Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
Has anyone here ever tried or thought about inboarding the rear springs to exact width of the frame on wagoneer with a shackle flip ( obviously boxed the frame)?
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Last edited by Cheapthrills on Sun Jan 08, 2017 9:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Yes. It's a thing that is done with J trucks often and a wagon every once in a while. A brazillion years ago there was a guy with a chop top wagon in NM who inboarded his rear springs and after "revolver" shackles showed what turds they are, he built sliders instead. Slick stuff!
Last edited by REDONE on Sun Jan 08, 2017 9:17 pm, edited 2 times in total.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
Waggies/Cherokees really dont need their rear spring in-boarded. Plenty of space for tires, and they already flex exceptionally well. J-Trucks need it because their rear frames are much wider, so there is very little tire space.
In-boarding on a Waggy/Chero would benefit from a rear sway bar when you are on the street.
Stuka wrote:Waggies/Cherokees really dont need their rear spring in-boarded. Plenty of space for tires, and they already flex exceptionally well. J-Trucks need it because their rear frames are much wider, so there is very little tire space.
In-boarding on a Waggy/Chero would benefit from a rear sway bar when you are on the street.
Hey Stuka, do you remember the guy I'm talking about in NM? He had a choptop wagon (I think it was a cherk, but not positive) painted flat black, and he built that slider system to replace the shackles. It was about a decade ago (or more) on the motherboard. I've tried googling for pics but coming up with nothing. With his screen name I might have better luck.
Revolver shackles had just come out, so nobody knew how much they sucked yet. He was a trooper to try them out first and then let us all know.
EDIT>>> The sliders were tubular, so the spring end could twist as well as slide.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
Stuka wrote:Waggies/Cherokees really dont need their rear spring in-boarded. Plenty of space for tires, and they already flex exceptionally well. J-Trucks need it because their rear frames are much wider, so there is very little tire space.
In-boarding on a Waggy/Chero would benefit from a rear sway bar when you are on the street.
Hey Stuka, do you remember the guy I'm talking about in NM? He had a choptop wagon (I think it was a cherk, but not positive) painted flat black, and he built that slider system to replace the shackles. It was about a decade ago (or more) on the motherboard. I've tried googling for pics but coming up with nothing. With his screen name I might have better luck.
Revolver shackles had just come out, so nobody knew how much they sucked yet. He was a trooper to try them out first and then let us all know.
EDIT>>> The sliders were tubular, so the spring end could twist as well as slide.
I do recall that Jeep, cannot recall the username. It was a neat setup. Its used a lot more by the taco guys as they have lighter vehicles. Then they put pivot points between the spring and axle, so the spring does not twist as the axle moves.
No idea. I never saw it in person, but I know that if you need a 1000+RTI (which is what you'd be approaching with inboarded springs since a stock wagon is pretty close to 600 on a standard 20* ramp) noise probably isn't on the list of concerns. Body roll would be much more of a problem.
I'm not real clear on what your end goal is, but the shackle flip is the most common match for front SOA for a reason. Time and the experience of others had shown that more flex doesn't usually net a benefit for FSJs. Articulation keeps wheels on the ground for traction, but with rigs as big and heavy as ours it doesn't matter if tires are touching if there's no weight on it to make it hook up. Best to keep power to the wheels with traction with lockers or LSDs.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
I mounted mine under the frame. There was definately more body roll but half of it i would attribute to the added 6" or so of height.. Stiffened it up a bit by cutting eyes off a second set of mainleafs and installing. For a wheeler and occasional grocery getter it don't bother me a bit. For a dd or family wagon i would advise against inboarding.
68 Gladiator- RIP
78 Wagoneer- 401, D60/70, 203/205, 38's, Dual PS pump, Hydroboost, OBA, OBW, bla bla bla.
If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything.
Well I have a dd wag and a builder wag... I'm basically brainstorming and picking the wagoneer veterans brains for the builder that I want to beat up. My goal for the builder is 351w since the 360 seems be sick (very sick) and I don't want to waste my time with it. Build the 44s over time and 37s. I already have the spring over kit and full cross over kit . And I was thinking bout 63" leaf springs but don't want the hang ups so I'm looking at alternative ways of achieving flex.
Not sure i'd inboard 63's. They're plenty soft and long to start with and inboarding would only amplify that. I would not hesitate to inboard again with the stock 57". Only thing i'd do different is add another couple inches to the wheelbase. I think i'm 2" over stock and it's cutting it close to the door side with stuffed 38's. With 37's may be good. Keep in mind, the further back the axle the more inner fender cutting there is. The stockers ride nice and flat with the extra mainleaf and a full cage, yet still flex good enough. Don't get me wrong though...there is still bodyroll but it's acceptable to me in my rig. 2014 pics for reference.
68 Gladiator- RIP
78 Wagoneer- 401, D60/70, 203/205, 38's, Dual PS pump, Hydroboost, OBA, OBW, bla bla bla.
If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything.
Like I said I don't want to do 63s unless I was running a bigger tire... and I don't think I want any bigger. Specially with being stuck with 44s front and rear for now, I know I know ... I'm pushing my luck. Lol.
Your rig looks pretty good with that stance.
this is the one I'm thinking about building since it's already got buddy damage and a tweaked frame. this one has 4" lift that has the flex of a brick. It's in better shape then the blue one so thinking it will be dd. Still needs suspension tuning though pretty rough ride.