbruiser** » Sun Aug 23, 2015 1:37 pm

Its a 1977 with an auto and borg warner case. trying to get more info on it now. It is full time 4wheel drive also.

Cassidy · Post by **Cassidy** » Sun Aug 23, 2015 1:39 pm

I'm not entirely sure but I think if it's qudratrac you can put it in e drive and drive it with out the front shaft.

Renodemona · Post by **Renodemona** » Mon Aug 24, 2015 5:30 pm

No, you can't drive it without the front drive shaft. You will destroy the QT cones. If it has been converted to part time it is still not recommended for high speeds (ie, driving on public roads).

KJ Ryu · Post by **KJ Ryu** » Mon Aug 24, 2015 5:35 pm

Even with e-drive locked in, the max recommended speed is like 25 or 30mph, iirc.

landbruiser · Post by **landbruiser** » Tue Aug 25, 2015 4:41 pm

Thanks for the info guys! I have the driveshaft out now and at the shop getting extended.

shimniok · Post by **shimniok** » Tue Aug 25, 2015 5:39 pm

Wow. That is some kinda drag link angle, too. I'm sure you'll have it ready to roll soon!

sent from my MotoX

landbruiser · Post by **landbruiser** » Sat Oct 24, 2015 4:08 pm

Update time... Got the front axle removed and old spring perches cut off. welded on a new set and added some extra gussets in the middle of them for strength. I had to have the front drive shaft extended about an inch, it wouldn't work with the axle in the right spot.

I also had to cut out the crossover exhaust pipe with a temp flex pipe due to driveshaft clearance, but new complete exhaust system is coming soon. While I had it apart, I also fixed and routed the brake lines the right way. Will get some pics up later. Its back in driving form with a new 4" angled lift block from Rough Country. I also added a HD front steering stabilizer from Rough Country to handle some of the front steering, It works great and I can really tell the difference.

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