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I've seen several swaps to different chassis for the j trucks... I would like to use a Jku that I currently have. I can't see where anyone has tried but at a glance it looks like a good fit. The wheel base is within an inch in width and length. I'd imagine that the truck would have a narrower frame so mounts would be fabbed.... any experience with a jk frame/chassis? Anyone know why it wouldn't work?
I have tons of JK experience, having owned a 2dr for 9 years, a new 4dr for, well, 2 days. And I also have my J10.
The wheelbase IS different. A JKU is 116", and a short box J10 is 119". But, JK frames are very easy to length as the center is straight. AEV does this for the double cab Brute conversions. If you just wanted to push out the wheel base, this is not hard either. I know two guys that have pushed their rear axle back a few inches, its not too hard.
The front is where things would get interesting. Frame shapes are quite a bit different, and the JK frame up front is a decent amount narrower as I recall. But thats easy to make up with mounts.
Not knocking it, but it seems kinda backwards to me. Typically it's the sheet metal that melts away from J-trucks, not the chassis. I would expect there to be many more rolling chassis out there than extra bodies. This is certainly the case with CJs, where good chassis way outnumber the available clean bodies ... thus the existence of the MD Juan body kits, and repop fiberglass bodies. The number of existing J-trucks is way lower than CJs, so the availability of chassis may not seem so obvious... except for the number of J-trucks with home-brew flat beds.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I think its a great idea and you get a much better suspension in the process. I was considering it also and my only regret would be using the JK axles as the originals are heavier. The JK frame and Suspension with the heavier axles would be ideal-IMO..
You can buy weld on brackets for other axles for use on a JK. The rear JK axle is quite strong, especially a Rubicon (8.9" ring gear, D60 pinion size, 32 spline shafts). But the front is definitely weaker on the axle tube front, but has a larger ring gear and is high pinion. Sleeping the axles fixes that.
Interesting thoughts here. I've been bench racing the idea of a TJ unlimited or jk frame swap under my 67 commando. If I were doing a J-truck and just wanted a more modern running gear and comfy suspension, I'd probably just build the J-truck on its frame. Sell the JK and buy long arms/coil overs and drop in a 5.3/6.0. my commando has a very narrow frame so for it, a full swap makes sense. I think.
Ok... I guess I should give an idea as to my finalized plan. I'd like the updated suspension for a 85 mph highway ride of a trip to the trails. The Jk hits the sweet spot for ride even when lifted with 37's. I'd like the same out of the truck. It's my first fsj so I was looking for the hang-ups that folks have when doing these type swaps. Here is my plan... I have a gen v 5.3 with an 8 speed transmission waiting for an install. I have the grandma JKU 2wd that's super clean waiting to donate the chassis... I want it to look old school but function new...something that functions as good as it looks. My last project turned out pretty good... looking for the next one. My son wants us to build a j truck so he can drive it when he's 16.